Question about Bose Audio Players & Recorders
Converting a 12-hour time to 24-hour time is straight forward, though confusing. From 1:00 PM to 11:59 PM you add 12 hours, and from 12:00 AM (midnight) to12:59 AM you subtract 12 hours. Or you can simply use the following calculator toconvert to or from either system.
Posted on Jul 16, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Bose Life style Model 5
I just went through a similar problem. Everything on the LifeStyle 5 receiver worked fine but no display. Mine is the version "2V" as shown on the serial number label on the bottom. I just replaced the C17 capacitor with a 47uF / 35V one from Radio Shack. For those of you who have been searching for a solution you've probably noticed that for the other console version you'll either have to replace the C16 or C19. For myself on the "2V" version it was the C17.
Note, I have never really done anything electrical like this before and it IS possible to do yourself (actually helps if you have a second set of hands at times).
Supplies from Radio Shack -
Here's what I did....
1. Remove the 4 screws on the back panel with a philips head screwdriver.
2. Remove the main cover (non-cd side). Use a small flathead screwdriver to push in the 3 gray tabs on the back panel and lift up so that it prys open toward the front of the unit. Take this main cover off.
3. Remove the cover on the cd side. Use that small flathead screwdriver to push in the 2 black tabs on the back panel and lift up so that it prys open toward the front of the unit. Take this cd cover off. Both top covers should now be off so you're looking at the circuit boards.
4. Remove the top circuit board. It is just held in by a few tabs. Note, I didn't disconnect any wires, ribbons, etc. I just removed the circuit board from the tabs that keep it secure and let it rest loosely on top.
5. Remove the bottom circuit board. I found this to be the trickiest step and needed an extra set of hands to hold up the top circuit board while I worked my fingers around the bottom circuit board to release it from the tabs. I also used pens (hey, at least I'm honest) as levers to keep the bottom circuit board from falling back down and getting re-secured by the tabs. Part of my problem was not recognizing there was an additional tab in the middle of the circuit board holding it down. Just be patient and keep working it. Probably took me like 10-15 minutes just to get this board removed from the tabs. Again, like the top circuit board, I didn't disconnnect any wires, ribbons, etc. I just removed the circuit board from the tabs that keep it secure.
6. Remove the C17 capacitor. Flip over the bottom circuit board and double check to make sure you're about to remove the correct capacitor. The C17 is located near the bottom left of the circuit board. (Someone else gave me the tip to make sure that when I put in the new capacitor I had the proper polarity. I'll revisit this in the next step, but at the time I was about to remove the existing C17 I just put a mark on the outside of the capacitor so I knew how it was aligned on the board. I used copper desolder braid and the soldering iron to remove the solder from the existing capacitor. I then just pulled the existing capactor out and the holes in the circuit board looked clear.
7. Install the new C17 capacitor. I noticed that the capacitors had a different color vertical band on them. Right or wrong, I used this as a guide for me to determine the polarity when installing the new one. I just put the new one in the same way as the old one (with respect to where this different colored band was and the mark I had made on the old one) and pulled the leads through the holes in the circuit board until it seemed tight enough against the circuit board. I bent the leads back (but not broken off) to hold it in place while I soldered the connection. Once I finished soldering the connection I cut off the excess from the leads with wire cutters.
8. Test the display. You don't need to re-secure the circuit boards to test it out. I believe I just flipped it over and connected the FM antenna and the AC power cords to their respective connections in the back and it worked!
9. Reassemble the console. This was much easier than the disassembly and was essentially the steps above in reverse order. Just put the bottom circuit board back in and secure it with the tabs (including the one in the center). Then do the same for the top circuit board. Put the cd cover back on until it snaps into the tabs. Do the same for the main cover. Put the 4 screws back in and you're done! Good luck!
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
If you have no sound from any source (CDs and radio included) then check the Audio Input cable at the back of the media center. Make sure it's plugged into the top portion of the 'speakers' section into where it says "main" and not "BoseLink"
If this is fully connected, but still no audio- check to make sure your Acoustimass module (subwoofer on the floor) is plugged into a working power outlet. If that fails, try unplugging both power cords for the system for about 30 seconds.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
SOURCE: Bose Life styles NTSC to PAL
First, using the remote Turn the unit off.
Then, using the remote Turn the unit on.
Next, Press the [System] button
Next, Press the [Right] Arrow (once)
Next, Press the [Down] Arrow (4 times)
Next, Press the [Right] Arrow (once)
Next, Press the [Up] Arrow (once)
Next, Press [Enter]
Last, Press the [System] button
Posted on Mar 22, 2010
1st make it sure the volts of your speaker...buy same volts power supply according to you speaker ..
example: 12v 1.0 ampere safe...
Posted on May 25, 2010
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