I've got a bench grinder with black,Red,an green I found a plug with black,white,an green can these wires be connected together to make it work?thanks for your Time

2 wires are not needed to use they are the wires of an supression capacitor on the switch then there are 2 wires from your power cable and 2 that goes to your motor that 4 you only you have to use you can also connect the 2 wires from the s-capacitor with te wires on the motor together thats is how its also correct, (but best is to remove it because its only for suppression for FM ukw radio signals and everybody has DAB+ and the change to have short-circuit is reduced.

In addition to the black, red, green, and yellow/red wires on the switch, there should also be a white wire or terminal marked WH. The black wire on the switch connects to the incoming black wire (line in or hot) inside the switch box. The red wire on the switch connects to the outgoing black wire (to the load) inside the switch box. The green connects to the bare wires inside the switch box. The yellow/red is not used in a single pole application such as yours. The two white wires inside the switch box are twisted together and _also_ connected to the WH terminal (or white wire) on the switch.

the green wire is the ground wire,there should be a screw or connector for it near the block,it just connects to the frame so the unit is grounded,you should see on the cord a white,black,red and a green ground wire,on the block you should see the white wire connected,the black on another screw and the last one is for the red,if the white is in the middle the black should be on one side and the red on the other,they are color soated,if you say there are red small wires the large red should connect with them just like the black does,as long as you keep the white wires together,the black wires together and the red wires together you'll be fine and ground the green wire to the frame

How many wires did you put back together? If that was only two, just reverse the wires. Also in most cases wires are color coded. Green is always ground. White should be your neutral wire, and red or black (possibly blue or yellow) would be the hot wire. Swapping the blue and yellow (if that's what you have will reverse the direction)

are you sure you have the right plug?wite wires are normaly found only on 120v and 347v systems. but if it realy is 240v then black to black, red to wite and yellow/green to green.

if its 240volt and you have a 3 wire receptacle, (crows foot) and the new stove has 4 wires:i.e. a RED-BLACK-WHITE-GREEN on the oven unit, your red/black are your 2 hot wires white goes to neutral, and Green is safety ground put the WHITE and GREEN together, as long as the receptacle comes DIRECTLY from the Main Panel in the House, they use a 4 wire systen in some locations depending on local codes/any new installs require a 4 wire plug install now per the N.E.C.

Hi again, OK, Well since I don't have a wiring diagram and the colors don't help. I am also going to assume it is 110VAC. The larger wires are probably the run or primary, it you remember which ones were connected it will help with polarizing. ( getting it to run in the right direction as well as the start and primary working together). You can use the two terminal switch but you should use a three wire cord. Use the switch to break the neutral and ground the case. The connections should be as follows: Connection 1, would have one of the primaries and one of the starts to neutral. Connection 2, the other start to the relay. Connection 3, the coil side of the relay to the remaining primary. ( if the relay has two connections on one end and one on the other it would be the single) Connection 4, the 3rd position on the relay to hot. That is how a split phase is wired. You may find a simple wiring diagram on the net if you type split phase motor wiring diagram. Good Luck to you, this should Fixya!

I cleaned all the wiring connectors etc and used a 4-way extension cord with an i/o switch and thermal/arc breaker surge protector thingy. I had a piece of thick cable with a molded three prong plug which I had removed from a dead paper shredder (I think??) and connected the ground to the case (previously not connected) the black to the black and white to the white. I taped the connections and plugged the test cable into the extension thingy with its switch off and plugged it into the wall outlet. Then, with the grinder switch on, I gingerly switched on the extension thingy and the grinder (sans all moving parts) ie just the motor case and spindle (held securely in the B&D workmate) and viola(!) it worked fine and built up to very fast. I switched off the grinder switch and the motor slowed, taking an age to come to rest.
Then, I fitted a grinding wheel on the left hand thread end, tightened everything and retested, using the grinder switch to start it and it spun really fast.
Soooo, I guess the secure ground is an essential feature of a capacitor induction motor. I checked some old furnace motors that were "maturing" in the basement and they had no capacitor but only 2 wires...
I am now trying to remember which parts came off last and put it all back together. I plan to test it each time I put a part back...just in case. I hate it when you fix something on the bench and when rebuilt, it won't work...don't ask about the electric starter on the snowblower..not a happy puppy!
Please, pretty please and then some, do tell me if my "fix" is wrong and I could risk all kinds of nastiness.
Thanks,
Jenni.

In a three wire system you have 2 hot wires (black and red) and a neutral (white). the ground is connected to the neutral at the dryer. In a 4 wire system you have the 2 hot wires, neutral, and a ground. (green). The ground is connected with the neutral at the circuit panel. The hot wires at the dryer should be on the outside scres, the neutral should be in the center and the ground should be under the green screw. *****. .