Water is draining out of a little hole beside drain

this is an easy fix and quite common. I found that removing the drain line where saddle is mounted and clean it from the inside.
A common leaking problem in most taps is the "air gap leak." It occurs when water leaks through the hole on an air gap faucet.
An air gap is a vital component of the reverse osmosis system. It prevents the back flow of water into the reverse osmosis unit. Instead, the air gap directs the excess water into the drain lines.
When a lot of debris accumulates in the drain line, it clogs up, creating back pressure that forces water to flow out through the air gap. Unfortunately, the back flow can flood your countertop.
To fix this problem, remove all the debris accumulated in your drain line to allow water to flow smoothly. You can use a wire brush or a pipe cleaner to clean out the drain line, starting from the end connected to the system's drain saddle.
You should also clean the system's drain saddle and ensure that it's properly aligned with the drain line. That's because the drain saddles can sometimes shift away from the drain lines.
To avoid air gap leaks completely, treat the drain line regularly using a natural cleaner that can dissolve the solids blocking it. Also, avoid flushing big chunks of food down the drain line.

Supply or drain? The supply lines will be routed either behind cabinets or through the floor. You can use a sharkbite fitting to connect the new water line to the old and then pull until you have reached the location to be connected. Then install the required fittings to properly connect. The drain lines do not go directly outside. They are directly plumbed into a holding tank and then the holding tank is plumbed out to a valve and then a drain fitting.

Your problem more than likely is a plugged defrost line in the freezer...The freezer goes through periodic defrost cyles to keep the coils from freezing up. The water catches in a trough pan in the freezer and flows through a drain hole to the bottom of the fridge where it evaporates. This drain hole perodically freezes up and the water accomulates under the freezer bottom until the water level reaches your vent ports to the fridge section. Open your freezer and on the bottom floor of your freezer you should see two screws near the front on either side. Remove them and then take out the bottom tray....this will expose the drain hole near the rear of the freezer compartment. You will more than likely have to remove ice under the tray in order to see the drain hole. Remove the lower back panel on the back of the refrigerator and you should be able to see the drain line coming from the freezer. Unplug the refrigerator before you begin work. It will take a little while for the drain line to thaw to allow liquid to flow to the bottom. I find a hair dryer pretty handy in speeding up the process. To verify you have unplugged the drain line you should be able to pour hot water in the drain hole in the freezer and see it come out at the rear of the fridge in tube line just above a little catch pan

That's strange! You usually drain the plumbing with a special fitting that goes into the water supply connection. You use compressed air to blow all the water through the lines and into the drains. But, your drain has water in it, so you must have a clogged drain? Or maybe you need to open the drain, then blow it out?

OK, now I understand. First, on the Reverse Osmosis Membrane Housing Outlet Ports there is only a Check Valve attached to the Permeate (Pure Water) Port, not the Concentrate Port (Drain Water). The Permeate line is what fills the storage tank, so you don't want back pressure from the tank reversing into the membrane filter which could severely damage it. So, there is a high Risk for Sewer Water to Back-flow into the Membrane Filter and Contaminate it as it is discharging water to the sewer drain if there is any noticeable pressure restriction in the drain distribution manifold. Second, this is why "Air-Gap" Faucets are supposed to be used when installing Reverse Osmosis Systems. With an Air-Gap Faucet, there are three (3) attachments for tubing at the base of the faucet, and a small hole drilled out underneath the lever or handle of the faucet. The 1/4" pressurized drain line tube from the RO System attaches to the 1/4" barbed fitting under the faucet base, then a 3/8" drain line tube attaches to the 3/8" barbed fitting. So when the drain water is pumped up to the faucet under pressure, it returns to the sewer line under Gravity, or No Back Pressure. Then, if the plumbing becomes restricted in any way that the RO Unit can't drain into the sewer under gravity feed, the hole drilled in the base of the faucet allows the back pressure to be escaped to the atmosphere, and if necessary drain water out of the hole until the plumbing pressure restriction can be resolved. This eliminates the possibility of a reverse flow pressure situation from occurring. Hope this helps, and you can always visit us online at www.puresafe.com We have filter cartridges for all makes and models of RO Systems, and 1/2 micron filters that no one else in the trade is using at this time. Thanks, Victor

Bear with me. The hole is not a weep hole, but a drain. When you shut the valve off, the water in the pipe should drain out this hole so the pipe doesn't freeze. When you lift the handle the rod in the center of the pipe raises a hard rubber bulb that lets the water flow and covers the drain hole so it doesn't run water all the time. To service the valve shut the water off, take the handle pivot bolt out. Loosen the packing nut in the center over the pipe, screw it out, lift the guts, - handle, rod and nut, out of the pipe, now you can see the rubber bulb. Screw it off and go to a good plumbing shop or plumbing supply. Replace the bulb and put it back together. The nut in the center tightens a packing to keep water from leaking around the rod. Too tight and it is too stiff. Too loose and it will leak. Also, where the center rod meets the handle there is an adjustment that allows you to lengthen the rod a little so the bulb is pushed down a little more. Maybe this is all you need. Anyway, you just got the whole load of hay. You can also screw the top part off the pipe and you don't have to disassemble the head. Put gravel around the bottom so when the pipe drains the water can get out. Don't leave a hose connected when it needs to drain.

this is a condensate line and suprising enough most of the plumbers I go back after never hook them up they should have a hose off of them and led to a discharge area, if this is actually on the tank you will need to drain it and remove it and reseal it,

To get the water to the dishwasher, it depends on your plumbing setup. If you have shutoffs under your sink(1/2" X 3/8" compression angle stop), you will need to buy a 1/2" x 3/8" compression double stop. This will be easy to change.

#1 Drill a 1 1/2" hole in the back bottom of the cabinet to run your water, drain line, and power cord through.
#2 First turn off the water at the Hot Water Tank, or the House supply, and turn on the sink to relieve the pressure.
#3 Next remove the Hot supply stop, and install the double stop.( The nut and ferrul do not have to be removed, as they will attach to the double stop. Reinstall the hot supply to the sink to one of the connections on the double stop.
#4 Install a 3/8" x 3/8" x 48" braided flex with the 1/2" MIP
x 3/8" compression ell at the dishwasher.
#5 Install the drain hose supplied with your dishwasher at the bottom of the dishwasher.
#6 Install a 6' pigtail power cord to the power box under your dishwasher.
#7 Feed the drain line, power cord and water supply through the hole in the back of the cabinet at the bottom. As you push the dishwasher back into the enclosure, you will need to feed the 3 lines into the cabinet under the sink.
#8 Attach the water line to the open connection on the double stop.
#9 The drain line will attach to your garbage disposal.(If you have one) Be sure to knock the small piece of plastic out of the drain connection, and retrieve it out of the disposal, before connecting the dishwasher drain line.
#11 Raise the middle of the drain line as high as possible under the cabinet under the sink, preferably attach it to a screw to the bottom of the counter top. This will keep the dishwasher from drawing a back siphonage and getting a bad odor.
#12 Plug in the dishwasher. Assuming you have electrical under your sink. Otherwise an electrical outlet may need to be installed.
#13 Balance the dishwasher using the front legs. After you adjust the depth of the dishwasher, and the level. Use the 2 mounting screws included with the dishwasher to fasten the 2 clips above the door to the bottom of the counter top.
#14 Remove the installation manual and styrofoam from the tray, and turn the dishwasher on. Inspect for leaks as you run a cycle.
#15 Attach the bottom kick panels

You are done.

If you have any questions, please let me know.

your defrost drain is frozen or has algae blocking it its at the back of the freezer behind the evaporator cover. You can see it without removing the evaporator cover. You might or might not see the drain hole because of the ice now you can sit and poor hot water on it till it thaws then get a thin wire and run down the tube till its clear or sit there with a hair drier and thaw it .But if you don't mind a small investment ill tell you the best way to deal with it .Go to Lowe's or some where like that and buy you a eureka model 350 hand held steamer.Trust me it will be one of the best investments you'll ever make. You will find 1001 uses for it besides this and the steam will not damage your refrigerator and all the attachments make it very useful.remove the evaporator cover and take the steamer and melt the ice under the evaporator where the drain pan is. Then you will see the drain hole.Put the curved tip on the steamer an start clearing the drain hole now when you get it melted enough to where the curved tip makes a seal around the drain hole let the steam build then hold down the trigger till you hear it at the back of the refrigerator and your done put the evaporator cover back on then think of all the other uses for that steamer now I told whirlpool about it they tested it and now have it posted on their web site that will fix it easy. I hope this is good enough for a four box rateing lol

all programs start with drain put a little water in by hand, start a program and see if water comes out of the drain hose. things to check are if drain hose is plumbed in under sink, check no blockage in this area. if drain hose not running, then listen carefully for a low humming noise. if there is, this indicates a foreign object stuck in drain impellor. if youhave a multimeter, check if there is power to the drain pump