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Below are some links, courtesy of www.repairclinic.com, that will assist you in diagnosing/repair of your dryer. You may have to enter your model number in the search box to access some of the information.
Idler pulley
Dryers have a tension or idler pulley that keeps tension on the main drive belt. When it's worn, it can be noisy. When that happens, don't lubricate it. Just replace it.
Glides
Many dryers use nylon or plastic glides at the front of the clothes drum for support. When these are worn, they can be noisy. When that happens, replace them.
Rear drum bearing
Some dryers support the clothes drum in the rear with a center spindle instead of rollers. The spindle may be a ball-and-socket type support or a shaft through a sleeve. When the components are worn, they may squeak, squeal, or rub. You can't repair them. Just replace them when they're worn.
Blower wheel
Your dryer's blower wheel pulls air over the heat source, through the clothes drum, and past the thermostats, then pushes it out the exhaust duct. The blower wheel, which is usually plastic, may wear out over time. But if it's noisy, it may simply be clogged with lint. Clean the blower and test to see if the dryer is still noisy. If it is, you probably need to replace it.
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It is a Gas Dryer, so it can only be worked on by a qualified gas service engineer. Easy to fix Miss Carroll, it is a slipping belt or a dry drum bearing.
Tell them make and model and that it is squealing. They should bring the parts to fix in one visit.
That squeal is a wheel. Most likely the one closest to the heating source. I use a product called zoomspout oil because it is safe for dryers. Your dryer has glides on it similar but not exactly like this. check and see if they need to be replaced. They pinch and bind when the plastic wears out. If that belt gets down in the tub groove you is gonna have trouble. The slick side goes to the tub on this puppy also.
You probably have worn front bearing slides, 316 and 313 in the diagram. You may also have a worn rear bearing 3106 in diagram.
Slide putting knife between front panel and top near edges to release clips to gain acess to internals.
The process for changing the tail light bulbs for a 2003 New Beetle TDI is relatively simple.
To remove the lens and gain access
to the bulbs you first need to release the lens holder from inside the
trunk by completely unscrewing the large plastic wing nut that is under
a round plastic panel that's located almost directly behind the rear
brake light lens.
To gain access to the plastic wing nut remove the
round panel by gently prying it off. After this is done you release the lens by using something flat like screwdriver to pry and
release the clip that holds the lens in place. Locating the clip: The
rear fender has two seams that end at the light lens, the inboard seam
(the one closest to the hatch)is where you want to insert the table
knife to pry the metal clip that holds the lens in place.
Gently and
carefully insert the flathead screwdriver directly at the seam and pry upward to
release the lens. Once the clip releases pull the lens the rest of the
way and remove the bulbs by turning the bulb holder sockets counter-clockwise. After this is done remove bulbs by slightly pushing
down on the bulb and turning it counter-clockwise.
To reinstall is
reverse of the removal the procedure. When re-installing take care to
clock the lens where the metal clip and the lens protrusions end up
in the same position as before. Note: you may need to assist sliding
the lens retaining clip in with the screwdriver when reinstalling!
Check behind the control panel for mounting screws for the top panel to the main chassis and remove them. Then using a putty or butter knife release the two clips inside the FRONT of the top panel about 3 inches from the corners by pressing FIRMLY against EACH clip and lifting EACH side of the top until it is free. After releasing the two clips the top should pivot up so that you have access to the drum.
Reassemble when complete and turn on power.
(Top locking clips.. just press down on the front corners.. if the clips don't quite clear.. depress them and push down on each corner to lock them.)
I'm haveing the same problem with my frididaire gas dryer. I replaced the ignitor and cleaned the inside parts with a vacume and still having similar problems as yours. I think I will replace the temp. sensor that is attached to the flame tube inside the dryer next. To gain access to the inside parts you will need a putty knife to release the top panel. Just slide the putty knife along the top seam in front of the drryer. There are 2 clips that realease the top peice. With the top lifed up you will see 2 phillips head screws attaching the front panel to the dryer. Remove those screws and lift upwards and the front panel will lift right off the unit.carefully place the front panel to the side without damageing any wires attached. Then all your gas assembly parts will be visable in the bottom left cornner of the unit.
If the dryer model number begins with 417, the drum is supported by a ball bearing in back, and a seal and glides up front. Often, the bearing will become very dry, either from years of use, or from excessive lint blowing up into the bearing. If the bearing isn't cracked or otherwise noticeably bad, you can usually solve the issue simply by lubing the bearing with a high temp grease. While the machine is apart...(a major pain in the butt), make sure to check the condition of the seal and glides on the front panel, and replace the belt if it looks at all cracked or frayed. If this dryer is not a 417 and/or does not have a rear bearing, it's best to get a maintainance kit (belt, idler pulley and drum rollers) and install all the aforementioned parts, as they are the most likely source of screech. Also, check the motor by spinning the shaft manually with the belt off....if that is squeeking, it's motor time.
the noise is coming from the drum axle bushing that allows the drum to spin on it's axle. Gain access to the rear of machine and apply some high temperature grease that is found in automotive parts stores to the bushing. run it while observing spinning drum at rear for any possible other problem where squeal can be found such as drum slides.
First, UNPLUG YOUR DRYER! Now open the dryer door and remove the 2 screws at the door hinges... remove the door and set aside, then remove the 2 screws opposite the hinges. Grasp the front panel near the top, just below the top panel and pull it toward you... do this on both sides. Tilt the panel forward then lift it off of the lower clips.
With the front panel gone, you'll see a 5/16" screw just below the top panel on both sides, top left and right. Remove these and the clips too... now you can lift the top panel like the hood of your car.
To gain further access, remove the 6 (3 on each side) screws holding the front drum support/blower vent panel, then set this aside.
If you want to remove the drum... first, take a flashlight and look closely at how the belt is routed around the idler pulley and the motor shaft. (You'll have to re-route it for reassembly.) Reach in there with both hands, with one hand rotate the spring loaded idler pulley back to release tension off the belt, then with the other hand remove the belt from the motor shaft. Now lift and pull the drum out the front of the cabinet.
Check to make sure the rollers in the back rotate freely. You can remove the rollers, buff the roller shafts with emery cloth, lube the shaft with light oil (like sewing machine oil) and reinstall the rollers. Lube the idler pulley also. Rotate the motor by hand and listen for the squeak you described.
Also check the front drum support panel you removed earlier. The drum rides on this as it rotates... As you are looking at the drum support from the drum side, inspect the 10 o'clock to the 2 o'clock area closely. If the glides (teflon) are worn it'll squeak when it rotates.
Hope this helps. Oh yeah! Almost forgot.... the belt won't squeak at all. It'll be the motor, rollers or drum glides.
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