I have an E70-E3 TV that does not show a pictures. I have pulled the back off the TV and looked over the power supply but did not see any burns or bulged capacitors. I am not sure which wire on the powersupply is the standby wire as it is not as obviously marked as what I have seen on other videos. Can anyone help me diagnose the TV so I can accurately determine which component is bad?
SOURCE: power supply
Call 800-726-4405 - But the part may not be available - request an exchange through the manufacturer. By law the manufacturer must provide parts for 5 years.
SOURCE: PDP4294 PowerSupply Components
For the life of me, I can not find those caps online. Anyone have a direct line to the item? Mine also blew out yesterday.
SOURCE: Trying to identify a capacitor on the power supply board
IF you have the G BOARD part #A-1316-367-A it's:
1-162-133-00 CERAMIC 390PF 10% 2KV
IF you have the G BOARD part #A-1316-422-A it's:
1-161-754-00 CERAMIC 0.001MF 10% 2KV
SOURCE: No power when plugged in. On off button stays dark, nothing works
Everyone has problems with SMPSs; mine started in 1971 when IBM was first using them; they were literally blowing up and throwing molten copper several feet.
Anyhow, if you have the benefit of a capacitance meter with DF function, check the main filter caps all of the smaller caps.
The quality and durability of electrolytics is bad and getting worse and once one of these fails anywhere in a feedback path, the supply will not start.
HF is hell on electrolytics.
The (ferrite) transformer in a switcher measures very low on the Ohms scale; depending on power handling and service frequency, primary <<100 Ohms, secondary from 0.? - 10 Ohms between taps, because they operate at higher frequencies.
The 50 volts from the diode bridge is way too low; you probably have failed 100-200 uFd. electrolytics right close to them although this is fairly rare since they are only working with 120 Hz.
From a 120 VAC line, you should have ~ 160-170 DC volts at no load if the caps are still working as they should and you have no notable resistance between the AC and the diodes.
Well-designed switchers are wonderfully efficient and very reliable if the maker didn't cheat on component quality.
I've repaired literally thousands as a sideline in a now retired business and after studying them and adding a ceramic cap.or two and better quality electrolytics, they will run for decades.
At one time, I had standard repair prices on ~ 70 different models.
My guarantee was 'lifetime' and that was limited only because I retired.
Testimonial: "Thanks fo the tip and taking your time to answer! Great insight! "
SOURCE: Insignia NS LCD32 no power
If one is domed on top and there several other of the same value replace them also even if not domed. Check fuse on power board. When plugged in there is a constant 5 volts that will be going to the main board from the power board. The main board will send a turn on voltage to the power board from the main. Disconnect the inverter boards from the power board. If it still won't turn on replace the power board.
Testimonial: "helpful but could use alittle more info"
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