Our door keeps getting stuck then you can't get out of the shower....the bottom steel rails keep coming loose. This is the 4th time in 2 months... what is the solution?

Hello Colin;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

Push in the top and bottom trays. Close the door. Now, open the door. Are either the top or bottom trays pushed out?

In the bottom center is your water distribution vanes. Are they stuck up in the operating mode? Push the center water distribution vane down, push the top and bottom trays in, close the door and reopen. Are the upper or bottom tray sticking out? inspect the guide rails. Is there something blocking them?

So, your problem is:
1.) The trays are pushing against the door because they will not go in all of the way.
2.) You have a broken latch assembly.

You did not provide a model number. This is on a tag either on the top of the door or on the face of your dishwasher after you open the door.

The installation guide is here:
http://www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/catalog/pdf/en/1201264_2.pdf

and bottom of this page you can call or send message:
http://www.us.kohler.com/us/Levity-sliding-shower-door,-74-H-x-56-5-8---59-5-8-W,-with-1-4-Frosted-glass-and-towel-bars/productDetail/Sliding-Shower-Doors/914746.htm

Loctite sounds the order of the day. Don't overtighten once the thread lock is in place and allow to cure before using machine.

Hi

You did not mention any additional information about your problem except replacing shower door.However use basic hand tools to complete the job.

Try this following general steps :-
1. Remove the doors by lifting up on one door at a time and then pulling each out. The top of the door has rollers attached to it, and the rollers rest on the inside of the top rail of the frame. Set the doors aside.
2. With your drill, remove the two screws on each end of the top rail, located on the inside of the shower frame. Then lift off the top rail of the shower frame.
3. Use your box knife to cut the caulk on the side and bottom rails of the shower frame. Shower frames are caulked on the outside where they meet with the walls and floor of the shower.
4. Use your drill to remove the screws from the side rails. There will be two screws on each rail, securing it to the shower stall. Then, take the rails out. Remove the screws from the bottom rail and take it out.
5. Use your tape measure to measure the old side rails, top rail and bottom rail. With a pencil, mark the lengths on each new rail. Use your hacksaw to cut each rail. Hold a side rail in the exact location where the old rail was located. With your pencil, mark the screw holes on the shower wall. The new shower frame screw holes may not line up with the old shower frame screw holes. Use your drill and 3/16-inch drill bit to drill new holes if necessary. If the shower walls are ceramic, use the concrete drill bit. If the shower walls are fiberglass, use the multipurpose 3/16-inch drill bit.
6. Insert the 3/16-inch anchors into the holes that you drilled. Put the side rail into position and insert the screws into the holes. Use your drill and Phillips head drill bit to tighten the screws. Place the bottom rail into position and mark the holes. Drill new holes if necessary and install the anchors. Insert only one screw at the end where you installed the first side rail. Lift up the loose end of the bottom rail and slide the second side rail into place. Mark the holes. Remove the side rail and drill the new holes using the 3/16-inch drill bit. Insert the anchors and put the side rail back into place. Insert the screws and tighten with your drill using the Phillips head drill bit.
7. Set the top rail directly onto the side rails. In each end of the top rail, insert the two self-drilling screws until the top is secured to the sides. Insert the tube of clear caulk into the caulking gun. Cut the end off of the tube with your box knife. Caulk the side rails and the bottom rail to the shower walls on the outside of the shower. Re-hang the shower doors by lifting each door and placing the rollers on the inside of the top rail.
Also giving you some links from where you can find a detailed information regarding replacing shower doors.
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-replace-a-shower-door/index.html
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,214441,00.html
Thanks for contacting fixya.com
Please do get back to us for further query.

Ace Hardware sells that door and you will need to see if they can order the parts but it looka like they sell the doors 36" size so when you order you will need to order for the Sterling Plumbing 1500D-36S "Vista Pivot" Shower Door Fits Openings 31 -1/4" To 36" H 66" . Now if you have not completely finished the shower you could always make the door opening fit what you have.

I have the same problem. I'm doing research today, I'll keep you posted. unless you already figured out where to get the seal, please let me know.

if your consoles out of warranty open up the disc drive and on the bottom there is 2 screws that the laser rails rest on. as the console vibrates they can come loose over time so most likely one or both have come slightly loose. give them a quarter turn to tighten them a little then test the drive with a game. keep doing little adjustments till the game reads. this worked for me on all consoles i seen with the open tray msg. give the laser a clean too while its apart. always helps :D

Mark, I'm having different problems with the same door. Try "filing" down the ends of the bottom rail, where it is contacting the curved corners. You might have to buy a metal file to accomplish this. Go heavy on the adhesive caulk on the underside of the bottom rail. Make sure the shower base is clean and dry. You might have to push down with your arms for several minutes to get the adhesive caulk to stick. Good luck, I have to go back to my folks this afternoon, because I can't get the door panel in w/o it scraping the top rail. Ugh.