I wondered how long the defrost cycle was supposed to run on this Turbo Air TGF 49F freezer as I am not sure if a door was left ajar or if it is stuck on defrost if possible. I would like to manually over ride the df cycle to ensure the freezer would freeze.

Question edited for greater clarity.
Question moved from 'Power Computers' to Freezers.

Disconnect the mains power for 5 minutes to reset the control board. If that doesn't fix it, call for service.

Hello Deena;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

There is no reset for the alarm. The alarm goes off when you are not maintaining temperature.

During the time the door was ajar, warm air got into the freezer either icing up and locking the cooling fan or forming a block of ice on the cooling coils (Restricting cooling air flow.)

The best thing you can do, unless you want a $300.00 plus service call to defrost everything, is to turn power off to the freezer. Open the freezer door. Have plenty of old towels to soak up the water in the bottom of the freezer as it defrost.

You did not provide a model number which is located on the inside wall of the freezer. Every 8-10 hours your freezer will completely shout down for 20-30 minutes where only the light works and the defrost heater turns on. The ice build up is too much for the defrost heater to handle.

In some freezers the defrost mode is in the control board, in others it is a separate component that you can repeat trip using a flat head screw drive.

our freezer is set to defrost every 8 hours for 15 min. this seem to do the trick. we have a true t-49f reach in freezer. try this setting and see if it works for your situation.

You need a new regulator. get the manufacturer and make and numumbers and look it up and save hundreds putting it in yourself.

[email protected]

Difficult for you to check this I'm afraid, if the fan on the cooling unit is working unless you have an experienced 'ear' you will not hear the compressor running or worse still occasionally clicking.
Possible faults are
1. Compressor not running (the fan will run even if the compressor does not) electrical fault
2. Compressor seized (consult your service guy) also true for the rest of these
3. Compressor not pumping
4. Refrigerant leak

Not much hope for a cheap repair

Most all commercial freezers have some sort of fan delay/ defrost termination device. Commonly called a "Klixon" (pronounced clicks-on). It is a device that is attached to the evap. It's function is to terminate the defrost cycle when the evap reaches a certain temp, say about 50 degrees or so, to ensure there is no build up of frost/ ice on the evap. It then allows the compressor to run, and cool the evap down to a reasonable temp., say about 20 degrees, and then let the evap fan come on. It prevents overloading the compressor during a high temp condition, and it also prevents circulating warm air left from the defrost cycle. I believe this device is most likely your problem. With no air circulating, the box will no cool down.. I have seen them burn and/or slhort internally. They can come apart. too. I would look here for that problem. the True manufacturing website does not give alot of info on this piece of equipment, such as a wiring diagram but manuals are available.
Check this out and let me know how it comes out.

If the door was left ajar for any extended period frost has built up on the cooling coils. A complete defrost of the freezer should take care of the problem. Normally a frost free system will clear the ice from the cooling coil when the defrost time cycle happens. However frost may have built up in areas where the heaters can not readily remove it in a normal defrost cycle and shutting the unit down with the door open for about 24 hours should clear it out.

Check the time setting on the defrost timer. It may not be set to the correct number of minutes for defrost. Compare it with the side that is working properly for the right time of the cycle.

This will not cause a freon leak and it is possible that the door was left open, but to be certain that you don't have a defrost issue, follow the guide below to diagnose any problems. Also the warm walls are normal during compressor run times.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_3.asp
If your freezer cools but doesn't get cold enough, it may have a problem in one of several areas. To better understand the proper operation of a freezer, read about freezers in the How Things Work section of our website.

In a self-defrosting freezer, poor cooling often results from a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel inside your freezer. But if you see any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, ceiling, or floor of your freezer, it's a sure sign of frost build-up. And that's a sign of a problem with the self-defrosting system.

Freezers should self-defrost three to four times in 24 hours. But if a component in the self-defrosting system fails, the freezer continues to try to cool, instead. Eventually, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There's still some cooling because the coils are frozen. But with no air flow over the coils, the cooling is quite limited and the freezer isn't as cold as it needs to be.

An easy (though often inconvenient) test of whether the problem is with the self-defrosting system is to remove all of the perishable food from the freezer, turn the thermostat to Off, and leave the door open for 24 to 48 hours. (Keep several towels handy in case the melting frost and ice overflows the drip pan). This "manually" defrosts the freezer. When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the freezer then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of these components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer. To test this, manually advance to the defrost cycle. The unit should advance itself out of the defrost cycle in about 45 minutes.
  
  
• The defrost thermostat (or bi-metal switch). This thermostat allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees (depending on its design). This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on.
  
  
• The defrost heater. You can test this for continuity using an electrical meter.

If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Your unit should have a defrost timer.The timer may be stuck in a defrost.It should be located at the bottom of the unit next to the compressor.Open the door to the timer and observe the position of the timer.If you turn the knob and the unit starts up,it's the timer. If this is the case, you can purchase a new one at any local a/c supply.Let me know,Mike