Lx30c pumps sanitizer up to the inlet but fails test

Washer fills with water and overflows:

The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective.

You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED).


The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board.













Washer will not drain:

Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for "Replace Washing Machine Drain Pump" then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement.

Warning you may have to test electrical circuits with the power live .Is there water flowing into the connection on the unit ? If not look for shutoffs or a crimped supply line. If you have water pressure You will need to know how to an electrical tester or multi meter to test the water inlet valve. You can test for voltage on the solonoid while someone activates the switch for water If you have voltage when the switch is activated the inlet valve could be bad or the tubing feeding the dispenser is frozen or pinched you can loosen the water line that goes to the refrigerator to check for flow with switch activated If you have no flow replace inlet valve if you have flow check that the waterline is not frozen crimped or pinched.If no voltage appeared during the voltage test , Test the switch and wiring and repair as necessary.

What type of detergent is not necessarily important - anything intented for use in commercial dishwashers should be sufficient. A restaurant supply store should have something suitable for you.
Also, in case you don't already know, the LX30C is the non-booster-heater version of the LX30 (LX30H has a booster heater). Without a booster heater, you'll need to use chemical sanitizer. The LX30C should, hopefully, have a sanitizer pump installed to inject chemical sanitizer into the rinsewater stream. Most of these dishwashers also have a detergent pump to inject detergent into the wash tank and rinse aid pump for chemical rinse aid.
If present, these pumps are located in the bottom of the machine. Remove the lower front panel (2 screws) and look for the small, black plastic assemblies with 2 hoses connected to each.

Your sanitizer wont" go through the line , the best and the cheapest way is to change the 3 squeeze tubing together, or if you like you can change the one you know is defective. You have to know the 3 pump is working when the cycle is on. Let it run a complete cycle and you can see the pumps running or not. If the pump is not running then you may have a burned out motor in your samitizer system.

Check if the volume of water supplied to the washer from the water line through the hoses attached to it is good. If yes, the screen inside the water-inlet valve if it is clean. If clean, the water inlet valve is defective and you need to replace it. The water inlet valve is located inside the washer on the upper back portion. It is where the water supply hoses are attached to.

I thought it was designed for domestic bleach at 5.25%, and looking for a solution of 50 ppm of sanitizer and rinse water. Either the elbow is blocked, or the silicone tube in the pump has collapsed. Use rubber gloves and face protection when working on chemical tubing.

Look on the top edge of the door to find the data plate. It sounds like an SR24, if the leds are on the left of two temp gauges. If your sanitizer pump has a tired silicone tube that is flattened from use, it will not draw chemical. if you have an air bubble in the sense board at the back, it will think you have run out. If you have changed the type of chemical or diluted it, the board will need recalibrating to suit. Put some sanitizer in a small vessel with the pickup tube and monitor the amount delivered. Usually one is looking for 50 ppm solution of bleach and rinse water.( test with litmus paper) If you have an SR24H with a booster, you don't need bleach sanitizer and holding the sanitizer button will turn the sense off.

HI, this is a sure bet that the impeller in the pump housing is damaged. that sound you are hearing is the impeller. the drive shaft has stripped the impeller. You will need to replace this damaged pump asap if possible.

Hopefully you took the suggestion to run the correct 50 amp 208-240 service to the unit.

Converting the unit to an LX30C has a couple of pitfalls. The LX30C is connected directly to the incoming water supply, which should run 120-140 degrees. By reprogramming the unit as an LX30C, the booster would be disabled, which would mean the incoming water would flow through the de-energized booster and be cooling off while it sits in there between cycles and when the unit is shut down.

The incoming fill plumbing (5/8" heater hose) would have to reconnected from the fill solenoid valve directly to the vacuum breaker on the rear of the unit to bypass the booster heater.

On the 208-240 volt LX18/30/40's, the pump motor, booster heater, and sump heater run on 208-240. To convert it to 120 volts you would have to replace the sump heater and reconfigure the motor wiring in the motor junction box.

By the time this is all done, you've downgraded a great machine, confused the next service guy, and have to deal with nasty chlorine and all of it's headaches.

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it could be the soap dispensing were the hoses connect in the manifold there could be a build that formed and those not let the soap go true take the manifold out clear the hole and it should be ok