I've tested the battery and all cells read 3.9 to 4.1 when you hit the battery indicator to see how full the battery is it just flashes one red light a hand full of times and stops checked the battery as a hole reads 19'ish volts plug it into a tool no led light or operation of the tool what should i check for next help please???
I've had the same thing happen if your battery is bad their circuitry in there that goes bad
There is more than one cell in side its case on has revirst polearity and badly damage you can some time fell yhe case by its self slide your hand around the case notice a slippery deffrence there should not be one that is acid wash hands asap see if you can return to factory for rebate on new one.
I have a Milwaukee drill and 2 batteries, when the battery goes flat, the drill just dies no warning. The battery shows 1 or no red lights. I would think your battery has gone flat or no longer holding a charge. It may show 18 to 19v initially but as soon as you go to use it, it dies. I was told when I bought the drill to keep using each battery until they go completely flat. That's why I got a spare. Fully charging from flat apparently, makes the battery life a lot longer rather than constantly doing partial charges.
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I haven't worked on one of them in years but I looked at a breakdown and the parts are as I remember. Go to Milwaukeetool.com and under parts/service type in your model number and view the wiring diagram for an operational check procedure. I would first look at the cord and is the base sitting on 1/2 or greater plate steel. If rusted or painted you will loose some of the holding force. Also I don't know what motor you have but some of the larger units require a lot of amps to operate and it is possible that even though you plugged it in direct to wall the circuit wasn't sufficient to operate both units. Last resort call the tech dept. at Milwaukee and see if they have any ideas. That panel is a component part as you know and there were no replacement parts for it. Hope this helps if not let me know and I will do some more checking
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The term "flash" has to do with the on board OBD2 computer flash memory. New software updates or sometimes performance tuning will be programmed to "flash" this memory effectively changing certain preset values such as ignition timing and air/fuel tables. Most cases i have experience with are for the performance market but have been developed in accordance with factory guidlines.
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hold joystick back, press on button, move joystick forward, then let go.
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It sounds like your inverter is at fault. You will need an inverter tester ( most good service techs will have one ) to prove that the output to the compressor is correct. If the inverter is okay then it will be the compressor at fault with a location error or it is simply seized. A common fault that caused this was the eev remained closed (coil failure ) and caused the compressor to over heat.
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Maybe there is something wrong with the charger itself. If you have a friend that has the same drill try to charge the battery on his charger.
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There's a host of videos on YouTube about rejuvenating these batteries. You can jump start of sometimes rapidly plug in and in plug charger to get them to begin accepting a charge.
https://youtu.be/ruR42DHJ9tc
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