Fridge/freezer freezing up-and no fanor air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.?
AT TIMES The fan usually stops workingAND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELLdue to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check thedefrost timer,The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator.Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engageurdefrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providingurterminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Placeurmeter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Takeurmeter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Nowur1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u knowurtimer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is theheating elementitself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check thecold control thermostatwith a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEMand THERMISTORSAt times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being putout. In most models around 1300( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmdsBkO46dk defrost therm.
SOURCE: fan running constantly in the house
Check t-stat and make sure fan is set to "Auto", that might be why fan is running all the time, or it could be a fan relay that is stuck closed. It sounds like you A/C is over charged or you have a bad high pressure switch, this was a common problem with this manufacture especially in the heat mode.
Check the compressor and the relay. Make sure they are working when you turn on freezer and fridge to the max. If the compressor does not start then you need a new relay. If the compressor starts then it is your thermostat that has gone bad and must be replaced. you can find the parts on repairclinic.com and order them with instructions on how to remove the bad part and install the new part
SOURCE: refrigerator not cold, freezer not freezing.
the compressor is probably not running. most always it is the compressor relay 90% of the time. it is the plastic looking device that the wires are attached to on the compressor. this should be under a plastic cover attached to the compressor.
SOURCE: My 61ar marvel is freezing even with thermostat on
There are two main causes for this symtom...
Bad temperature control or low freon condition.
A low freon condition is caused by a leak and evidenced by heavy ice build-up on the left side of the evaporator plate and no to very little ice on the right side. This has to be repaired by fixing the leak and replacing the lost freon.
There are two different control systems used on the 61AR...before 2000 it was an electric-mechanical thermostat that had a sensing bulb exiting the back and routed to the top center of the evpaorator plate to sense plate temperaure. The part number for replacement is 42240590
The second control consists of three parts, a control board (SSAC Control), thermsitor and potentiometer. The most common failure is the thermsitor which senses temperature at the evaporator plate and reports it to the control board by varing it's resistance. You can buy a replacement kit that has all three parts or just the thermsitor from the factory by calling 800-223-3900. Write me a reply note if you need futher troubleshooting help. The thermsitor part number is 42244531 and comes with replacement instructions.
SOURCE: Freezes up
Hi!!
That sounds about right!! Make sure the thermostat's sensing tip is free of dirt and almost touching the evaporator coil.
Don't forget to rate this post!! Good Luck!!
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