Fortress 2000 AT mobility scooter. it won't move and I'm just getting a continuous beep after inserting key.please advise.

SOURCE: 1700 Fortress Scooter won't go forward or

Hi. Has the machine been in regular use before the fault occured? You say that the brake is in brake release mode, this mode is only ever used if you need to push the scooter by hand. It releases the brake on the motor, and also operates a switch to disable the controller from driving the motor. It does this because it would be to dangerous to drive the scooter with the brake disabled.
Move the lever back to its correct position. If it still does not work, then the disable switch might be faulty, or it might be a different fault such as a stuck brush in the motor.
Is this machine produced by shoprider ( Phisang ) of Taiwan.
Please let me know how you get on. Neil.

SOURCE: Electric 3 wheeled mobility scooter wont move

Look at the rear of the scooter, make sure the Free Wheel lever is engaged

wcdoc1953

• 280 Answers
• Posted on Nov 26, 2010

SOURCE: I turn the key on get 10 fast beeps on my GO GO

The Pride Go Go Elite Traveller Plus HD 4 Wheel scooter problem you are describing with 10 fast beeps is that the scooter has "exceeded the push or roll away speed limit" (the scooter service manual is written by an engineer). The second symptom you describe is that you could get the scooter to drive by turning it off and on. By resetting the controller you were able to get the scooter to work for awhile.
This scooter has either an S drive controller or R series controller which has gone bad. By running the serial number you can call the manufacturer and identify which type. The part runs about $500 retail. It may be covered under warranty so it is advisable to call the manufacturer and run the SN first. Pride Mobility Products is at 1 800 800 8586. They can direct you to a local dealer for warranty repair.
While under the rear electronics shroud cover inspecting the controller check for burnt or melted wiring harnesses and connectors and replace those also. The rear cover has velcro attached inserts and well hidden screws that need to be removed first. An experienced tech can do the work in under an hour or you can save some money by doing the repair yourself. If I remember correctly all you need is 2 different size screwdrivers and an open end wrench for the nuts (all metric hardware).
Hope this helps.

SOURCE: We have a Fortress Scientific 2000 electric

Your break release shifter is in the push the scooter mode. Put it back in gear and the horn doesn' beep and it should run..
The horn beeping is the alarm to tell you the break release is on.

It is usually located under the seat on the body of the top of the battery housing. Looks like a stick with a ball on it.

SOURCE: my scooter won't move! i turn the key, plenty of battery power, all lights, horn etc working but will not move forwards or backwards, when i pull the controls all i get is a beep. any thoughts?

Either your parking brake is engaged or if your scooter is more like mine i have a Rascal 600t it gives a code 5 service code when it thinks its in free wheel. Your scooter is dropping into a fail safe mode and is telling you this by beeping. Most scooters have a service light on the tiller head that will flash out the failure code of the failure detected. Does your beep a number of times pause then beep this same pattern. The freewheel mechanism is located on the trans-axle which if you go outside across grass it gets wet. This device doesn't like moister and will get stiff will partially engage or disengage. In that mechanism there is a micro-switch which if the lever when slipped into the engaged position doesn't go all the way to the seated position the switch will see the mechanism as being disengaged [in free wheel] and will inhibit the motor from running. I lubricate the entire assembly with pure silicon spray oil,WARNING, do not use WD-40, It will eat some plastics.After lubricating the lever should move smoothly. I have to lub my scooter about once a month in the winter.

Now if this doesn't work check the connector that are all the wires are connected. Disconnect the connector check the pins are ok reconnect check to see if your still getting the failure. If you are still getting this problem do continuity checks on the wiring. You will need a multimeter only $9
http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-YG188-Pocket-size-analog-multimeter/dp/B00064CH6A/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1339024102&sr=1-8 Check the switch in the freewheel assembly. Select ohms the highest scale, short the leads together, zero the meter by turning the zero adjust knob. There is only one wire we are interested in. On some scooters you can visually see the switch and the wire running from it. The wire usually foes to a spade connector. Disconnect the spade connector put a probe on that connector leading to the switch. Disconnect the battery put other probe on the positive side of the terminals that were connected to the battery not to the battery it side.Work the switch does the meter needle deflect to zero, no, try the negative side. Does the meter deflect, no, put the probes directly on the switch terminals, does the switch.when worked now cause the meter to deflect, no, replace switch, yes, the problem is in the harness, don't panic, use can use that meter to trace the wire through the harness. Wiggling wires and flexing connectors usually makes the meter flick at some point. Thats how i do it i'm never without my trusty meter. Rascal are notorious for having problems of this type my mid-frame harness fell apart in the middle of a six lane intersection, the scooter simply locks up tight .I can do nothing but sit in the middle of this huge intersection. People try to move me but the scooters wheels are locked, my illness makes it so i can't communicate with people do it was a mess. So i modified the connector so its no longer a latch type connector. I drilled it for a quick pin which is much stronger than what its using now. Hope this helps