Roots are coming in to our well where the tiles meet...can we seal from inside the well?

I would have used low power jet wash with pipe cleaning attachment when the toilet was off, I know karcher do a good 1 but there are cheaper alternatives. The last toilet I fitted had a large rubber type seal between the wate outflow pipe and the out pipe of the toilet that fitted over the base of the pipe. I have never seen a wax type seal as you describe, admittedly I have not changed many toilets, but I would have changed the seals when the tiolet was lifted. Hope this helps

Check out the faucet plate mounted on tub side for a good seal. Water can leak down this plate causing it to look like the valve is leaking.
When you are in the shower it splash's water against the valve and water will run down behind it. Check the tub spout and if you have tile check the chaulked joint where tub and wall meet.

Just make sure that the over flow is tight with gasket in place. And all fitting's tight behind wall goin gto tub overflow. If it is check out out next step

1-This is a common issue that comes up. Make sure that the shower valve plate is sealed and tight to tub wall. Reason why I ask that is when you take a shower water will find a way out, down the plate or if tile at the point of where it meet's tub. And will look totally like it's the overflow every time.

Try a buffing wheel on a side grinder to buff it out. Did they tell you to seal the tile or the grout most tiles are presealed and only the grout needs to be sealed periodically taking care not to get on tile cause it does dull it and takes alot of elbow greese to buff out but the above suggestion should make it a little easier.

HI they just sit on the top with brackets holding from the underside or screwed in from under the top sounds like this was put in the tiled after they arestuck downfwith double sided tape as well some times , if nothing works you could go through the top it breaks like a car windscreen hope this helps

If you live in an older part of Town, You most likely have an older Sewer, 4-6" clay drain tile leaving your house. This Tiles is in 2-4ft clay sections, layed together with concrete and other ("OLD FASHION TECH") You or your neighbor probably have roots in your old clay tiles creating a blockage. The Roots can enter through the cracks between the old joints of the clay tile in search for a great supply of water!!! Your cheapest and best bet is to call a certified roto-rooter company or someone able to use a roto-rooter rental machine. If you need more info, feel free to ask....Joe

There are four golden rules for installing a shower enclosure. The first golden rule is to make sure that the shower tray is level. If it is not, then problems will occur throughout the rest of the installation. Use a good quality spirit level and where possible install a tray that has adjustable legs. There are often problems associated with tiling over upstands as some are thick and difficult to set into the wall. The second golden rule is to install a tray that has a slim tiling up stand which is vertical and an integral part of the tray: This will make the installation easier, quicker and ensure it is totally watertight. Before installing the shower enclosure the third golden rule must be followed. A silicone sealer needs to be applied all the way around the join where the tiles meet the tray: This must be sealed first, to ensure there is no chance of water getting behind the wall channels and then into the walls. This is one of the biggest problems associated with shower installations but is easily solved if the silicon sealer is applied before the enclosure is fitted. The final golden rule is to fit the enclosure to the tiled surface and not on to a plastered wall, tiling up to it afterwards. Having installed the enclosure it is essential to use the same high quality silicone sealer around the outside of the enclosure. Sealing on the inside will cause leaking- not prevent it.