Being it’s only on the hot side in the kitchen, that typically would indicate some of the buildup inside the pipes (water lines build up stuff inside of them over time) came loose (happens when you shut water off then repressurize) and is blocking it up somewhere.
Take the supply off the faucet and put it into a 5 gallon bucket, open it up and see how much pressure there is. If its decent (compare the cold side if unsure) backflush the facet by simply leaving the hot supply connected to the faucet and not the stop pointing into the bucket, turn the cold on at the faucet, it should force its way out of the hot supply instead of the faucet itself, if this is making sense.
If you have bad pressure at the stop by just removing the supply from the faucet and testing you can try to shock the blockage out by leaving the supply in the bucket and using the heater shut off to pressurize/depressurize the line while it’s open, sometimes that’s enough to blow it out, follow the line to the kitchen and tap on it with something to help knock the stuff out. If you can’t get it out, you’re looking at replacing the kitchen feed line. Most of the time you can get the blockage out, but they can be VERY stubborn.
There should be a valve on the outlet and inlet side of the water heater. Make sure they are fully open.
SOURCE: Water is either hot or cold - no in between.
I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.
So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?
SOURCE: Loss of pressure in kitchen faucet - Price Pfister
Your problem is a simple one.
Problem solved.
SOURCE: low pressure and flow on hot water side of single handle faucet
It could be one of two problems, one simple, one serious.
If you have steel pipes you may be experiencing reduced flow due to corrosion in your pipes. Reduced hot water pressure in the kitchen faucet is usually the first sign since this is the faucet that is most used in the home.
Repiping is a job for a professional. Another symptom you may need a repipe is orange colored or rusty water.
SOURCE: Low Water Pressure in Kitchen Faucet
Ihad the same problem. It is not the screen. What you need to do is get a spray diverter the old one disintergated and is blocking the flow. You have to take the collar off and underneath is the diverter. This is after you take the ball and rings out.
SOURCE: Delta single handle faucet. Hot or cold no in between.
well they should be same size but unless you getting more of one then other then sound like mixing valve is not mixing. do have 3/4 hook up to mixing valve? you only need 1/2" to valve.
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