I have an old bike s.s. e53313 don't know what it is. It has straight dropouts

Not possible to ID a bike just by serial number. If head badge and decals are missing the bike is not worth much, and you don't need to know brand/model/age to work on it. For more info see my tip How to determine the year value etc of your bicycle

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

Look on outside of left rear dropout (where the wheel slides in) or under the bottom bracket (crank housing). Not very useful or important - your Murray is not collectible at all, parts do not depend on model year, and hard to get any info from serial number on a department store bike. How to determine the year value etc of your bicycle

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

Looks like April of 1967 per angelfire.com. The several additional pieces of information are needed to confirm date. (1) Location of serial number, if its on the rear dropout (just over the rear axle nut) (2) type of Headbadge on the bike, it should be white oval shaped for this serial number to be valid.

The semi-circular spacer is what holds the derailleur in the dropout. Take the part that looks like a "C" and line it up on the drop out, the spacer goes on the other side of the dropout. There should be a screw that fastens to the spacer and clamps the derailleur to the drop out.

the half circle nut needs to be loosened up, slide the whole lot of it into the rear dropout until it stops, tighten up the bolt to the nut and make sure the dropout slots match up with the derailleur dropout slots and you should be ready to go. Install your back wheel, chain and cable.

Serial Numbers are usually in one of two locations.

1. Turn the bike upside down and look at what is the very bottom of the frame where the pedals and cranks pass through. This is the bottom bracket shell. Serial numbers are commonly stamped here and will be a long series of numbers and letters
2. Occasionally they are also stamped inside the rear dropout on the left or right. The rear dropout is the part of the frame where the rear wheel is connected.

Matt @ roadragecycling.com

The distance between the fron fork dropouts on most 'normal' adult bicyles should be 100mm.

http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html

If it is larger something is very wrong and the fork should be examined for mechanical soundness.

As far as how to "install front wheel bicycle", Google it for videos.

Perhaps, the dropouts on frames and forks are are usually metal and the serrated surface of the Quick Relase Skewers normally digs through the paint to find a purchase in metal.

This forum discusses Look forks with carbon dropouts.

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/bmc/carbon-dropouts-durability-137519.html

http://www.cyclingcrowd.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/technical/25794/Tightening-wheels-on-carbon-forks-and-frames

If your unnamed fork's dropouts are indeed carbon does your owner's manual specify and special handling or skewers for them?

Read about 'boutique' skewers.

http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

You need a equaliser (i think thats what it is called). I had the same problem with a custom bike, the voltage is designed for a certain volt and if you change it than it will not work properly, any after market motorbike shop should have one, they are fairly straight forward to hook up, directions should be in pack.

The "rear dropout" points are the part that connects the rear axel to the frame of the Bike. You likely have to remove the back wheel during the process of installing it.