I have a E22078 Wind Vane. How do I check the wiring continuity at the cockpit without climbing the mast? Can I use a multimeter to read impedance up to the wind instrument?

Hi Greg!
What you're looking for is an E22078.
Here is a link from binnacle.ca, but I'm sure you can find them cheaper if you look around.

Hope this helps.
-Steve

RAYMARINE ST60 PLUS WIND TRANSDUCER MASTHEAD E22078

Test all wires for continuity. 90.8 % of problems are caused by faulty wiring.

see the diagram attached. and fix it. Use the multimeter , test the continuity wires for open or broken, repair or replace. Test the coil for speakers with multimeter by impedance( read the ohms in the speaker,read with the multimeter) repair or replace. test the fuse too.
God bless you

Hi.

The problem is either vehicle speed sensor or wiring harness going to sensor. In some case the ECM is defective.

Ensure that you have already replaced the VSS with good ones.

If you have not replaced them yet, then the sensor can be tested reading the waveform. This is done connecting both VSS input and output wires to a machine. The one below is a good VSS wave at 37 mph:




If the waveform is incorrect, the sensors must be replaced, as the ECM returns P0722 when VSS output is incorrect, or when there is no output.

A second test can be done reading the sensor impedance and voltage. Connect a multi-meter to the sensor. Set first on Ohms reading (impedance). A good sensor will read 560-680 Ohms at 20C (68F).
Set multimeter on Volts. Touch rapidly the sensor with a magnet and pull magnet away. The sensor will emit a weak voltage pulse. If that does not happen, then the sensor is broken. Ensure that multimeter is on high volt scale.Voltage will be quite low:


The VSS are located on the wheel shaft. Here a picture:



The VSS is connected to the ECM.

If you have already replaced the sensors you need to check the wiring harness to the ECM.


The wiring harness is tested checking that each wire going to the ECM has continuity. This is done reading impedance between each connector in the sensor , and the respective connector in the ECM. Impedance must be zero or a very low value. If it reads infinity, then the wire is broken.
A second test is done reading impedance between the two different wires at ECM connector. Impedance must be the same as at VSS contacts on sensor. If impedance is zero, then there is a short. Ensure that you choose a proper Ohms scale while doing the test.

If you have already replaced the VSS, repair or replace the wiring harness. The ECM failure returning this code is very uncommon. At most you may have a defective ECM connector.

Regards.

Ginko

Try to identify if the fault is in the masthead unit or the display by using a known good unit ,or masthead or display.
Then have it repaired.

Go on www.raymarine.com and search for a dealer in your area and they will be able to help you. The wind service kit sells for less than $30.

Hi.

Test and eventually replace the Dryer thermal fuse
The fuse is located on the blower wheel cover.
The fuse can be tested using a multimeter.
If the fuse has continuity , then is good.

Test the heating element and the thermostat Thermal cut-off .

Both are tested using a multimeter to read impedance. Set multimeter at Rx1, on Ohms.

To test the element disconnect element and point tester probes at element contact.
If there is no continuity, and the circuit is open, then the element is faulty.

The thermostat can be tested jumping its wires to bypass it, but there are many safety concerns doing this kind of test.
Better disconnecting the thermostat and reading Ohms, as for the element.
At room temp the thermostat must have low impedance, if it goes to infinity, and circuit is open at room temperature, then the thermostat is bad.

If both test good, and you have no heating at all, then it may be a bad electronic control, or a wiring problem.

All test and repair must be done by a technician.

If you need to contact a technician you can call the number listed on the owners manual.

Test and eventually replace the Dryer thermal fuse
The fuse is located on the blower wheel cover.
The fuse can be tested using a multimeter.
If the fuse has continuity , then is good.

Test the heating element and the thermostat Thermal cut-off .

Both are tested using a multimeter to read impedance. Set multimeter at Rx1, on Ohms.

To test the element disconnect element and point tester probes at element contact.
If there is no continuity, and the circuit is open, then the element is faulty.

The thermostat can be tested jumping its wires to bypass it, but there are many safety concerns doing this kind of test.
Better disconnecting the thermostat and reading Ohms, as for the element.
At room temp the thermostat must have low impedance, if it goes to infinity, and circuit is open at room temperature, then the thermostat is bad.

If both test good, and you have no heating at all, then it may be a bad electronic control, or a wiring problem.

All test and repair must be done by a technician.

If you need to contact a technician you can call the number listed on the owners manual.

If electric pad heat element, if gas ck the gas supply line (make sure gas is on). could also be bad gas valve/pilot igniter.

If water is not heating up, parts that must be tested are the heating element, the thermostat , and finally the control assembly and wiring.

T he heating element is tested by reading continuity with a multimeter.

The thermostat can also be tested by reading impedance, that should result over 1Kohm at ambient.

If the multimeter and element read fine, then there is need to test wiring and timer control board. this is done by checking voltages at heating element and reading voltages on control board connectors. A faulty board can also be spotted by visually checking the board for burnt components or leaky and bulged capacitors.