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Anonymous Posted on Sep 12, 2009

Appears to go into an extended defrost cycle.

Refrigerator appears to go into an extended defrost cycle.
Freezer section heats up and defrosts everything in a short time, Melts all the ice . Un plugging it seems to reset it and allows to start to freeze again then a day later defrosted again. Did this about 3 weeks ago then worked ok until today and has defrosted everything again. Has electronic controls. top freezer

  • 1 more comment 
  • Anonymous Sep 19, 2009

    How do I get the defrost thermostat cover in the freezer off without breaking it? How do you gain access to the #4 & 5 thermistors? How to test thermistors?

  • Anonymous Sep 21, 2009

    Very good. GE Model PTS25LHPARWW

  • Anonymous Oct 20, 2009

    The thermistors fixed it. Thanks much.

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  • GE Master 1,606 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 12, 2009
Anonymous
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Joined: Jul 06, 2009
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Sounds like your freezer has a bad defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) or bad #4 and/or #5 thermistor . This bimetal , has a high temp rating of 140 degrees , which means , when it gets to 140 behind the panel , it will cut off the defrost heater , to keep ice and food from thawing . The thermistors , tell the main control board the temps , and it decides when to restart the cooling process . I would check the thermistors by the digital controls , in the test mode , or have a technician check them for you .

Testimonial: "I would agree with this but how do I get the cover off the defrost thermostat with out breaking it. Also how do I get to the #4 & #5 thermistors? "

  • Anonymous Sep 19, 2009

    I would need your model number to be able to help you more .

  • Anonymous Sep 20, 2009

    To get to the bimetal and thermistors , remove the rear inside freezer panel (maybe 2 screws ) . The bimetal , is the 1" tall cylinder , clipped to the top of the coils , with a pink and blue wire going to it . The thermistor #4 , is the 1" long , white cylinder , with 2 white wires going to it , at the top left on the coils . The #5 thermistor , is at the bottom left , slightly foreward of the drain below the coils , slipped into a housing ( just pulls out ) , with 2 white wires going to it also .



    If the top of the bimetal , looks cockeyed , then this is the problem . The thermistors , best to just replace them . Same part number for both thermistors .

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Why the heat exchanger between the freezer section and the fridge section freezes up around the second element closer to the door and makes ice on the roof of the fridge section.

If your freezer is icing up it is the defrost mechanism consisting of the timer, heating element, and defrost thermostat.

When you unplug unit everything melts and it runs fine for a few days till it freezes up again.

Usually it is the heating element that just burns out and has to be replaced.
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Check the door gasket for a leak. Air entering past the gasket will form ice.
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Do I need new frig or hav it repaired. Hav water under vegetable drawers

Its the defrost problem.In your unit the defrost cycle is not running on time.This is the procedure of the unit.--- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fridge section gets cold. The air from freezer to fridge passes from the section, in that section the damper is located.In your case the freezer gets cold, after that defrost cycle has to start, but in your case the defrost cycle is not starting on time so over ice gets internally build and when defrost cycle starts, this ice melts and this gets leaks in the vegetable and under vegetable drawer.-------- Get the defrost timer, and defrost assembly parts checked and repaired by the technician.Repairing will solve the problem.You can get required parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

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GLRT216TAW2 Model Number. Water under vegetable drawers, No other water leaking. Back is dry, Do i need a repair man or new refrig which is only 10 yrs old.

Its the defrost problem.In your unit the defrost cycle is not running on time.This is the procedure of the unit.--- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fridge section gets cold. The air from freezer to fridge passes from the section, in that section the damper is located.In your case the freezer gets cold, after that defrost cycle has to start, but in your case the defrost cycle is not starting on time so over ice gets internally build and when defrost cycle starts, this ice melts and this gets leaks in the vegetable and under vegetable drawer.-------- Get the defrost timer, and defrost assembly parts checked and repaired by the technician.Repairing will solve the problem.You can get required parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

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Hey there, I have a Westpoint NOFROST De Luxe Tropical frige, model # WRK 297.1. The freezer section is forming ice and the circulation fan is making alot of noise due to ice being formed behind the back...

I believe your problem is the defroster circuit . There are only three components on most refrigerators unless you have something real special . Kidding . They are as follows : defrost timer , heating element , and defrost cut out switch . The defrost timer cycles the refrigerator out of normal operation and into defrost mode once every six to eight hours depending on the unit . When in this mode everything shuts off , compressor , circulation fan , and condenser fan is so equipped . To eliminate the circulation fan , you'll have to keep an eye on your refrigerator checking in every half hour or so for six hours to eight hours and see if it stops working . If it does , then we know the timer is working correctly and the problem will be the heating element or cutout switch . The heating element is checked with an ohm meter. Usually they burn out when they go bad and you will read infinite resistance. The defrost cutout switch should read 0-1 ohms when the freezer temperature is 40° F or lower. If the heating element checks good , in other words it shows to have resistance usually between 30 and 100 ohms, replace the cutout switch . If the circulation fan never shuts off and the unit continues to run without shutting down after a six or eight hour Time cycle , replace the defrost timer . Good luck
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Does not go into defrost mode. refrigerator section becomes hot

The defrost is not working.This happens due to the evaporator coil in the inner section of freezer is got blocked by ice .--------

Try manual defrost reset procedure: ----

First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. It will take near to 4 hours to get run in its proper cooling cycle. Then check, if the problem returns again. If the same problem occurs then it's defrost problem. The defrost board and the defrost thermostat/heater is not functioning properly and it has to be checked and replaced.

--------------------

The procedure of this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the refrigerator section and the refrigerator section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the section, in that section the damper is located. Now this problem which you mentioned. In this problem the freezer thaws, this happens if the thermostat is not functioning or the heater is not heating. Then the ice starts getting collected on the evaporator coil. The evaporator coil is at the internal section of freezer. If too much ice gets collected then this ice blocks the fan in the freezer section from functioning and this blocks the damper section with ice getting collected there. This all procedure is controlled by the defrost board of the unit.

-----------------

So first try reset procedure.If that is not helping then defrost assembly parts are to be checked and replaced.The defrost thermostat is located in the freezer section beside the evaporator coil.The defrost heater is located in the freezer section beside the evaporator coil.And the defrost control board is located in the fridge section.-------------

you can get the required parts from online sites like:---

www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site.---------This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

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Freezer drain may be blocked. Freezer not working effeciently the freezer always icing up

. If the freezer is always icing up , you probably have the problem in your defroster circuit . The refrigerator cycles once every six to eight hours into the defrost mode . This is controlled by the defrost timer. when in this mode , a heating element located close to the evaporator heats up and melts the ice. This heating element will heat up any ice enough to melt It and drain out of the unit. I would check this first .
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From time to time stops working and making a noise like boling water

A refrigerator must defrost 2 - 3 times a day. It does this via the automatic defrost cycle. When the cycle starts alll motors shut off and there is a heating element that is in the evaporator / freezer section of your unit. That heating element melts the ice until the 60 Deg F bi-metal thermostat cycles and terminated the automatic defrost cycle. During the defrost cycle is is normal to hear a hissing sound as the melting ice drips on the heating element assy. Addiionally you may hear coolant gurgles as the unit shuts off to start the defrost cycle and the coolant system equalizes the internal pressures between the pressure and return lines. Again another normal sound. If your unit did not stop to defrost 2 - 3 times a day in a matter of 3 to 4 days you would have a large block of ice in the back of your freezer section and the evaporator fan blades would be hitting that ice block. The freezer would say cool yet probably no longer make ice. Also the fresh food compartment would start warming up. Hopefully this resolves your concerns. If you need more assistance just respond to this post and I will help you.

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Model #PSS26PSSA SS Freezer frequently defrosts and refreezes. When this occurs, the entire ice bin melts into the freezer compartment and refreezes in puddles. Is this a common issue with this model and...

Absolutely not ! There are two types of defrost systems - timer (which relies on compressor run time) and adaptive (newer models) which relies on sensors and an electronic control and will defrost as needed...... During a defrost cycle your comrpessor and evap fan should be off, everything off - and no, a defrost cycle will NOT thaw your food in the freezer, not even your ice should melt ! To me this sounds like a defrost control problem - First thing service should check is your defrost timer and its components (control board, limiter, defrost thermostat, etc.) something is definately wrong.

Now with the advice above I am assuming that before the defrost cycle kicks in your freezer temp was in the normal range 10F and colder (0F is optimal) and refrigerator section cooler than 40F (optimal 34F). If so, then you should not have melting ICE in your freezer.

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I have a GE Top Freezing Refrigerator. The model is GTS12BBMBRWW, if that helps. The refrigerator is constantly leaking. This is because ice constantly accumulates on the top wall of the...

Thanks for listing the complete model number.
Look behind your refrigerator for a tube which comes out at about the level of the top of the fresh foods section, right in the middle, and runs down to the compressor area. Remove the tube, clean it out, clean out any blockages you see in the hole you can now see in the back of the refrig, then replace the drain. It looks like your model has exterior condenser coils on the back. The tube is behind those coils, comming right out of the back wall.
Any blockage / restriction in this drain will cause the defrost water to stay inside the freezer and eventually find it's way into the refrigerator section. (after builing up enough ice to cause the fan blade to hit on it, making alot of noise, or even possibly block the fan blade from turning inside the freezer) If you don't want to dissmantle the entire floor of the freezer to manually defrost the entire refrigerator, you may have to unplug the refrig for an extended time to let it defrost itself. This would take up to several days. It is also possible to speed this up by manually putting your refrigerator into a defrost cycle, although one defrost cycle would most likely not be enough to completely defrost your refrigerator at this time anyway. (when I repair these, I put them in manual defrost and dissassemble to fully melt all the frost and ice off the coils, which are located in the floor of the freezer section of your model) (the defrost control is located at the back center top of the refrigerator section, and has a plastic slotted peg which can be SLOWLY turned with a slot blade screwdriver until it clicks once, resulting in the refrigerator stopping while it turns on the defrost system. It will advance out of defrost in about a half hour. Refrig must be plugged in and turned on for defrost to work.)
Hope that is enough of a suggestion for you.
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