ELECTRICDryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Checkyour venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuityit should showOHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defectiveor has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.
The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter(VOM)set to the RX1 scaleat 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200)ohms.If the reading is higherohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,OR?you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposedto be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to createafire but ifthe motor is not running,andthe heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
In somedryer'sthecontrol panel relies on athermistorrather than aCYCLING thermostatto regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when thethermistorindicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drumthis is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)
Lastly check your moister sensor.( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shutdown early and clothesare still wet.
Test with a meterat room temperatureand it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run timein the automatic moisture sensing cyclebut it will not affect the heatingof the dryer or the timed cycle.Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g
http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMP7BW1lLs4
SOURCE: Dryer heats up but isn't drying properly
yes it does something is blocking your vent either its all coiled up behind the drier or something i need to ask a few questions go out side and look at where your drier vent has a hood make sure nothing is blocking it from opening it has a little round door on it ive seen some that have little plastic screens on them that gets clogged the screen is there to keep critters from building nests in the vent line then get a flash light and look over the back to see if the vents folded over mashed etc to find out if its a vent problem take your vent loose dry a load and see if it goes back to normal if all that's ok get back to me and we will clean the drier i need to know if your lint screen is on top or in door and your model #
SOURCE: Maytag dryer doesn't dry properly
heating element is fine. it either works or it doesnt, cant work halfway, your problem sounds like you hav a clogged vent a kinked exhaust leaving the home. try looking at the exit point form the home can you see any lint around the housing, VENT VENT VENT
SOURCE: dryer heats up but does not dry clothes
first take the venting off the back of the dryer and dry a load if dryes normal replace venting if takes a long time to dry have a repair man clean the dryer
SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel dryer not drying
I've had this problem for 3+ years. There are possibly multiple reasons why your dryer trips the reset switch. My dryer has a design issue with the lint trap, in that it allows lint to build up around what I assume is the heat sensor / thermal switch. It's simple, the temperature is detected as too high in the dryer and trips the switch which cuts power to the heating element. The reset switch access as mentioned in other posts requires either tipping the dryer back or removing the front panel, at least partially, to access the switch. After the reset switch is pushed, you'll need to check if there's lint built up that's causing the reset issue. First, find the reset switch.
To access the switch, there are 4 Phillips head screws that need to be removed. For the first 2, lift the dryer lid and you'll see two half-moon shaped rubber inserts at each of the front corners of the machine. The inserts can be pulled out with your fingers or use a screwdriver, gently. There is 1 screw under each insert that needs to be removed. Once those screws are out, you can put the lid down and lift the plastic top of the dryer that the lid normally rests on. It's attached on the back of the dryer so don't worry, it won't come off...it will lift just like the dryer lid. Be careful of the sharp sheet metal edges. Now there are 2 smaller screws, 1 at each front corner, that attach the sheet metal pieces. Remove each of those screws. To get the front off requires a bit of finesse. You'll see that the front sheet metal panel of the dryer has bends in it to attach it to the sides of the dryer. Gently pull at the top corners, one at a time, to separate the front panel from the rest of the dryer. You'll see that there are u-shaped orange or red plastic pieces inserted into the sheet metal sides that align with holes in the front panel to hold the skin of the dryer together...the front should just pull away from those u-shaped pieces. There is a wire with a clip attached to the bottom of the front panel, probably a ground wire...if it pulls off when you remove the front panel, just reattach it when you put everything back together. The front sheet metal is also integral to the front feet of the dryer, so tilt the top of the front panel toward you and lift. The front panel should pull away. When you put the front back on the dryer, do it feet first by aligning the plastic foot pieces, then align the u-shaped side pieces, then worry about the top corners wrapping back around so the front fits flush.
The reset switch is in front at the bottom right of center and is probably orange. Just push it and you'll hear it click. I would vacuum out the lower part of the dryer at the point, but it's probably not what's causing your problem. I've gotten to the point where I use a yard stick or vacuum extension to push the switch without completely removing the front panel. Then I don't have to detach / reattach the ground wire. You'll see after you do it 3 or 4 times!
Now check to see if lint build up is causing your thermal switch to trip. Pull out the lint trap and you'll see 1 Phillips head screw behind where the lint trap normally sits. Remove the screw, and you'll feel the circular plastic piece the lint trap sits in become loose...pull this round piece out of the dryer from the bottom. If there is a lot of lint behind this circular plastic piece, that's probably what's tripping the heat sensor. Vac it out. Gently feel around the circumference of where you removed the piece to see if the fine mesh lint screen has any holes (if it does, it may be blowing lint into your exhaust and eventually clog the vent to the outside). If the mesh is torn, I assume that larger circular piece needs to be replaced at some point in whole or part. From what I can see, the design of the lint filter and trap is ....****. The system allows lint to enter the area where the heat sensor sits.
The short term fix is to vac out the sensor area regularly and that will keep the switch from tripping, if that is your actual problem. I believe F&P is aware of this issue and will probably remedy it for you. I called them once when this issue originally happened and had to wait for a tech to come out do what I described above. I haven't called them since, but have seen other posts regarding a new part or parts that F&P will provide...hopefully free! Good luck!
SOURCE: LG TROMM Front Load Dryer / Not drying clothes
check the vent or condensor depending on what type of dryer.
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