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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vufekxTVZd8
Jun 22, 2012 - Uploaded by Brad Clark
My last test run of this motor lead me to believe I had fuel pumpissues...so in ... Mercury 9.8 h.p. 110 Outboard Motor WaterPump Repair and ...
Open gas tank vent, pump primer bulb until it is firm, raise hi-idle lever full up, push the key in and hold it in while turning it to "start".
If you can flood your engine with the primer bulb, then your carbs need rebuilding. Pump the bulb until it is firm - that fills the carb bowls - they have a float valve that closes when full. This is true of every carbureted 2-stroke outboard ever made.
"Pumping the throttle" is useless - these are not automotive carburetors - all it does is open and close the butterfly valves.
Your motor does not have conventional choke plates; instead it has a primer solenoid, which opens a valve and allows fuel to drain into the cylinders to richen up the mixture for cold starts. You should hear the solenoid "click" when you push the key in.
Bad compression leads to hard cold starts - you should have at least 100 PSI in all cylinders, and the lowest needs to be within 5% of the highest.
If you have good compression and spark on all cylinders, the primer solenoid actuates, and the fuel line holds pressure, then you need to remove your carburetors, dissasemble, soak overnight in carb cleaner, blow out passages with compressed air (or aerosol carb cleaner), reassemble with new kits (including new o-rings, gaskets, and float valves & seats), reinstall, link & sync, and adjust slow-speed mixture
The hose with the fuel filter will go to the bottom of the carb, the top hose off the carb will go to the inlet of the primer and the primer outlet will return to the tank
yes. OR you have an air leak in the fuel system. Easy way to tell is with a clear fuel line between the fuel pump and the carb. If you see bubbles, you are looking at a new fuel line connector or aire leak at the fuel pump. If you pump up pressure with out the motor running A fault may leak gas.
This is an ongoing issue for users, and rightfully so. Small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then pushes any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Years ago on 2-stroke trimmers, primers were not even used,...you choked the carb with a slide lever and gravity let fuel enter the carb from above...a few pulls, a "pop"...slide it off of choke and away you went. If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank. Please vote on this solution.
When you prime/puge your carburetor, make sure fuel (w/ no air) is moving from the fuel tank towards the body of the carb. Also, make sure that there is fuel/air bubbles leaving the primer bulb and going back towards the fuel tank...and that when you push the bulb down and release it, there is no fuel movement in either line. If fuel does move when letting up on the bulb, you either have the fuel lines reversed or, the check valves in the primer base assembly are not functioning. The primer/puge valve's funcion is to draw fresh fuel into the fuel pump side of the carb and to push old fuel/air from the metering chamber side of the carb back to the fuel tank. Here is proper fuel routing: This is an ongoing issue for users, and rightfully so. Small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then pushes any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Years ago on 2-stroke trimmers, primers were not even used,...you choked the carb with a slide lever and gravity let fuel enter the carb from above...a few pulls, a "pop"...slide it off of choke and away you went. If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.
you need to plurge you carb and make sure your choke is working the way u plurge your carb is pull the drain screw on the bottom of carb and pump yuor hand ball on your fuel line this will run any excess oil,water or crude out of the carb you need to check you idle by pulling the throtle cable off and turn the brass or black barrel to the right to up the idle if that doesnt work you need to pull the carb and run a peice of a wire wheel through the pilot jet witch is the smallest brass jet in carb if that jet is cloged it will not idle
I'd be checking fuel flow. Usually if you have to choke or squeeze a primer bulb to keep it going, the motor isn't getting enough fuel. Check all fuel lines and connections are air tight, then if problem persists, investigate fuel pump.
A good carburettor cleanout and new carb overhaul kit wont hurt either.
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