My upright freezer won't self defrost. Frost builds up right awa

I couldn't find any info on your freezer but there are 2 main ways units defrost. The first is manual defrost where you have to unplug the unit to defrost it yourself. These unit are typically chest freezers and upright freezers that have no fan and the refrigerant runs through the shelves. You can tell because frost will mainly build up on the shelves themselves. The second is self defrost. These units will have a fan in the freezer and a evaporator coil behind a wall inside the freezer. This wall is usually inside the freezer on the back wall. These units have a heater that is activated by a timer and comes on every 8 hours or so and will heat the coil for 20 to 30 minutes. This removes all the frost build up on the coil and you should never have to do anything. I hope this helps.

Frost build up usually indicates an air leak - check your door seals and any part of the door for gaps. Also make sure the unit does not need to perform a defrost cycle.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater. To determine if the defrost heater is burned out, watch this part testing video

there is an element in there for self-defrosting, if you have a self-defrosting model. It heats up like an oven element ( not nearly as hot) to get rid of frost build up.

they can be defrosted by using a blow dryer on the evaporator coil.or most common way is to remove all the product in the freezer and turn the unit off and leave the door open. most units have a defrost heater and they self defrost but if you are building up frost then you may need to check the continuity on the heating element and replace if need to. or check and make sure the defrost timer is working properly

Either you have a leaking door gasket,The freezer door is being held open,or the defrost time clock is not turning

If this is a self defrosting model make sure that you don't have frost build up on the back wall of the freezer causing the air not to circulate like it should. If you do have frost build up other items will eventually start thawing as well. If this is the case you have a defrost problem.

If this is not a self defrosting model then make sure it does not need defrosting.

You normally will notice ice cream being soft before you notice other things thawing.

Also make sure the door is shutting good and you may try putting the ice cream in a different location.

HI,

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

• Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”



• Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

• The compressor



• The Thermostat



• The overload, relay, or capacitor



• The defrost timer



• The condenser fan motor

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

HI, It is a big job to recharge a unit. If it need recharged, it means there is a leak. Do you have any cooling at all? If this a self defrosting freezer? If it is self defrosting, make sure there isn't any frost building up on the evaporator panel.

Vic

Defected DEFROST HEATER can cause frost build up on the panel at the back of the freezer,and freezer stop cooling and ice frozen on unit so air could not flow to refrigerator side.Water will coming out caused of unbalanced freezing,and causing the flooding of water in the floor. You must change this defroster heater assembly so it will works normal again..


Hope this may help;

Regards,
VOTIT