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Wire both hot wires together and both ground wires together then wire them to the amp with the hot on one speaker output and the ground on the other speaker ground. This puts them in the bridged position. Pulls the maximum watts out the amp and unbelievable sound.
could be over heating check to be sure speaker wires are both on ground to ground and poss to poss also could be a poor main ground or to small of power wires good luck with it. i hope this helps
If it is the amplifier that is shutting on and off:
Check to make sure the power and ground wires for the amp are secure, with no fraying, knicks or exposed wire. Check your fuses and connections to make sure everything is correct.
Also look at the grounding location. be sure there is exposed metal around the grounding point (paint may cause intermittent power problems).
Lastly, the amplifier's remote wire may be improperly secured to the wiring harness. Check the harness for exposed wire grounding out connections.
If the amplifier is continuously on, the subwoofer may be to blame. Check and double check wiring schematics to ensure correct ohms rating.
There are 4 possible causes for the amp to go into protection mode. Kicker calls it SORT for Short, Overvoltage, Reverse polarity, and Thermal. If the amp has been in and working properly, it's probably not reverse polarity. And if it goes immediately into protection when power is connected, I'd rule out thermal. So it's probably either a short or overvoltage.
1) Start by removing the speaker wires and see if the amp powers up properly. If it does, one or more of the speakers is shorted or grounded.
2) Test each pair of wires with a multimeter set to the lowest resistance (ohms) scale. Measure across each pair and from each individual wire to ground. Across each pair, the meter should read about 3-4 ohms. From each individual wire to ground, it should read infinity. If the meter reads "0" ohms (shorted) in any test, you have located the problem.
3) If the speaker wires test OK, set the meter to read DC volts and measure the voltage at the amp positive terminal. If the voltage is higher than 16V or lower than 9V, you've located the problem.
4) If the voltage is OK, remove the RCA inputs and test for proper power up. If it powers up without going into protection, you have a shorted/grounded input. Replace them one at a time to determine which one(s) is/are defective and replace the cable.
If these tests show all the wiring is good and the voltage is OK, the amp is probably shorted internally (most likely an output MOSFET), and requires service at the component level. You need to take it to your local audio shop or send it to Kicker for repair.
USE THE FOR CH RUN ALL THE SPEAKER THE MEANS TWO RCA ONE FOR FRONT AND ONE FOR REAR INTO THE AMP AND NON-FADE REAR-FOR YOUR SUB --POWER FOR EQ--[POWER 'REMOTE AND GROUND]
there is also the possiblity of a ground potential problem you could try running a wire from the ground point of the amp to the rear of the head unit, in this way both components have the same ground potential....second , I would take the ground loose a the point you have connected to the vehicles chassis , i then would prepare the surface by sanding a quarter <25 cent piece> area and using two washers and nylon insert lock nut, and a bolt to securely fasten your ground ,,,,also I would use a grounding wire equal too or 2x teh ga you are using for your power < battery > cable.....and lastly I would reduce the input sensitivity to your amplifier, because if u have them turned up < more sensitive> the amp will amplify abient electrical noise present in your vehicle... if this helps let me know , if it does not let me know...
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