I first tried to restore it to an earlier day. Took an hour to restore, and did not help. I then went into the C-Drive properties and ran the tool to check and repair the hard drive. Still slow. Next I installed the OS from the CD that came with it. Took 17 hours and it did no good. As a last step, knowing this would cost me any files I had not backed up, I did a factory recovery. That took 14 hours and it is still too slow to respond to any commands. Takes upward of 5 minutes to open anything. Did this damage the hard drive or something?????
2 posts same question. 12 year old PC.
your hdd is bad. (both that old)
since is basically dead PC, why not boot to Linux live media
click try me, and pick disktest, Unbuntu v17+ is free)
then see that old HDD Fail and the 2nd one too?
no OS on earth will load to any bad hDD>
buy SSD put it , and load OS
you didn't say what OS yor are running, VISTA?
pulling the cord is no damage, not really
it cause the dirty bit to set and old windows will recover that with F8 safe mode (no OS stated so Im not going to answer for all 5.)
OLD AMD Athlon X2 4450e
2008 made , 11 years old.
it came new with VISTA (not good that) ever.
HP does not support it nor does Microsoft.
most of these are in the recycle center now.
best is send it to IRAN, IF YOU GET MY DRIFT.
A BAD HDD CAN NOT BE REPAIRED , not ever.
if the S.M.A.R.T tests fail, 2001 to now, that is dead drive.
for ever, MS., check disk never ever can repair any hDD.
The smart test is free, if PC boots
run crystaldiskinfo.exe free.
the yellow or red drive means just that.
the unrecoverable sectors over 0 is A BAD HDD.
what install media is this, not said, so,,,, answers hard.
the CD drive 12 years old can be bad
as can old CDs bad, if scratched.
if PC is loved (why I;ve no clue) buy SSD new put it in
and install W7. at least it has support.
for a few more months. that is.
LEARN THIS ABOUT ALL OLD HDD.
THEY HAD NEW SPARE CLUSTERS
WHEN OUT , THE DRIVE IS NOW NO GOOD.
A FACT. RUN SMART TESTS, STATUS, IF IT SHOWS BAD IT IS BAD.
FOR SURE.
OTHER HDD TESTS IN FACT CAN BE USELESS. UNLESS 100% DEAD. (LIKE DEAD MOTOR DEAD)
windows 10 (is toss coin if it can run)
my guess no ,but lots of luck and it might.
w7 ends support in Jan 2020
on any old PC use the right tools to test the hDD
and windows vista check disk IS NOT THAT TOOL.
sorry.
can't means (for less than $1000 of bucks)
when SMART fails we upgrade to a newer better drive, in all cases a SSD.
128GB is plenty and is only $20 cost.
HDD for get them, unless used for backup and huge. (have many here, and RAID on SAS)
and never run VISTA , MS forgot the recovery feature set in vista and the cure was W7
history that is, and VISTA is not viable now.
no HDD stated by you , label sticker data
the old one or new to you one.
the free test to run is.
see good 100% here in blue, that means good.
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/cry...
the HDD tests itself every minute of its life.
and knows when it is bad, all by itself.
that is what SMART does, this magic.(wiki it)
learn to check that first,
or it will fail HARD.
on a used HDD or SSD?, erase the disk first.
if hdd is new brand new in a sealed box say so please.
the run full smart tests, using a Linux live boot DVD or usb stick booted.
then run Linux "disktest"
or crystaldiskinfo.exe
then load windows last .,in that order.
best is to load windows off USB stick
CD drives love to fail this old sure do.
w10 is free to try, not any cost if you have blank media, for 30 full days.
on dead PC, there are 3 ways to test the
suspected hdd (or ssd)
1: use the Linux demo disk,booted.
run disktest. (Ubuntu v17+ up works)
2: boot to say w7 when PE disk run off it
crystaldiskinfo.exe.
3: move the hdd to 2nd PC and run as 2nd drive, and run crystaldiskinfo.exe.
here is the Linux way, running now.http://www.pcdied.com/linux.html
see the sectors on the hDd are dead.
dead for eternity and hopeless to.'
see the red marked errors !
costs nothing to do that, the test.
here is cystaldiskinfo.exe (free)
and odd HDD< that ran out of spare clusters.
this HDD id DOOMED, (useless)
http://www.pcdied.com/raw/smart-failed.J...
check out parameter C6, see that, that is the numbers of doom, it grows worse every day more.
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SOURCE: reboot or repair harddisk
the computer refuses to boot up and reports 1720-SMART- hard drive detects imminent failure (Failing attr) Please back up the hard drive and run HDD self test in F10 setup
SOURCE: I have no Acer Recovery disks My lap top is giving
Could you look at solutions other than running a system restore? What is the initial issue that is requiring you to run the restore?
If you're at the point of needing to run a restore, you do need to get your hands on the discs, I would recommend borrowing the discs from someone else with an Acer, or purchasing them from the manufacturer. Trying to borrow discs from someone might be an issue as Acer no longer provides physical recovery discs, the process is run directly from the laptop and the files are on a partitioned section of the harddrive.
SOURCE: Chkdsk runs for 24 hours and never
The time that the 4th level takes is completely dependent upon the SIZE of the disk. That level is a datacheck. Each block of the drive is checked. If you have a 300GB drive, that will take some time as each block is read/written/read a number of times.
Is there a specific issue you are trying to address or is this a preventitive measure?
Dan
SOURCE: When i turn on PC i get "windows error recovery"
You need a Windows OS install or upgrade disc appropriate for the one on your computer (including the service packs you have installed). The Acer disc will only restore to the original configuration. You will need to try to get an OS disc from Microsoft (difficult if your computer is out of warranty) or from someone who has one. Try locating a Windows User's Group (many of the members have multiple OS discs and will lend them out) in your area or a local repair person. Then you can use the Recovery Console.
Alternatively, get a Unix CD and an external hard drive or optical disc writer. Boot from the Unix CD (usually you can press F12 to access the choose boot location). Then plug in the USB hard drive or optical disc drive. Mount this disc and copy your important data from the non-bootable disc to the external media. Then run the Acer disc and download all the updates before trying to reinstall software and return the files to your machine from the .
In Win7, everyone can create this from Start > All Programs > Maintenance > Create a System Repair Disc. (So then you get one burned from any Win7 computer as long as you match Home Premium, Professional, Ultimate.)
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
(please note that if your restore disc provides an OS earlier than XP SP3, Windows Update will not work. You will have to manually find the updates on microsoft.com)
SOURCE: Have a 03 matrix with a oilpump promblem I
Generally three things can turn the light on. First is the sending unit itself if it's going bad. Next is an obstruction of the pump pickup screen (usually hard carbon deposits). Third is worn engine bearings (usually rod bearings). Best way to find the problem is to have someone put a mechanical pressure gauge on the engine and read the actual pressure. If it's low you need to go into the engine to determine why. if it's normal, replace the sending unit. Senders aren't terribly expensive and you could just buy one and replace the one you have, providing the engine isn't tapping or knocking.
Look for your computer's monitor settings, then adjust its refresh rate.
To modify a refresh rate on Windows, right-click anywhere on the Windows desktop.
Select "Properties," then choose the "Display Properties" tab on the window that appears.
Click the "Settings" option, then select "Advanced" from the window that appears.
Choose the "Monitor" tab, which lets you access a drop-down menu with the options for refresh settings adjustments.
As a basic guide, use a setting of at least 75 hertz.
Confirm the change by clicking "Apply." Reboot the PC to ensure the new settings on the screen take effect.
Check your screen if the blinking problem is resolved. If not, try a higher refresh setting.
If there is no change on the flickering of the screen, this means the problem is not caused by the screen's refresh rate.
If your computer is not running on a battery or surge protector, shut it down to safely transfer the plug to another outlet
Hope this helps.
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