Just need a full connection diagram for a hagar analogue din mounted timer switch, thankyou....all connection terminals are located on lower section of timer.do i need a seperate breaker for timer

Copy following link for Hagar timer wiring diagrams and to identify timer model:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-program-Hagar-timer.html
Gene

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CLS Q 31 D timer is ordinary 50-60 Hz 24-hour din-rail analog timer; rated 15 amp, operating voltage 230v with power reserve and 30 minute time increments.
15 amp safe max is 12 amp x 230V = 2760 watts. Use line fuse to protect timer from overload. Use contactor for heavy-amp loads and 3-phase loads.
Copy following links for setting analog timers and wiring din rail timers
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-set-timers.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-program-Hagar-timer.html
Add a comment and describe application for this timer

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Hagar ES420 is 230Volt, 20 amp 4-NO contactor.

Hagar timers: Copy following link to identify Hagar digital timer. Scroll down and view each timer until correct one shows. Then download manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-program-Hagar-timer.html

Copy following link to see general image of Hagar timer system.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Hagar-timer-fuseholde-relay.jpg

On left is a fuseholder.
In middle is timer.
On right is the contactor (or relay depending on model).

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There is no instruction manual for Wylex timers.
However the Wylex sell sheet appears to show generic din rail mounted timers.
Since these timers are made by other companies, and then sold by various companies, and then the models change rapidly, the best course of action is as follows:
1) Re-post question with clear and detailed description of timer buttons, and say what the timer controls.
2) Google image search for 1 and 2 channel timers to find same-similar timer.
3) Most timers have similar programming steps and once you find timer with same buttons, then that timer manual can be used to program unidentified timer.
4) Open following links to find din-rail timers that might match:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Hagar-timers-and-manuals.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-Digital-timers-and-manuals.html#DIN

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Check if programs have conflict, such as ON at Monday, but OFF all days of week.
Check if wiring is correct: The imput voltage does not put power to the switching terminals. Add a jumper wire from input terminal 3 to COM terminal 6.
Check load rating of timer vrs load rating. For example 2300 watts maximum incandescent and halogen, but 400 watt fluorescent tubes, and max 500 watt CFL.
Some timers have minimum watt requirement, but is not apparent in the manual.
If timer clock keeps time, and can be set, then timer input is wired correctly with correct voltage

Copy following links for Hagar timers:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-program-Hagar-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/EG103E_103V_User_Instruction.pdf

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Hagar EH711 is surface-mount analog timer with segments located around timer dial.
Timer has 2-position slide switch with I and O.
Timer has NO and NC wiring terminals, and I O switch reverses terminals.
Timer dial can be rotated by moving minute hand clockwise with finger

Open following link for instructions that illustrate how to set analog timers by experimenting with features.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-set-timers.html

Open following link to see Hagar analog and digital timers with illustrations and manuals:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Hagar-timers-and-manuals.html#700-series

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Wiring diagram shows on side of timer and looks same as to following illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/NO-NC-timer-200.jpg
For more complicated illustration showing din rail and modular timer wiring variations:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/NO-NC-timer.jpg

With din rail timers, the power connects to screw terminals 1 and 2 and this will run the clock and relay.
The TE502 image is bad, and I can't see wiring diagram exactly.
It appears that terminal 4 is common. This is typical for din rail timers.
Put Hot lead to terminal 4.
Terminal 3 appears to be the NO terminal, so put wire going to Load to terminal 3.

To permanently bypass the timer, you have to move wiring.
I don't have specific wiring diagram or programming manual for mtda8 timer, but am familiar with wiring din-rail mounted digital timers.

1) Wiring is typical across all din-rail timers, with variations of same theme depending on number of channels and purpose.
2) Open following illustration of wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/DIN-series-wiring-300.jpg
Same-similar illustration shows on side of timer.

3) Notice the mtda8 has 5 screw terminals.
4) Two screws are for incoming power. These terminals are usually labeled 1 and 2. These wires power the timer.

5) Three more screws are for the timing relay. These screws are usually labeled 3 4 and 5.
Typically the #4 center screw is common, and carries power. And when timer is ON, power is live between #4 and #3 terminal. When timer is OFF, power is live between #4 and #5 terminal.

6) Move #3 wire to #4 or #5 screw and then the timer function is bypassed.

Resourceful do-it-yourselfer will find following information helpful for solving problem.
Max Load 1000Watts incandescent
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-program-Hagar-timer.html#700-series
Manual uses several languages including English
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Hager-EH711-Timer.pdf

Hagar 700 series analog timer has mechanical dial that rotates as time passes.
Segments located on outer edge of dial are moved down-and-out, or up-and-inward to set on-off times.
As dial rotates, segments move lever that turns Load on-off.

With segment timers, all consecutive segments between on and off times have to be pushed in place.
Since EH700 series timer has NO NC terminals, segment position is determined by how timer was wired.
This is because segments-in and segments-out turn different terminals ON.

As a result, the best way to set this timer is to push 10 consecutive segments down-and-out.
Leave rest of segments up-and-inward.
Then manually rotate timer dial to watch when Load turns on-off.

Hagar analog timers also have a switch located in bottom right.
This is the manual override switch.
Set switch in position "I" and then rotate timer dial to watch when Load turns of-off.
Set switch in position "O" and then rotate timer dial again to watch when Load turns of-off.

Manually rotating dial and experimenting with segments and switch will tell resourceful do-it-yourselfer exactly how to set timer.
Once segments and switch are set, then rotate timer hands until current time shows on analog dial face.

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Locate the COMMON wire
connected to first old switch.
It might be attached to a different
colored screw, or find
markings on old switch.
Connect BLACK wire from
switch timer to COMMON
wire, using a twist connector.
Connect the other two wires from the old switch to either the
BLUE and RED wires from the switch timer.
Connect the ground wire from the box to the BARE COPPER
wire on the switch timer. If there is no ground wire, ground the
switch timer to the box. If the box is plastic, connect the bare
copper wire to ground as supplied or contact an electrician.
Locate the COMMON on the second old switch of the 3-way pair.
Connect jumper wire (supplied) from the COMMON terminal
to either of the other terminals on the remote 3-way switch.
Make sure all twist connectors are tight.
Tuck wires into wall boxes leaving room for the devices.
Mount the devices into the wall boxes, then install the wall plates.
Turn power back on at the service panel.
Make sure the switch timer displays “MAN” mode. Do the following
test with the remote switch in each of its 2 positions:
Press the NEXT ON/OFF button on the switch timer several
times. Each time that you push the NEXT ON/OFF button, the
switch controlled light or device (the “load”) should turn on
or off. If so, proceed to Section 3.
If the timer display changes between ON and OFF but the
load does not operate, re-check your wiring and make sure
the load is functional.
If the timer display changes
between ON and OFF but the
load only operates when the
remote switch is in one of
its 2 positions, you need to
turn off the power at the service panel, change the jumper
wire to the other terminal. Then turn power back on at the
service panel and repeat. good luck