Ice maker in Maytag French Door not working

Hi and welcome to FixYa I am Kelly.

A new filter can take several cycles of the ice maker to fill the filter up with water before. The average filter is around 30 oz and the average ice maker fill cycle is 3.2 oz. The new filter did not have any water in it. The water in the door has a resercoir so the air in the filter will still make the water work until you get air. Drain abour 3 tall glasses from the water in door. The ice maker should then work properly. The filter filters water for water in door (inside) and the ice maker so if you have water inside the door you should have ice UNLESS one of the inlet water valve solenoids has failed. Also make sure the Freezer door / light switch functions properly. The door switch is supposed to stop water and ice functions with the door open.

I would like to know if it starts making ice.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
Often when ice makers slow production or stop making ice it is because the freezer compartmet\nt has warmed up above 17 Def F and the ice maker thermostat will not cycle to start the ice harvest cycle.

In the back of your unit you will have an inlet water valve assembly that will look similar to this one:

Water Dispenser Not Working Check the water supply to the water inlet valve. Check the water filter. ( if applicable)
Check the water inlet valve
Make sure the Temperatures in the Fresh? food section and the freezer sections are normal. 33 to 42 in the Fresh Food section and 0 to 10 in the freezer. Or check that the controls, both the fresh food and freezer section controls are set on the "normal" settings. If the controls are set too cold it will cause the water? tank or tubing to freeze.
Dispenser switch not? working, check for continuity

Dual Water Valve

One side of this valve does the water in the door, the other the water for the ice maker


Disregard any reference to water in door if your unit does not have that capability and there will only be ONE solenoid on the inlet water valve assembly.
If the solenoid coil fails it will not open the water source to supply water to the ice maker. This solenoid is only energized for 8 to 10 seconds as the ice maker sweep fingers (Called ejector blades in the manual) reach the 10 - 11 o'clock position during the harvest cycle. All you will hear is a minor buzz and maybe a minor thump of the plastic water line but the ice maker fills during the last 40 % of the harvest cycle.

Here is a manual you can use for troubleshooting:
Kitchenaid-Estate%20Appliances/Refrigerator/In%20Door%20Ice%20Manual%20with%20Diagram.pdf">http://www.affordableappliance.com/Download%20Folder/Whirlpool-Roper-Kitchenaid-Estate%20Appliances/Refrigerator/In%20Door%20Ice%20Manual%20with%20Diagram.pdf

Note the requirements to test the ice maker using the manual above are:
Door light switch plunger depressed (Taped down) and the freezer temp from 0 - 10 deg F.
You will need to make a jumper wire to jumper terminals T to H inside the ice maker front cover to start the ice maker test. If it cycles with the jumper the thermostat is good. If it does not cycle then either the thermostat has failed or... there is no power coming from the door light switch. (Bad door switch)

If all of the system tests pass and you still do not have water.... suspect the inlet water valve (pictured above) or the water supply as the source of the problem.

More often than not.... the real problem turns out to be ice build up on the evaporator coils due to an automatic defrosting problem. Should you discover a build up of ice on your evaporator coils do a MANUAL defrost session by unplugging the unit and directing a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess so be ready!) After the manual defrosting return the unit to normal service. You should have ice again within 12 hours. Keep an eye on the evaporator coils for the next 5 days because if you do have an automatic defrosting problem the symptom WILL return in a matter of 2 - 4 days. If the ice block returns.... have the automatic defrosting problem corrected to keep your ice maker working normally.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

On typical ice makers that signal comes from within the ice maker. It sends a signal from the ice makers thermostat and the ice maker begins to pre-heat the ice cube slots and the ice rake begins turning to push the ice out of the slot's and into the ice bin. The last function is to refill the water with a signal to the dual water control valve that last about 7.5 seconds. Once the ice maker senses the water is frozen again it begins this cycle again. Here is a refrigerator parts PDF for your model=> MFI2568AEW and on page 10 you will see part=> 627985 Pin Style Icemaker Thermostat
Adhesive - Alumilastic (Cement)
That is just silicone rubber you can also get locally. If you have any other questions please let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Y13068002 or Repair Clinic 1266731 Ice Maker Assembly

Good day,
The easiest way is to follow a step by step procedure to get the ice maker up and running. Be aware, the freezer must be running at 15 degrees or colder otherwise the ice maker will lock out on it's own.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

1.Bad water valve located in the back bottom of refrigerator.
2. Frozen fill tube going into back of ice maker. (common problem)
3. Ice maker not cycling. Pour water into ice maker cavity until near filled.
Wait a few hours and see if it dumps.
4.In rare cases, the switch in the ice maker body fails. Ice maker will cycle but not tell water valve to refill.

For starters, the freezer temp must be a least 14 degrees or colder. Ice maker locks out above 14 degrees.
So.
1. The water valve on the bottom back of the fridge has failed (common problem).
2. Water supply from source to the water valve isn't supplying water or enough water pressure (common problem).
3. Fill tube that fills the back of the ice maker is iced up. If thats the case, you will need to defost it slowly USING NO HEAT. Heat will melt components and leave you with a real mess. If this is the case, you'll still have to replace the water valve because it is leaking slowly during the of cycle.
4. The ice maker failed. You can test to see if it will cycle, by pouring water into the cavity, and checking it in a few hours to see if it dumps. Be aware there is a switch in the ice maker which tells the water valve to fill. If that's the problem, you'll still need to replace the ice maker and installing a new valve at the same time is the smart way to go.

Make sure the IM is in the ON position and free to move. Check the water supply from the valve to the IM for obstructions(Ice in fill tube). When the IM cycles there should be a buzz/humm for 45 seconds when it is calling for water. The valves are not expensive but you want to be sure that is the problem befor you purchase.
Eric

About every two hours you should hear the ice maker cycle. The easiest way to check is to turn the ice maker off using the arm up in the off position. After a few hours open the door lower the arm and observe. The plastic fingers should advance ejecting the ice into the tub. A few swconds after the ejection you can hear the valve and should hear the water fill the tray. If no advance with the ice maker than ice maker,warm temperature, or wiring. If no solenoid sound (ice maker ejector rotates)than electrical or solenoid valve. Solenoid valve and no water - frozen fill hose, blocked hose or unlikely but possible faulty solenoid valve. If you can hear the valve it should pass water!!

If the ice maker doesent cycle CK the temp of the freezer! Must be cold enough for ice maker to work. zero or colder will work for sure and 0 or so is the right temp for freezer. Above 20 don't think it will cycle and would be an indication low freon or bad compressor in unit.

1) Electric Water valve check up.
2) Water/Ice dispenser control check up
3) frozen plastic pipe inside door or/and chilled water container frozen
4) old water filter (clogged)

Sounds like a water valve problem to me. Force the ice maker to cycle. (turn it off and let it get cold for at least an hour then turn it back on). Test for voltage on the ice maker side of the valve. The valve is usually in the back near the floor. Just follow the water line. Another solution. switch the wires on the water valve. then try the water dispenser and see if it makes the ice maker fill up. See if when the ice maker cycles water comes out the door. If the ice maker causes water in the door , replace the valve, If door switch causes ice maker to fill up replace ice maker again.