The protect led has turned on and will not allow the amp to work. I've tried re-wiring the whole unit, changed the fuse to a high wattage, I've given it time to cool off in case it was over heating. Ive been using this amp for the past 10 months with no problems other than the occasional over heating when it would turn off. nothing serious. I've placed an older amp on my head unit and speakers and it works, so it's internal I would think, any suggestions would be great, I currently have it almost completely apart trying to figure this out. Thanks, -Jimmy-Dan

no
a fuse is there to protect the circuit and the genset
check why the de-icer is pulling so many amps as the problem may be in that unit
a 10 amp outlet has a maximum current capacity of 10 amps as that is the current allowable from the gen set and wire capacity
even if you had an outlet with 15 amp rating , it would still be blowing fuses as the 16 amps is above the allowable current draw
you would need a 20 amp outlet ( difficult to get unless it is in a house power board and are normally reserved for hot water systems , stoves and other high current usage units and are normally then not outlets but hard wired in to a circuit breaker

First check your fuses, all fuses. Then check to see if it's getting voltage to it, look to see if any of the LEDs are lit up, power, protection (over /under voltage, overload (short)) or none. If the power LED is lit & no others then check your RCAs coming into the amp by replacing them or using a multimeter set to ohms to make sure they are not loosing a connection due to wire breakage inside the casing. Cheap RCA's will easily disconnect inside the plug just from twisting them. If they are good and are not disconnected from the head unit, then check your speakers for damaged coils or loose wires, who knows they may have fallen off? If your amp has more than just power LED lit then you may have a short in your speakers or wiring disconnect the wires to see if the protection LED goes away. if not and it's still lit then repair the amp. If there are no LEDs lit at all, check your remote turn on wire from your head unit to make sure it sends out a 12 volt signal to the amp. You can also jumper a wire from the 12v battery connection over to the remote turn on connection to see if it will power up. If not then check power wires and connections, fuses, Battery , alternator, voltage regulator, etc.. any thing that has to do with your cars electrical system may have fried from the current draw by your amp.

If You Have changed the bulbs to LEDs or higher wattage than standard bulbs then you will need a resistor in line, this will stop the blinking problem, one wire to to the positive (+) & One to the negative (-), couple O bucks on *B*y , If No bulbs have been changed then check your fuses & relays As A simple Fix is often the most missed one, Hope this Helps

If the fuse blows on different trailers then it's all down to the vehicle. You either have incorrect wiring on the vehicle, a short OR the fuse is not of a high enough value to cope with the additional brake lights? You could try removing all the trailer bulbs EXCEPT the brake lights - e.g. if it's trying to power up the indicators too? That would stop the fuse blowing...... OR remove the brake bulbs from the vehicle & see if it operates the trailer without blowing...... Check the total wattage of ALL the brake lamps & see if the fuse is actually of a high enough rating? Be aware though that increasing the value of the fuse could cause damage elsewhere! As a rough guide a 25 watt bulb will pull around 2 amps at 12 volts - so 4 bulbs may pull up to 8 amps & clearly blow a 5 amp fuse! If in doubt take it to an auto electrician...... The wiring needs to be correctly protected!

Your amp could be in protection mode! Sometimes turning up to high or wires touching will put in protection mode! It will have to be unplugged for a day or two to drain all power out of the memory. Leave accessorie/ignition wire hooked up, just not power and ground wiring. It should reset itself.

There are a few things you should check:

Check that you have the correct fuse on your power cable. If it is allowing too much current, the protection feature of the amp will kick in. Similarly if the resistance is too high, there will not be enough current to power the amplifier.

You may also want to check the earth/ground cable to ensure that it has a good connection.

Try increasing the gain slightly on the amplifier (not too much or you will blow something). This will mean that you don't have to turn the head unit volume too high to get a loud output.

Nice amp BTW.

You likely have a speaker with a swollen voice coil. Voice coil becomes hot due to under powered amp being clipped. Voice coils swells and rubbs. shoteing amp output causing amp to go into protect. replace speaker before amp is damaged. The more capacity an amp has wattage rating. the easier it is on speakers. Most speakers are damaged by underpowered amps being clipped rrather that too high of amp reting.

It appears that the amp is going into protect mode. To eliminate external causes, read through the following page. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Amp in Protect Mode - Troubleshooting

If the protection LED lights only after the remote voltage is applied (head unit is switched on), the amplifier likely has shorted output transistors. If the protection LED remains lit without remote voltage applied, the amp may have other problems.

Does the protection LED light with no speaker wires connected to the amp and no RCAs plugged into the amp?

if you change amps and it goes on protection the speakers are blown causing the amp to protect try changing speakers