Unit will not cool - Nostalgia Electrics Helman Group 60 Watts Stand Mixer

If your mixer's motor was built by Hobart; there are thermsiters built in to the stator's windings that can cause this problem. Check the amp draw while it is running. Also if your are over loading the mixer or using the wrong speed,, that will cause an over heating problem. You should be able to get on the ITW Food Equipment Group / Hobart web site(s) and get capacity chart.

Let it completely cool and then start again. It overheated because your speed was set too low for the heaviness of the dough. I have burned up three kitchenaid stand mixers so far making bread. go up one setting at least; if it is straining, go up another.

Hello Salsaenz,

Yes, the carbon brushes go in a certain way. If you notice the brushes have a notche cut out on one side. Take a light and shine it in the machine and you will notice a piece sticking down the notch goes that way. The notch changes from side to side so you will have to do this on both sides. This will put the power/brusches back in the proper way.

Thank you for choosing FixYa and do not hesitate to ask more questions.

either the electrical motor brushes are worn down on the motors commutator and can no longer contact the motors commutator bands,or if its a newer style mixer the triac that controls the speeds on the unit could have opened up and can no longer supply variable or even high speeds

Yes this indeed does sound like you have a problem. There could be a couple different cause of this noise. If your main drive or worm gear has been damaged, it is likely to not run at all or jam up. So i think this is not the problem. There is however a codder pin located inside the transmission gears this can be seen by removing the upper housing of the unit, and then exposing the oil and gears. clear away the oil surrounding the gears, and save this grease for later. After this you should be able to visually see this codder pin AND the gears, rotate the gears while inspecting them and the pin. If the pin is slightly bent or broken this will make the grinding noise that your are talking about, while still operating and driving the unit. part number for the codder pin is 9705444. If however the noise is coming from the motor area this could indicate a worn or faulty motor bearing. This can cause the motor to operate on an angle and can cause a rubbing noise from the cooling fan or the winding of the motor itself rubbing on the mixer housing. Part number for the braket and bearing is 3180526. both are relatively cheap and easy to replace. If you find and fix the problem be sure to inspect or change the oil as this can often have metal chunks and other particles. Hope this Helps

Thanks

Your mixer may still be good, let it cool down and then check it out, If it runs OK then there is no problem. The motor in your mixer probably over heated from trying to mix bread dough which will make any mixer work hard. These mixers will get warm when over worked but unless heavy smoke was coming out and you were getting a burning enamel smell it is probably OK. Let it cool and try it but I suggest you not use it for bread any more.

Its a 325 watt mixer. If you grind or mix dough often you may consider getting something stronger or turn it off every ten minutes or so and let it cool down. We burned a 325 and got the 575 watt "600" series and no problems ever since. I know these things are expensive. The 325 is more mixer than grinder. The attachements fit ANY size mixer but some are not recommended for use in all mixers.
If its quiting see my posts on "doesn't run at sitr" and "Removing the motor cover" To get inside and clean those contacts.

Check the spring pin that locks the motor shaft to the main drive gear in the gear box. You should be able to turn the motor from the back at the cooling fins and watch the shaft spin in the gear, that is if the pin is sheared. That is a common problem. if you plan on keeping this machine for a while, i recomend that you spend a little more on a quality spring pin,

mechanictony-
good luck.

Yes,
DISCONNECT POWER
if you remove the top cover, you will find an overload group with a green and a red button on top, next to the contactor . One is test, the other is reset. On the side of the overload are two thumb wheels, one is auto/ manual, set this to auto, the other is -15%,0, +15%. If you are running very heavy batches and you want to push your motor harder, move it to +15, but it's not recommended. If it was set to manual, when it trips and cools down, it will not reset untill you press the reset button, in auto, once cool you an restart the mixer.

Hi, your mixer was manufactured in 1947. Hobart does not make public their service manuals. It sounds like the diving key is not engaging first gear with the spinning shaft. This is the ticking sound you hear/feel. This could be because of a broken spring in the mechanism that moves this key in and out, or the key itself has become so worn that it will no longer engage the first gear. The unit needs to be opened up to remove all old grease and oil, including the planetary. The condition of the grease in your description of the planetary, is a good indicator of the condition of the grease in the trans. Your unit probably needs an overhaul due to it's advanced age and grease state. Unplug the unit. You can gently remove the two circular metal dust covers underneath the top cover. With a good flashlight you can view the overall quality of the grease and the level of it. In an ideal world the grease should fill the entire cavity and no oil should be visible. Replacement grease should be Shell Darina EP-2 or Chevron ALC EP-2. You'll need 4-14 OZ. tubes of either type to do the job. The Spec. # for your unit is 3943 Look for drawing # PL-985 Once the cover is off the trans., it's relatively easy to get to the diving key once you remove first gear (the large round gear on top). Remove what you need in sequence, and replace in sequence. If you have a digital camera, take lots of dissasembly pics. When you are done, test in all gears by turning the motor cooling fins with your fingers in the normal direction of the motor rotation. Do not plug the unit back in until you've tested all speeds manually. Good luck! ricardok45