I have a Husqvarna k750 concrete saw. I have had this saw for about a year. But now when i pull its too stiff even with the decompression valve in. I have taken out the blade assembly and tried turning it on and pulls fine and turns on on the first pull. But when I assemble the blade and put the belt back on its stiff again. I have the belt not too tight and and still cant figure out the cause.

If the saw is fitted with a decompression switch you need to decompress the cylinder after every pull to make it easier to start. If it doesn't have a decompression switch you need to put the saw on the ground and put your right foot firmly into the handle opening, place your left hand on the top hand bar, grip the pull handle and pull out slowly until you feel a solid wall or compression and then pull straight up fast and hard for about 8 - 10". Make sure the brake is on when starting. I have an older Husky saw and this is how I start it. It has a short pull cycle so don't try to give it a long pull like a weed whipper!

I'll be honest, I am not exactly sure what you mean but it sounds like you are talking about a runaway. Sometimes gas powered saws will run themselves without hitting the trigger, and it's often caused by the carburetor set improperly. The older saws have a high and a low, and the new California approved only have the low (but the high can be tweaked with some effort).

Check piston rings. Sounds like you have a seized engine.

The345 should have a blue push in deco valve on the r/h side of the cylinder, if not there may be a 13mm blanking screw there, this can be removed and a deco valve fitted.

The blade bolt is 13mm,on the opposite side there is a hole in the belt guard to insert a 6mm pin to lock the front pulley, once locked undo the blade bolt counter clockwise, once removed, remove the outer clamping flange, you can then remove the blade, the standard arbour is 20mm, this can be changed if you wish to a 25.4mm, or a 22mm, depending on the arbour size of the blade you wish to fit, the arbour just pulls off the shaft with a suitable puller. Refit the the blade and outer flange, tighten the bolt securley.

From [email protected] Hi kaqibso these saws are equipt with a decompression switch.It is located on the right side of the unit and has a red cap on it, pull out on it. Best of Luck......

I hope 2 different problems Marvin. I think the starter is most important, after you reply with findings we will take on the likely fuel delivery problem. Please do this and post back (below) with what you find.

Starter Handle difficult to pull:
1. Remove the starter cover. Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if not repair the starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including but not limited to; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; cracked fuel delivery lines; running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the plug. Remove the muffler (clean it and the spark arrestor before reinstalling), hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Please Note: Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.
4. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. Inspect the flywheel and crankshaft under the starter cover. Are the woodruff key slots aligned and the key intact? Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair.


If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou
Starter fluid removes what little lubrication is provided by the fuel mix. I suggest a teaspoon of mix into open carburetor throat or the plug hole. Do not go to speed with the air filter removed.

here is the link to the owner's manual.

http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2009/HOUS2009_O0901001.pdf

if you have any other questions, please visit www.ButlerPower.com or call John at 860.233.5439 x222

Jan 1990 Special 50 IPL (example may not be you saw)
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/usa/1990/I90000/I9000020.PDF
Operators Manual (example may not be you saw)
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS1982/HOUS1982_O8200003.PDF
Unfortunately there is no phone number. I suggest you stop by your local Husky dealer (ask for a repair estimate while there $10-20 applied toward an actual repair probably $60-80), they should be willing to provide you with the correct links or a phone number where you can get them.
It is old (88 or 98) enough I doubt there is a decompression valve or purge bulb.
Please tell me you are not trying to drop start this. Read and follow the procedure "STARTING THE CHAIN SAW" from the manual. If you want to attempt a repair I think this is too deep for this forum. Please try here:
ArboristSite.com Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9
This is a collection of chainsaw enthusiasts with a few professional chainsaw mechanics thrown in. Here you can post a question and get an immediate response. You can have the chainsaw at your elbow and your helper a click away. If you make a good connection and are willing you may be able converse by phone. We can't do that yet.
I would like you to do this first:
Run Lean:
Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)?

• Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
• Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
• Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?

Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.

This repair will most likely exceed replacement cost. Use your best judgment HTH
Lou
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – for use with IPL
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week

2 things you might want to look at.
1) Vacuum test your fuel line. This is a common problem with huskys.

2) Check to see if the exhaust port or spark arrestor screen is plugged up. If so pick out a carbon deposits.