The dryer is spinning, but not generating heat. I'm assuming it's the heating element or thermostat. How do I determine which one?

There could be a number of reasons why your Kenmore dryer is not heating. Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the problem:

1. Check the thermostat. The thermostat controls the dryer's heat. If the thermostat is not functioning properly, the dryer may not heat. Check the thermostat and replace it if necessary.
2. Check the heating element. The heating element is responsible for generating the heat in the dryer. If the heating element is not working, the dryer will not heat. Check the heating element and replace it if necessary.
3. Check the dryer vent. If the dryer vent is clogged or blocked, it can cause the dryer to not heat properly. Check the dryer vent and make sure it is clear of any obstructions.
4. Check the power supply. Make sure the dryer is receiving power. Check the outlet and circuit breaker to ensure that the dryer is getting electricity.

I hope these suggestions help! If you have checked all of these things and the dryer is still not heating, it is possible that there is another issue causing the problem. I recommend having a mechanic diagnose the problem in order to determine the cause and recommend the appropriate repair. Let me know if you have any other questions.

1) Have you checked to makes sure all of the connections for the heating element are correct and plugged in?
2) Have you checked to make sure any and all fuses (if any) are good?
3) Have you cleaned the interior of the dryer?
4) Have you opened the dryer up and turned it on to check to see if the heating coil is heating or not?

If you haven't done these go back and do so.

Check the thermal fuse the cutout fuse & all thermostats .
Also check the heating element & check to see if it is touching any metal. It also could be the centrifical switch in the motor.
Hope this helps

In electric dryers, heat is generated by the heating element. The element is a coil of heating wire enclosed in a metal chamber. Electric current flowing through the coil creates heat and the air being pulled through the chamber absorbs this heat. If the element is defective then it will not heat. It can be tested with a multi-meter for continuity. Unplug the dryer and remove the front or rear panel to locate the element so it can be tested.
The high limit thermostat is a safety device mounted on the heating chamber and is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating when the exhaust vent is restricted. A restricted vent will cause the high limit thermostat to trip or activate, interrupting the circuit to the heating element or gas valve. The high limit thermostat is not designed to activate repeatedly like a cycling thermostat and will eventually fail causing a no heat symptom. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. If there is no continuity then it will need to be replaced and the restricted vent system corrected as well.
Cycling thermostats control the temperature inside the dryer drum. They are designed to "cycle" the heating element on and off to maintain the correct amount of heat. Cycling thermostats are normally located on the blower housing or elsewhere in the internal airflow ducting. Over time, the cycling thermostat can become defective. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter.

Conventional dryers are usually accessed by removing the rear panel. I would think these would be the same. Unplug the dryer and remove wires from heating element. Test for continuity with an ohmmeter. If there is no reading, the heating element is bad. Disconnect wires from the hi temp thermostat and test with an ohmmeter and if no reading it is bad. Sears has these parts available.

It could be the tstat, or faulty heating element.

The best thing to do is a continuity check on the AC supply from the main supply through to the heating element and determine where the fault is.

I would check heating element also on the heating element box is a thermostat probably need to check that also take the wires off the heating element and use an ohm meter to check it out it should register and not go to infinity. Same for the heating thermostat.

This is a fairly simple procedure. Just follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present even with the dryer turned off.

2. Turn the dryer around so you can access the rear and remove the exhaust vent hose.

3. Locate and remove the screws around the perimeter of the dryer back panel and remove panel.

The dryer heating circuitry will be located on the right hand side (as viewed form the rear). The heating circuits consist of the following components:

Heating Element - (part number 660982)
*Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - (part number 279769 includes the Hi-Limit Thermostat).

*If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is determined to be defective it is recommended that you replace BOTH parts at the same time. That's why they are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

The heating element is located inside the heater box. The TCO is located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

Searspartdirect.com has an excellent exploded view diagram of all these components. Just type in your model number and locate the following under the "bulkhead" section:

TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat - Item 1
Heating Element - Item 14
Hi-Limit Thermostat (by itself) - Item 34

The reason I mention all these components is because if you have not confirmed the heating element to be defective, you may actually have a blown TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat. Its easy to assume a bad heating element if the dryer fails to heat, but it may or may not be the cause. Just some additional things to consider, that's all. These components cost less than a heating element too. If you have determined the heating element is bad, then continue with the following:

4. Disconnect the leads to the heating element and locate the screws that hold the heater box in place.

5. Locate the screws on the outside of the heater box that hold the element in place. You may also have to remove the TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat.

6. Once the screws are removed, the heating element will slide out of the heater box. The element fits tight and it may require a little effort.

7. Once the defective element is removed, install the new one by sliding it inside the heater box. Make sure you align the screws holes.

8. Reinstall the remaining components and reinstall the heater box.

The rest is self-explanatory.

NOTE: A good heating element will read approximately 9 to 13 ohms. Make sure you disconnect any leads before taking any measurements to ensure accuracy of your readings.

The following link explains a good portion of what I've already explained to you, but it may help as well:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention the section that discusses proper air flow. The majority of all dryer heat related problems are attributed to poorly installed, kinked, clogged or crushed exhaust vent ducting. If you haven't thoroughly inspected the dryer and ducting recently, now may be a good time to do so. Otherwise, any components you replace will fail prematurely. Not to mention, a clogged dryer is also a fire hazard.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Is the drum spinning, but not heating? Or...is the drum not spinning at all?

First, we'll assume your dryer is spinning, but just not heating. If your dryer vent was clogged as you stated, it is common for the thermal cut-out (TCO) to blow. This is a non-resettable device that acts as a fuse. Once it blows, it has to be replaced. There is also a possibility that the heating element went bad, if the TCO didn't do it's job. To check, you will have to remove the lower panel under the door. There are some screws under the bottom lip of the panel that you will have to remove and then the panel should just drop down and come off. CAUTION: Please UNPLUG the dryer BEFORE servicing anything inside. There are still dangerous voltages present with the dryer turned off.

Now located the heating element. It will be on the right-hand side encased in a heater box. There are two small components mounted to the heater box housing. The one closest to the front of the dryer is the high-limit thermostat. The one farthest to the back is the TCO. The two work in conjunction to help regulate the temperature inside the dryer, as well as, protect the heating element. Locate the two wires coming off the ceramic terminal of the heating element. Unplug these two wires and do a resistance check across the terminal. If the heating element is good, it will read about 9-13 ohms. Now remove the two wires from the TCO and perform a resistance check. The resistance should read 0 ohms (or a short) if good. If the TCO reads infinite (or open) it must be replaced. The same applies the the heating element. If the TCO requires replacement, it is strongly recommended by the manufacturer that you replace the high-limit thermostat at the same time. In many cases, the two components are sold as a set. The reason being that if the heating circuits overheat, there is a strong potential that the thermostat will be damaged as well. Replacing only one of the components can result in having the replace the other a short time later.

Now, if your dryer does not spin at all, you probably have a blown thermal FUSE. There is a difference between the thermal FUSE and the thermal CUT-OUT. The thermal fuse is located on the air blower housing right under the drum, and is a white plastic component. Remove the wires from it and perform a resistance check. It should also read a short if good. If not, it must be replaced.

If you need parts, here are the part numbers:

Thermal Cut-out/Thermostat Kit (part #2821)
Thermal Fuse (part #2923)
Heating Element (part #525502)

You can find all these parts at repairclinic.com, along with the price information & pictorial part index. Just type your model number in the search menu. I hope this helps you. If you need any further assistnace, please post back with comments and let me know.