Our power went out last week and our maytag smooth top range the clook & oven controls don't work (they are digital). the burners work and the oven light comes on but we can not use it to cook>

I would definitely have an electrician come out and check your wiring, fuse box, etc.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advicebcuzGod is so good!


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges,the oven temperature sensor
is the part thatregulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meterbut will need to know the correctresistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check foroverheated wires or faulty terminals first.Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.

1. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.(Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.

1. On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.

1. Set yourmultimeterto ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.

1. Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".

1. If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.

1. With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.

1. A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.

If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens usean electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

try turning power off at electrical main switchboard for a minute, then back on. reset clock and see how it goes.
otherwise > call the repair man.

Hello angeleyez82 - The EOC (electronic oven control/control board) basically sends power to both the broil and bake elements. As long as the power supply to the range (240VAC) and wiring between the elements is correct, then typically only the element(s) or EOC could prevent the unit from heating. I hope this information helps to some degree.

it sounds like the clock assy. cooked or there's a shorted wire somewhere,did the bake element crack or short out?this also can take out the clock assy.if the part is 150 dollars that 's not bad,some of them cost 300 or more.good luck with your oven,also you should have an electrician come in and put the stove on it's own electrical line.

The electronic timer/clock must be working and be in manual mode for the oven to work. Try turning the power off and on and see if it resets. If is doesn't you might need a new timer unit. If you don't need the timer and clock it can be easily by-passed at the rear by joining the active and load wires and the oven will work.

no there is no fuse for that.
the clock board seems to be finnished.

my control panel doesn't light up for both ovens and the clock too. The porclain stove top all five panel do work... could i have blown a fuses? in the oven its self .

it sonds like a fus call 1-800-807-6777 and thay will be abel to tel you war the fusis are

the most common problem for your description is that your bottom ignitor is not working properly just because the ignitor glows doesnt mean your ignitor is working it has to draw 3 amps or more to ignite the bottom burner part number for the ignitor is 12400035 let me know how you make out