Maytag dryer model #mde6657byw wont heat replaced heat element,high limit thermostat,heater thermal fuse,thermal fuse for motor run- what else could it be

Hello
Check high limit thermostat continuity. If ok ,Check for voltage at thermostat side of the heater element.If voltage present timer ok.Most likely centifugal switch at motor.Motor has to be running for element to work.

It's all fixable!

in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when the dryer stops heating and the thermal fuse is not part of the heating circuit, it is part of the motor circuit. The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dryers with lint filter on the front.


Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

The problem when the dryer runs but doesn't heat is usually caused by a failed high-limit thermostat and a blown thermal cut-off both located on the heater housing. Verify this by bypassing both parts for troubleshooting purposes then running the dryer.

Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the bottom front panel to the bottom flange of the cabinet. Slide the panel down and off the cabinet to access the heater housing.



Remove the hex-head screw from the heater shield and remove the shield.


Disconnect the red wire from the thermal cut-off and the red/white stripe wire from the heater. Connect the red wire disconnected from the thermal cut-off to the heater terminal where the red/white stripe wire is disconnected from.


Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed with the two bypassed components if the dryer heats up. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat and it should solve the heating problem. Do not use the dryer with those parts bypassed due to high risk of fire hazards. Let us know should you need further advice.

maybe thermal or other things, this should help Tim:

fusehttp://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing while the thermal cut-off is located on the heater housing. If the dryer is electric, runs but doesn't heat, the thermal fuse is not the problem; otherwise the dryer will not run because the thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and cuts power to the motor when it fails. The problem could the heating element, high-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off, or cycling thermostat. These components can be found in the blower housing and the heater housing depending on the model of the dryer. Specify the model number of the dryer for a more specific advice.

This sounds like a faulty thermal fuse or heating element. The fact that you said the dryer has been running hot could indicate that the heating element was making contact with the heater box or the high limit thermostat is faulty. Both the thermal fuse and heating element can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter and checking for continuity. A lack of continuity means a faulty component. When necessary to replace a thermal fuse it is best to change the high limit thermostat as well. They will sometimes come as a set from a parts supplier. Really sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

Check voltage at the receptacle first. The motor and timer operate on 120VAC. The heating element requires 208/240VAC to operate. Remove power from the unit. You can check the heating element, thermostats and thermal fuses using an ohm meter across each components terminals with one wire removed. The thermal fuses and thermostats should read zero ohms. The heating element will read low ohms (20 to 40). Successful heater operation still depends on the motor centrifugal switch being closed. Depending on the model, you need the heat circuit in the timer or electronic control to be closed.
I hope this helps you.

pry the top up at the corners and remove attaching screws for the front panel and remove carefully. Now you should be able to see the canister that contains the heat element and the thermal fuse. If your thermal fuse is bad you also need to replace the high limit thermostat switch which is located on the canister itself and check that the heating element is not broken anywhere throughout the coil.