Does the air pressure relief/unloaded hiss after the compressor stops on its own?
The tube between the pump and tank should release the pressure when it stops on satisfied pressure switch.
The pressure switch may have a 1/4" tube on a valve that opens and hisses making the pump ready to start
The tubes connect to the tank check valve, this check valve when bad just drains the tank thru the pressure relief at the switch.
Sounds like you need a higher current circuit. When a motor starts up, there is a higher than normal current draw, usually 2x to 4x the running current. When it starts up against cut in pressure, there is even more resistance and hence more current draw than when starting up against no pressure in the tank. So, your circuit is capable of providing startup current with no presure, but with pressure it is drawing more current and tripping the beaker. Don't just put a higher rated circuit hreaker in unless you want to buern down your house. Get an electrician to measure the starting current of your compressor and wire up a circuit and outlet that will handle that current safely. That said, the advertising for the compressor says it can run on a standard (15 amp) household circuit, so your motor may be drawing excessive current. Either way, an electrician can help you. Another option is to add capacitive start to the compressor, but, again, a good electrician will have the solution.
SOURCE: My craftsman air compressor model 919 16737 1.1 hp
Probably the check valve has failed. It apparently is where the pipe goes into the tank from the compressor.
SOURCE: My 33 gallon air compressor will at start build up
Most likely it is the unloader valve. This is inline with the air filltube from compressor to tank. Somestimes the unloader valve is screwed into the tank and air tube is attached to it. This device takes the pressure out of the tube so the compressor can start without the back pressure from in the tank. Other possibility, the start capacitors of the motor. The capacitors must give a kickstart upon startup or the motor will just hum for a couple seconds and overload the breaker. A tempoary solution is to turn off the power to compressor when it reaches 120psi, then allow the pressure to drop to 40 or less, then turn power on and mostlikey compressor will start with a load of 40psi or less. It is a nuisance but it works until you replace the bad part. Goodluck,Macgivor
SOURCE: I have an Ingersoll Rand
When the compressor comes up to pressure and kicks off, you should normally hear a gasp of air escaping. That gasp is the release of pressure from the compressor itself - not the tank, and it is supposed to get released so that the compressor can restart without being preloaded with compressed air. My guess is that the gasp is not happening. It is probably some debris or a gummy mechanism. The mechanism is supposed to be triggered by the same mechanism that shuts off the motor.
SOURCE: porter cable 3hp air compressor
Hi,
Check to see if the switch will kick in if the pressure is released from the hose going to activate it...if so then the problem is the air being trapped between a check valve and the switch in the hose...
I think that is your problem...
There should be a way for the air pressure to change and represent the tank air pressure accurately....
The different compressors all have different ways of checking the air and then allowing it to release as the the tank pressure decreases..
There is a small hole there somewhere that is clogged with dirt and or oil...find that and clean it and you are in business again...
heatman101
Your tank check valve is stuck/broke. It's on the tank end of the line from the pump to the tank. It is supposed to close when the pump stops to keep air in the tank and let the system bleed pressure out of the pump so the motor can start when there is pressure in the tank. The part you need is CAC-437-2 and is available through searspartsdirect.com.
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