Most of the time it's a compressor relay that does this. Your model will most likely have one. Get your model number and check the internet and see if your model has one. They are usually a small black plastic device attached directly to the compressor terminals and take up two of the three terminals. This is under the black plastic cover that is held on by a metal piece or wire, right on the compressor itself. Usually they're only about 10-20 bucks so it my be worth a shot.
SOURCE: Emerson Quiet Kool 6GC53 Air Conditioner
Chesapeake, given your symptoms you'll be looking at installing a new Selector Switch. But, before you go there... UNPLUG THE UNIT OR SHUT OFF THE BREAKER!!! Your selector switch does two things at a time, It energizes the fan motor (which it IS doing) and energizes the compressor at the same time. The voltage to your compressor goes from the wall into the selector, out of the selector, through the temp control then to the compressor. When the temp control is satisfied, it interrupts power to the compressor. The click you hear is the temp control being NOT satisfied and trying to send power to the comp. But if there is "no power" to send (i.e., the selector switch has failed)the compressor won't know to engage. Remove the front panel and filter. Remove the control box housing. Remove the knobs from the controls. You will now see the selector switch. Remove the 2 screws that fasten it (don't remove the wire yet!) and install the new switch. Then, one wire at a time, remove the wires from the old switch and install them on the new one. ***If you have an OHM meter, check the temp control before ordering a selector because this may be the problem and NOT the selector! To do this... remove the 2 wires from the temp control, set the control to "coldest". Then with your meter, test OHM's between the terminals. If you see "zero" OHM's, it's good. If you see no change in your meter, it's bad and THIS is the source of your problem. If you don't have a meter... you can test using this procedure... cut a 6" length of wire and strip the ends to about 3/8", twist the copper ends tightly. Remove both wires from the temp control, then insert one end of your jumper wire into one terminal and the other end into the other terminal. Make sure the "jumpered" wires are away from anything metal!!! And plug the unit back in. Now turn the unit on. If the unit fires up? It's the temp control, If not? it's the selector switch. Here's a link for parts...http://www.repairclinic.com/0080.asp
SOURCE: True Refrigeration GDM-26 Compressor problem?
More than likely you need a new compressor. It sounds like it's trying to start and then trips on it's overload or capacitor may be out.
SOURCE: TRUE COOLER COMPRESSOR CYCLES ON 45 SECONDS AND OFF FOR 2 MIN.
The unit has a temperature swing adjustment screw located behind the thermostat plate.If you remove the knob and the face plate you will see it,It can be adjusted there.It may also be the thermostat bulb is going bad or touching something and giving a false signal to the compressor.
SOURCE: We have a true T49F freezer and the evaporator
Freezers have a sensor that is referred to as a "Fan Delay/Defrost Terminator". It senses the temp during the defrost cycle. Usually, when the evap temp reaches about 50 degrees, there should not be any frost or ice on it. This device terminates the defrost cycle. It also keeps the fans off so warm air is not circulated. When the evap gets to about 20 degress or so, the sensor switches on the evap fans. If the fans are not coming on, either the sensor is bad or the evap is not reaching the proper temp to cause the sensor to turn on the fans.
Hope is helps to clear up some things and point you in a direction as to what might be going on.
SOURCE: compressor won't kick on
This usually means that the capacitor is bad and needs to be replaced, it is a small round device that is either near the compressor or in the control panel area, on the side of it, it will tell you the "MFD" rating and the voltage, and that is the two numbers that you need to match. Be carefull, with the old capacitor, if it is shorted it can hold a electrical charge, even with no power to it, and can zap you, not fun :)
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Sincerely,
Paul
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