I am looking for a fan control knob for this unit at our hospital

without knowing age of unit, I suggest replacing the motor. Sounds like the armature is worn the bearings and is moving inside the windings of the motor. I would do that first before moving forward with any other repairs.

Hello .. you should be able to find a replacement for your fan control at any building supply store, a home depot type store. Look or ask for a variable speed fan control. This is slightly different from a normal liight dimmer . You might also look for a replacement knob before replacing the whole switch, or matbe getting a replacement just to replace the knob ..

I am assuming you are referring to the cooling fan on the motor. If not and talking about inside fan jump to paragraph titled INSIDE FAN below. There are three fuse panels on top of the battery and one on the drivers side of car inside door on dash panel. Be sure and check the inside fuses first. There should be a fuse map card on the door to the fuse panel that tells you which location the FAN fuse is in. After that point look at the battery panel and the connections should have what appear to be flat silver pieces of metal flat on top of the battery, with wires connected on both sides. If you have a multimeter set it to continuity and test both sides to make sure power is flowing. Also check for corosion, etc. There are also blade fuses on top of battery that can be checked by removing and looking to see if they are blown. This would show as a burn mark and the metal would be seperated.

Not sure what makes you think its the fuse on the battery that could cause this issue unless somehow you see a defect or damage to this area. It is usually the last to blow unless exposed to water or left open, shorted, etc.

Second thing to be sure is that the car has reached temperature to cause cooling fan to kick in.

INSIDE FAN: If the inside AC/Heater fan has stopped working this is more than likely the fan control knob located in center of the three knobs. The left is temperature control knob for Hot Cold, Center is Fan speed, and Right is vent choice. Unfortunately the unit is a single piece and the fan control switch is not replaceable by itself. You have to buy the whole module. The left and right are cable actuated but the fan control is electric and can short out and cause fan failure total or not run at high speed, not turn off, etc. Suggestion is to search EBAY for your model and lookf for AC control, Fan Control, etc. I would also suggest a Bentley manual for your beetle as it is the BIBLE used by VW mechanics at the dealer to diagnose and work issues. If you fancy DIY on some minor repairs this is the book for you and has 1600 pages of very detailed troubleshooting and procedures, with pictures and is easy to follow. You can find them on ebay as well for about 80 dollars. Be sure and get the correct one for your model year

Good luck

For AIR and HEAT to stop working Im assuming you mean the fan stopped blowing air. The beetle has three turn knobs in the dash. Left is for temperature control, center is fan control, and right is vent selection. The center button on this years model is famous for shorting out causing the fan to not blow. the other two controls are cable actuated. Unfotunately once you remove the cover the control knobs are all part of one single unit. and the whole unit must be replaced. Its a job that is doable by the home mechanic with the BENTLEY manual for this car. Other manuals are not able to show all steps. You can get the BENTLEY manual on ebay for about 80 dollars US. Its a wise investment. Then you can search ebay or local parts yards for the part. I paid 45 for mine, but dealer wanted over 400 dollars US for just the part. Took me 2 hours to install with manual.

This information may help you - it could be the fan motor itself by the way.

Servicing the Thermostat Control

©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Thermostat controls regulate the temperature of the refrigerator
and freezer. Remove the control panel to reach the controls.

The thermostat control is usually mounted inside the refrigerator. Its visible control knob is turned to regulate the refrigerator/freezer temperature. The workability of this control can be tested in various ways, depending on the problem. To test the thermostat control:

Step 1: If the compressor runs all the time, turn the control knob to the OFF position. If the compressor still runs, unplug the unit, then pull off the control knob and remove the screws holding the thermostat in place. Pull out the thermostat and remove either the red or the blue wire from its terminal. Plug in the unit. If the compressor doesn't run, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new thermostat.

Step 2: If the compressor runs after the wire is removed from its terminal, there is probably a short circuit somewhere in the unit's wiring. In this case, don't try to fix the problem yourself; call a professional service person.

Step 3: If the refrigerator or freezer runs but the box doesn't cool, unplug the unit and remove the thermostat with a screwdriver. Disconnect both wires from the thermostat. Tape the ends of the wires together with electrical tape, and plug in the appliance. If the refrigerator starts and runs normally, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.

Step 4: If the freezer compartment is normal but the refrigerator box doesn't cool, set the dials that control both compartments to mid-range. Remove these knobs (they're usually friction-fit). Then unscrew the temperature control housing; you'll see an air duct near the control. Replace the knob on the freezer thermostat and turn the control to the OFF position. Open the refrigerator door and look closely at the air duct. If this duct doesn't open wider in about ten minutes, the control is faulty. Replace the control with a new one of the same type. Connect the new control the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Evaporator Fan

In some cases, a faulty thermostat may not be the cause of a warm refrigerator or freezer. A warm box may also be caused by a defective fan, a blocked fan, or broken or bent fan blades. If the blades are jammed, try to free them. If they're bent, straighten them with pliers. If this doesn't solve the problem, call a professional service person.

On some refrigerators, the door switch operates the evaporator fan. If the fan seems to be malfunctioning, the door switch could be faulty. Test the switch as detailed in the last page, and replace it if necessary

there is no computer control unit, what u need to replace is the fan speed control resistor module.

You can save a LOT of money by fixing it yourself.

All that is wrong with the knob are broken wires from the knob's PC board to the main PC board on the AC control.

All you have to do is remove the AC main control, take it apart, and resolder the broken wires from the PC board with the knob on it, to the main AC pc board. There are 3 wires, any number could be broken.

If you take it apart and solder the broken wires, this WILL fix your issue. Just make sure you put the wires back exactly where they go.

A FIXYA rating (4 blue diamonds) would be most appreciated for my assistance.

were these new parts ? from what i know if you have replaced the fan resistor motor and control unit there is nothing elese in the system i would double check it all again

I would check the thermostat first. It sounds like it may be stuck open.
On any of the newer autos pulling the front panel to access the heater controls is a major pain.
Start with the easy stuff first.

Good Luck, Duane

One of the knobs controls fan speeds, cooling speeds and an off position. Center knob controls temperature and bottom knob more than likely controls air exchange. As for the front cover it would depend on the units age as to if it would be available.