Kenmore Elite 970 oven..15-17 years old. Right front burner will not shut off. Have to switch the fuse off/on in basement. Can this be fixed without a huge bill? Or is it better to buy new?

On this model (with the glass touch controls, right?), it is usually caused by a bad, sticking relay on the relay board, located on the back side of the oven, down near the bottom. Some of these models had a safety recall... You might want to check to see if yours is one of the affected models. (The model number you gave is not complete; find the complete model # & serial # on the range itself, usually on the range frame, visible when you open the drawer or open the door.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

Shorted control behind knob. Temporary fix: remove fuses for that element

Does it fill to the proper level or does it seem to fill fuller than usual?

What is the complete model number of your unit?

Hello gralexander,

The problem you are experencing is with you control switches. The cheapest place i can find the switch is from searsparts direct. Here is a link to the webpage http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-elite-Parts/Range-Parts/Model-79046809991/0583/0124160/P0050380/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=79046809991

You will see a diagram in the top left side of the page use it to locate the switches that are bad and order them from sears. You may also need the burners to check them you need a continutity tester.

1. Remove the burner from the socket
2. Take your test and touch one probe to each side of the burner.
3. If you have continunity then the burners are good
4. If not you will have to order burners as well.


Changing the switches:

1. Unplug the range
2. Remove the back panel where the switches are.
3. Remove the knob from the front
4. Remove the screws from the switch you are replacing (Due one at a time)
5. Move the wires from the switch to the corresponding terminal on the new switch
6. Replace the switch and screw in place
7. Do the other switch
8. Reinstall the cover on the back of the unit
9. Plug in and try

Doing all of the above steps should fix the problem that you are having. Please make sure that you install L1 to L1 and L2 to L2 on the new switch other wise you will cross wire it and the rest of the switches will short and need to be replaced.

Thank you for choosing FixYa.com. If you have any other questions please post back to this thread and I will do my best to help you with your Range problem

Justin

Your Stainless Steel drum is supported inside of the washer tub by a spider assembly. The assemply, which is made of cast aluminum, has corroded (steel and aluminum and detegent don't mix) and the spider assembly has broken. The drum has likely wobbled enough to wear a hole through the tub. You need to replace the drum and spider assembly, and tub.

If your oven is 20 years old the temperature sensor system might no longer be accurate, if you have access to a temperature measuring device that can confirm that the oven is not reaching 350 then run it up and check that its not just your indicator light system. Some oven burners have air control and yours may have accumulated oven soil over the years. If your burner. Is behind a short wall like mine is, use a mirror and torch to check. A clean can bring things back to standard. Flame heat is from a good mix of. Gas and Air...

Scrape it. DO NOT USE until it is removed.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote about dishwashers and them leaking.

Leaking Dishwasher

heatman101

ppi

It is the burner control (behind the knob). The triac in the control has failed. $50 item, 10 minute change. Just make note which wire goes to which terminal.

I doubt that it is the control board, as the board has little to do with the stove top, but rather controls the display and the oven temperature/feedback monitoring.

Hope this helps.