I am working on a Kenmore Series 80 Washer, a 1986 model. I have removed all of the bolts holding the gearcase and removed the agitator but the shaft won't come out of the washer.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

The model number you provided doesn't appear on the Sears site. Are you sure it's the right number??

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Pulling the cabinet, pump, motor and gearcase are relatively easy. Getting the 8 bolts off of the gearcase and removing the top can get a bit messy as the gearcase holds 15 Oz. of gear oil. (Easily replaced with non-detergent gear oil from a local auto parts shop.

This is a Whirlpool / kenmore Serviced Manual PDF for top load, direct drive washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.


See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum. See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnectYing power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), and remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil.

You should be able to either re-seat the cover or make a thin gasket using automotive "liquid gasket seal" products.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

As far as the agitator spinning during the spin cycle:

It's not supposed to. It may spin simply because of the oil in the gearcase turning the agitator shaft but it shouldn't be driven by the gearcase. See the following Whirlpool Service Manual on how the transmission / gearcase works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

What should happen is:

When the washer goes into spin mode, the gearcase reverses direction moving two plastic cams (Agitate Cams) together which push up against a spring which lifts the agitate shaft away from the agitate gear.

If the agitate cams (about $12.00) are worn (not necessarily broken) they may not lift the shaft high enough (about 1/8") so that the agitator will spin along with the drum.

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their Commercial washers, although the consumer models use the same transmission.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

If you suspect the agitate cams:

It's a bit messy to fix (16 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

See the following for how to remove the transmission.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

And the Whirlpool Parts list for these washers:

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

It sounds as if the Gearcase Cover Seal may be worn and is allowing transmission oil to work it's way up the main agitator shaft.

I'd pull the motor and transmission to check for leaking and probably check all of the seals on the gearcase and drive tube.

(IT SOUNDS LIKE A REAL PAIN BUT ISN'T.) THE PARTS TO REPAIR ANY SEALS ARE INEXPENSIVE.:

For example, the above part number 3349985 is $9.09 at Sears and is a basic Whirlpool part.

See the following for how to release the console and cabinet and how to pull the pump, motor, gearcase and drive tube.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=142

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Check all the seals and replace as necessary.

Also see the following Whirlpool document on the transmission.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Overall, its a lot less expensive to replace a couple of seals than to replace a $170 gearcase.

Obviously the washer should be either just spinning or agitating. The transmission ,or in this style washer it is called the gearcase, is bad and would need to be replaced. The gearcase controls the spin and the agitate in this washer. The part number is 3360629 and retails for $172.77. To replace; Unplug washer, remove the 2 trim pieces on either side of the console, remove the 2 screws under the trim, lift the console and rotate to the back, remove the 2 retainers going from the back into the cabinet, remove the cabinet, remove the drain pump, remove the motor, remove the agitator, remove the gearcase with 3 bolts holding it on. The gearcase will now slide out of the washer. Transfer the clutch and motor mounting plate to the new gearcase and reassemble in the reverse order.
Thank you

Hi, Remove the cap on the agitator and then remove the inside cover. There is a 7/16" bolt under the inside cover. Remove the bolt and the agitator will lift out. Seperate the 2 pieces of the agitator and replace the dogs. You might have to use a flat blade screw drive and punch out the 4 tabs around the bolt hole in the agitator if this applies.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

Check the agitator by turning it back and forth. It should work like a ratchet (turns one way, locks the other way).If you're able to turn it in both directions, the agitator dogs are worn and need to be replaced.
Remove the agitator cap and the bolt that holds down the agitator. With the bolt out you can remove the top section of the agitator (auger) where you should see 4 small white or beige plastic gears (dogs). Replace those and it should be ok.

Part number is 80040

Let me know if you need more help.
Good luck!

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Inspect both halves of the coupling for signs of wear. Replace if necessary (part #285753A).

10. Uninstall the motor mounting plate from the gearcase by removing the two bolts.

11. Remove the agitator by removing the center cap. Locate the center nut under the cap and loosen with a socket and ratchet. Lift both portions of the agitator straight up, exposing the gearcase center shaft. Remove the agitator clip and agitator washer from the shaft. NOTE: If there is a recessed square slot under the agitator cap, use a 3/8 inch to ½ inch socket adapter with extender to remove.

12. Now take the washer and lean it backwards so that you have full access to underside of the washer. Loosen the three bolts holding the gearcase in place. When you get the last bolt, loosen slowly as the gearcase will begin to drop from under the washer. Slide the entire gearcase and shaft out of the washer.

13. Remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip. Do not forget to retain the washer that is under the clutch.

14. Inspect new gearcase assembly. Open the breather hole (covered by a dab of paint) using an awl or similar tool. Install washer on gearcase shaft and install clutch and brake assembly. Slide gearcase shaft up through the agitator shaft from under the washer. Hold in place and get one bolt started. Insert remaining bolts and tighten them all evenly.

15. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.

16. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

17. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

18. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

19. Re-install agitator washer and retaining clip on the gearcase drive shaft and then re-install agitator. NOTE: DO NOT over-tighten center nut. You can crack or break the agitator.

20. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

21. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

22. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

23. Reinstall console.

It seems like a rather lengthy process, but it is a simple repair if you follow the instructions step-by-step. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information helpful.

NOTE: Under Line Item 10. - after you remove the motor mounting plate, make sure you disconnect the wiring harness from the the gearcase housing if it is mounted to it. Otherwise, you may damage the harness when you remove the gearcase assembly. Make sure you re-install the wiring harness in the fashion when repairs are completed.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

time to look for a new washer, this is a gearcase problem, or cluth. Not easy to fix , unless know how.

Check out this you tube. Had the same problem today. Tipped washer on its side and replaced coupler between motor and gearbox. Parts are about $15
This is a good diagnosis video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYOP0_KCYT0