What is the input rating for the bn4400554B power unit

Check the back or the bottom of the Wave unit for the input voltage rating. If it has a universal power supply, it will show something like "Input voltage 97-243 VAC 50-60 Hz," i. e., the input voltage rating spans the full range from 110 VAC US to 240VAC Europe. In that case, all you have to do is get a power cord suitable for the power in your area.

I checked the specification in the on-line owner's manual, but it wasn't helpful; it said the input power rating is "220V-240V
50/60Hz 60W max" We know it works on 120 V, so the 220V in manual may be a typographical error. Go with the information on the unit case. If it says "120 V 60Hz" and nothing about 240 V, then you would need a transformer rated for at least 70 Volt-Amps (60 Watts plus a reserve factor so you don't have to worry about overloading it).

I tried checking my favorite site for electronic products such as travel transformers and adapters (MCM Electronics), but as of this time they were having server problems. Note: they may have the 240 V version of the power cord, or you can check whether Bose sells it separately.

https://www.mcmelectronics.com/

Hi Bart,
You will find there is a specification plate on the rear of the unit.
It should have a rating on it showing the wattage of the unit. This is usually the amount needed to operate all the functions of the boombox.
The wattage is your input voltage multiplied by the current draw in amps. So the amperage is the rated wattage of the unit divided by the input voltage.
Usually all power goes through the transformer, so I would use this input amperage as a guide, and assuming there is no power loss, use the same calculation for the output - you know it is 9 volts, so the wattage going to the unit is the same as the input wattage, so you can calculate the amperage from this.
Transformers usually work on AC input/output, so there will also be a rectifier to convert the AC to DC for your boombox.
I would add 10 - 20% above your calculation to make sure you have sufficient power. Also I suggest that you install a fuse between your transformer and the boombox for safety.

75000 to 85000 btu Or British thermal pound.
Two units of measure are important in sizing an oil furnace. The first is the British Thermal Unit or BTU, which represents the energy needed to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit at normal atmospheric pressure. The input capacity of an oil furnace is often stated using this unit of measure. The second number is the fuel efficiency rating, which is expressed as a percentage. This represents the amount of energy that gets converted to heat, with higher numbers being better. To determine the energy output in BTUs per hour, multiply the input BTU by the efficiency rating. For example, a furnace with 100,000 BTU of input and an efficiency rating of 89 produces 89,000 BTUs of output. One with an efficiency rating of 80 and the same input amount, produces only 80,000 BTUs of output.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/info_12197488_size-oil-furnace-required-1200-square-foot-house.html#ixzz2jfsuqLFx

has fuse but it may have blown transformer

Please look carefully at the unit, the ratings are on the outside of it.

300mA is marginal. On CD start unit draws a little over 400mA for about 1/2 second. At moderate CD audio levels the unit draws right at 300 and at full volume 400mA.
Be certain of the polarity and voltage . On the unit I have the wire with the white stripe is negative. If you are using a non-regulated supply, the voltage could be higher than rated. I am using a 9.5 volt non-regulated supply and after input filtering I have 11.5 volts across the input cap, that is rated @16VDC
A non-regulated 12VDC supply will probably exceed this 16VDC
rating.

Measurements taken with Fluke 23 and Simpson 160

hi..make sure the cable or dvd RCA inputs red,yellow
and white inputs are proper.There may be some loose
connections.
check it out..
thank u..
rate me..

The transformer should have the input and output rating labeled on the unit itself. Such as input 110vac, output ...... dc.

Sounds like you have burnt out something (as you probably already know LOL) but maybe you just over heated some wires that couldn't take the Amperage. If this is the case, you MUST find out:

Why there was so much Amperage there at the time
Why didn't the Fuse blow? (perhaps too high an Amperage fuse for the Unit?) and
Why could your unit not handle the Power? (perhaps not Rated for that Power Output?).

Note: Watts and Amperage are not Musical terms, they are Electrical terms. So an Amplifier Increases the output Current to a maximum level designated in various ways as PMP (common but misleading) RMS (the International Standard) and DIN (the mainly European standard). The receiving unit (in this case your sub woofer is designed to handle a maximum level of Current input and this is usually desribed (again misleadingly) as simply Wattage. The common factor here is that both your Amplifier and Sub woofer are probably using the PMP rating.

If this is the case then you can easily determine if the 2 units are compatible using their "Wattages". For instance, a 275 Watt amplifier is too much at HIGH outputs (volume) for a set of speakers Rated at 160 Watts (they will "blow") but will work fine at Lower volumes because the Amp is putting out less Power at Lower volumes and is therefore probably below the Speakers Maximum input range.

Conversely, it is OK if the speakers are Rated for higher inputs than your Amplifier can put out. For example, a 175 Watt amplifier is fine with speakers Rated for 240 Watts because it can never produce enough power to "blow" the speakers.

Just putting in heavier wires will almost certainly bow up the sub woofer if the initial problem is not solved.

Take it to a HI FI shop and get them to look at it. If they simply say "Can't repair these, buy this one", try another shop.

Sorry about the lecture.

Good luck.

Amps can be rated based on their RMS power or their peak power. In this case, the amp's rated RMS power is 300x2 at 2 ohms (total 600W RMS) with a peak power rating of 600x2 (1200W peak). For the most part, peak power means almost nothing.

If your head unit didn't have RCA preamp outputs, you would used the standard speaker outputs from the head unit and connect them to the hi input plug of the amp.