Question about JBL (JBLRADIALWHT) Speaker System, Docking Station Adapter for Apple iPod

4 Answers

Jbl radial micro - how to open up?

My model has a rubber mat underneath - remove it and there are no screws. No visible means of opening it up; anyone know?

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  • ken king Dec 28, 2013

    i have the white JBL micro ll, my second one, and recently noticed poor quality sound which promted research here as to how to open it up. Having discovered this not, i then reasoned that there must be screws hidden.knowing that no screws resided beneath the cover screen, then they have to be on the bottom, underneath the circular rubber platform.giggidy giggidy.....3 screws under, use a PH0 screw driver. then, you'll find 4 holding the mid section, then 2 holding the tube for bass response, then 2 holding the speaker. be careful of the tar type glue and also mindful of the seal around the circumference. reassembled, the unit sounds better than before and can only guess that the rumble i heard was that of a speaker improperly placed during initial assembly/manufacture. hope this helped!

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I have a two JBL radial and stage micro, both with the same loose connection problem after two years. The stage micro was simpler to open and it was necessary just to re-soldering the connector. Now, it is working great. Regarding the Radial, this is another history… as explained in this forum, everything is glued. I was unable to access the circuit board following the explanation posted by other persons. In fact, the plastic cover with the JBL printed logo is glued and also has two screws. Unfortunately, you will need a good time, some hours in fact, to open the Radial. The best way is remove the back mesh screen. You will need a hair dryer to soft the glue and using a small screwdriver you will need to pull out carefully all the screen. From there, you will be able to access the screws. It will be necessary to unscrew and unglue different parts if you don’t want to scratch the Radial body.

Posted on May 26, 2010

  • 5 more comments 
  • obrinkmann Jan 05, 2011

    Hi - I was able to remove the wire mesh, removed the screws, loosened the adhesive of the "JBL saddle". But it appears there is something "stronger" to hold the saddle in place. I am not able to find the two screws that hold the saddle in place. Could you please describe how you got to those ones?? Cheers

  • henrik-fixya Feb 06, 2011

    I just opened up my jbl. What a pain. They glued everything.

    There is no screw holding the sadle.just 4 plastic "claws". the ones at the back came lose pretty easily. The ones in front were VERY hard to loosen. They are on the sides of the cradle and thus don't bend easily. What worked for me was to
    lift the front part of the saddle a bit and put a match underneath so that the part with the JBL logo wouldn't stick that easily again.
    Pull out the power button. (it is just a plastic cap)
    Lift the sadle starting from the back and
    slide two broad flat screwdrivers from the behind underneath the saddle a long the sides to the front.
    Half way there are two bolts going down from the saddle. I first mistook them for screws but there is just LOTS of glue around them. When you got them to the sides of the cradle you twist the screwdrivers to lift the saddle.

    I felt like I would break the thing any minute but it survived. Still, I am not sure if i will be able to fix the connector ... all in all hardly worth the time it took...

  • obrinkmann Feb 06, 2011

    Hi henrik-fixya

    Thanks for the extra information. I'll now give it a second shot hoping the saddle won't break. Hope you can fix the connector and the unit will work again for you.

  • fattyowls
    fattyowls Jan 06, 2013

    I think there must be different versions of this product. The saddle on mine was held on by 4 screws. I managed to dismantle mine as described below:

  • fattyowls
    fattyowls Jan 06, 2013

    Just had to do this to mine, the ipod connector fell off ! What a pain this device is. It is now apart, and next job is to re solder the connector. To get apart I first removed the rubber pad on the base (peeled it off), then unscrewed the bottom plate, & wriggled it out from the side supports. Then used a hair drier to warm up the metal screens, then carefully prised them off with several small screwdrivers. The back came off more easily than the front, as it has a break along the bottom. Then I removed all the visible screws. The back could then be separated from the front, again using small screwdrivers to prise them apart. This revealed the horse shoe shaped circuit board, & some more screws. all screws were removed, but the circuit board is covering two at the top, so, I unplugged the connectors from the circuit board (after prising the glue away) then swung the board to one side, & unscrewed the remaining screws. This allowed the centre tunnel to be moved enough to reach the screws holding the "bridge" to it. Removed the bridge screws, & prised the bridge from the centre tunnel. The final stage was to prise the plastic cover (on the bridge underside) away from the bridge main (try not to strain the flat cables going to the + & - volume switches) the top PCB can then be removed after unplugging the two connectors, & removing 4 more small screws. Whew ! Lets hope I can remember how to put it back together.

  • fattyowls
    fattyowls Jan 07, 2013

    OK, soldered the connector back on - not easy - the metal lugs only go about half way through the circuit board, which is probably why these things break so easily. anyway all soldered as firmly as possible, I will now run some epoxy under, & around the connector to further strengthen it. then to re-assemble !

  • fattyowls
    fattyowls Jan 08, 2013

    All back together ! Was not too bad, it was fairly obvious where all the screws went. A hair drier was required to soften the glue around the mesh screens - heat them up up, then push into position, & hold while the glue cooled down.

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I had the same problem. You can access the top of the circuit board by very carefully peeling off the saddle-like part that has "JBL" printed on it and contains the volume control. It is glued on by two adhesive strips under the top. The adhesive strips start just behind each volume control button and run toward the rear. Good luck repairing the connector - metal pins guide it into place on the board, but the connections are very fine and hard to reconnect - I'm not sure if they just rely on pressure contact or if they have very fine solder or some kind of conductive adhesive. I could not make the dock work consistently, but the audio input still functions.

To further disassemble the unit, you have to remove the mesh screen on the back side of the unit, then you can access the screws that hold the two halves of the donut together. I was able to do that by prying on the bottom edge with a knife. The screen is glued in place and has some little tabs as well.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

  • fattyowls
    fattyowls Jan 06, 2013

    Just had to do this to mine, the ipod connector fell off ! What a pain this device is. It is now apart, and next job is to re solder the connector. To get apart I first removed the rubber pad on the base (peeled it off), then unscrewed the bottom plate, & wriggled it out from the side supports. Then used a hair drier to warm up the metal screens, then carefully prised them off with several small screwdrivers. The back came off more easily than the front, as it has a break along the bottom. Then I removed all the visible screws. The back could then be separated from the front, again using small screwdrivers to prise them apart. This revealed the horse shoe shaped circuit board, & some more screws. all screws were removed, but the circuit board is covering two at the top, so, I unplugged the connectors from the circuit board (after prising the glue away) then swung the board to one side, & unscrewed the remaining screws. This allowed the centre tunnel to be moved enough to reach the screws holding the "bridge" to it. Removed the bridge screws, & prised the bridge from the centre tunnel. The final stage was to prise the plastic cover (on the bridge underside) away from the bridge main (try not to strain the flat cables going to the + & - volume switches) the top PCB can then be removed after unplugging the two connectors, & removing 4 more small screws. Whew ! Lets hope I can remember how to put it back together.

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My name is Dis.
I had a problem with my JBL radial,my little brother had broken the connector of this station.i looked for some information how to open this devil machine :D to repair it. Followed the lots of solutions...have taken out all 20 screws which are lokated underneath. But I only found the subwoofer ... And I thought that this is the end(((( then I followed the tradition Russian method,tried to do smth with the help of a screwdriver. And I succeeded. Near the connector,there are two holes. Used the screwdriver like a lever and opened the plug which is around the connector. And here it is! I've got the access to the dock board.)))and the last what i need to do is to use soldering to braze connector's contacts)))) good luck)) if you have any questions,write me an e-mail,i'll try to help you))jbl radial micro - how to open up? - 530fcf8d-19af-4e55-9dba-93ab25964318.jpg 7d671d56-86d9-4ca0-b9a2-cb15739c00d4.jjbl radial micro - how to open up? - eed99471-a745-4650-b53b-2cb319d60280.jpgixya.net/uploads/images/eed99471-a745-4650-b53b-2cb319d60280.jpg

Posted on Mar 30, 2014

  • Denis
    Denis Mar 30, 2014

    den955@yandex.ru

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HiI have a Apple Hi Fi Ipod Dock...Model A1121 and after several seconds itstops there is no power.If i pull the battery's out en put them back in than i have power for a sec.How can i open the docking???

Posted on Aug 10, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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