Your install instructions are wrong. they read cut off two and one half inches off measurement of bottom guide. I did that and it is one and one half inches too short. your instructions are wrong and now my install looks like ****. thank alot. and also I just purchased my last product from you forever.thanks

Calculate it yourself: Place a straight edge across the top of the unit. Measure the height from the bottom of the tub to the bottom of the straight edge. Then measure the width of the inside center of the tub and take half that number. Then use the formula below to calculate it. For example. Height 30 inches, Width 28 inches (half of 28 = 14).

V = (3.1416 x (14 x 14) x 30)/1728
= (3.1416 x 196 x 30)/1728
= 18498.48/1728
= 10.70 cubic feet.

Its pretty easy to calculate. open the top and place a straight edge across the top of the washer, then measure the height in inches from the bottom of the tub to the bottom of the straightedge. Next measure the inner distance from one edge of the tub to the other and cut that number in half. For example: Say the height is 30 inches and the distance across is 28 inches (cut this number in half so use 14). The total cubic inch volume would be calculated like this:

V = 3.1416 x (14 x 14) x 30
3.1416 x 196 x 30
18472.61 cubic inches

Divide 18472.61 by 1728 giving a capacity (volume) of 10.69 cubic feet.

Procedure is pasted below. Please let me know if you have questions.
Removal & Installation2.2L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Drain the engine oil.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   NOTE The timing chain has 2 matching colored links and 1 uniquely colored link.
   Negative battery cable, PCV hose, Fuel line bracket, Ignition coil and module assembly Ground strap from camshaft cover, Camshaft cover, Front fender liner, Accessory drive belt Crankshaft balancer pulley, Accessory drive belt tensioner, Front cover-to-water pump bolt Remaining front cover bolts, Front cover
   
5. Rotate the engine until the crankshaft sprocket mark aligns with the matching colored link (2) at the 5 o-clock position.
6. Confirm that the INT diamond on the intake camshaft sprocket is aligned with the uniquely colored link at (1) the 2 o-clock position.
7. Confirm that the EXH triangle on the exhaust camshaft sprocket is aligned with the matching colored link (3).
8. Remove or disconnect the following:
   NOTE Use a 24 mm wrench to hold the camshafts to prevent them from turning.
   Timing chain tensioner, Fixed timing chain guide access plug, Fixed timing chain guide Upper timing chain guide, Exhaust camshaft sprocket, Timing chain tensioner guide Intake camshaft sprocket, Timing chain through the top of the cylinder head Crankshaft sprocket
   
   
   

   Fig. Lining up the crankshaft sprocket mark with the colored link in the 5 o-clock position (2).
   
   
   
   

   Fig. Aligning the intake camshaft sprocket mark with the colored link in the 2 o-clock position (1).
   
   
   
   

   Fig. Aligning the exhaust camshaft sprocket (3).
   

To install:

1. Install the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark in the 5 o-clock position.
2. Assemble the intake camshaft sprocket to the timing chain with the timing mark lined up with the uniquely colored link (1). Hand tighten a new intake camshaft sprocket bolt.
3. Lower the timing chain through the opening in the cylinder head.
4. Route the timing chain around the crankshaft sprocket and line up the first marching colored link (2) with the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.
5. Install the exhaust camshaft sprocket with a new bolt loosely onto the exhaust camshaft.
6. Align the timing mark on the sprocket with the last matching colored (3).
7. If necessary, align the camshaft as follows:
   1. Using a 24 mm wrench, first turn the intake camshaft until the alignment feature on the back of the camshaft sprocket seats in the notch in the front of the intake camshaft.
   2. Turn the crankshaft 45 degrees in either direction.
   3. Turn the intake camshaft to the appropriate location.
   4. Turn the crankshaft back to top dead center (TDC).
8. When the sprocket seats in on the camshaft, tighten the sprocket bolt hand tight.
9. Verify all of the colored links and the appropriate timing marks are still aligned.
10. Install the fixed timing chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 133 inch lbs. (15 Nm).
11. Install the upper timing chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
12. Using a 24 mm wrench to hold the camshafts, tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm) plus 30 degrees.
13. Measure the timing chain tensioner from end to end. A new tensioner should be supplied in the fully compressed non-active state. A tensioner in the compressed state will measure 2.83 inches (72 mm) front end to end. A tensioner in the active state will measure 3.35 inches (85 mm) from end to end.
14. If the timing chain tensioner is not in the compressed state, perform the following steps:
    1. Remove the piston assembly from the body of the timing chain tensioner by pulling it out.
    2. Install the bottom half of the Tensioner tool J-45027-2 into a vise.
    3. Install the notch end of the piston assembly into the bottom half of the tensioner tool.
    4. Using the top half of the Tensioner tool J-45027-1, turn the ratchet cylinder into the piston.
    5. Install the compressed piston assembly back into the timing chain tensioner body until it stops at the bottom of the bore. Do not compress the piston assembly against the bottom of the bore.
    
    
15. Install the timing chain tensioner assembly. Tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
16. Release the timing chain tensioner by compressing it approximately 0.08 inches (2mm). Feed a rubber-tipped tool down through the cam drive chest to reset on the cam chain. Give the tool a sharp jolt diagonally downwards to release the tensioner.
17. Install the timing chain oiling nozzle.
18. Install the timing chain guide bolt access hold plug with silicone sealant on the threads. Tighten the plug to 59 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
19. Install or connect the following:
    
    Camshaft cover. Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Front cover with new gasket. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Accessory drive belt tensioner. Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Crankshaft balancer pulley using a new bolt. Tighten the bolt to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) plus 75 degrees. Accessory drive belt, Front fender liner, Ground strap to camshaft cover Ignition coil and module assembly, Fuel line bracket, Air intake assembly, Negative battery cable
20. Refill the cooling system to the correct level.
21. Refill the engine with oil to the correct level.
22. Start the engine and check for leaks.
    
    
    

    Fig. Compressing the timing chain tensioner-2.2L engine.
    

Yes you can do it yourself. You can go buy the tools at Walmart or you can make them yourself. You can make the tool useing 2 full metal clothes hangers. To make it yourself cut both bottom pieces off the bottom of the hangers and fold each piece you cut out in half then spread them apart to where it is in the shape of a V. You want each leg on the V to be 3 and 1/2 inches long. Then measure each hole on the front of the radio from top to bottom. Then measure from the end of the V where you cut the wire at and measure 2 inches down and fold. Do it on both sides of the wire V so it is parallel and make sure both parallel sides are the same measurement as the holes on the radio. You want 2 of the wire Vs with the same dimensions. Insert both Vs into the holes of each side of the radio. Then press the Vs gently apart from each other and then slowly jiggle the radio out.

This is a home owner's jig for mortising **** hinges, It will not do production runs , that's for sure. It has to be layed out to start, but great for cutting one door. Do you have the router guide for it? Your hinge sticks out of the door on the side that it swings on, and it leaves about 1/4 inch of door on the other edge, the top and bottom are measured from the top and bottom of the door and you have to figure the thickness of the guide and make a test run on a scrap. The depth should be flush with the hinge. The standard way of measuring is, 7 from the top, 11 from the bottom and center in between the 2, they don't do that anymore, they just slap them in a pre-hung jig that mortises upside down, backwards, up, down, doesn't matter. all the same now days, only problem is you can't get a punch under the hinge to pop out the hinge pin if you have to. The card you have might have the dimensions on it for holding off the line. Hope this helps.

Is it a Regal Kitchen Pro? If so, it should say so on the housing of the machine.

Follow the instructions on how to measure for a belt below. I used yarn because it gives a little, and just using a measuring tape would not give as precise a measurement.

Remove the safety cover from the bottom of the machine, exposing the wheel and drive shaft (it's easy, that's all you will see, those two parts) and run yarn around them, pull it snug, knot it, cut the yarn, remove the yarn, stretch the yarn a little on a measuring tape or yardstick, that is the length belt you need. If your machine is a k6725 it will measure 23 and a half inches. Proceed as below.

If the measurement is different, you have a different model, maybe. Google the measurement you get and the words bread machine belt, and see what you can find. Good Luck, read below how I fixed my Regal machine, which I got for free, with an Oster belt, for $14.90.

My Regal Kitchen Pro 6725 Breadmaker belt was in tiny rotten pieces...I wound a piece of yarn around the wheel and drive shaft (lie the machine on a kitchen counter, lid open and hanging down off of the counter, bottoms up, and remove the screws from the teardrop shaped brass colored safety cover, remove the cover and expose the wheel and drive shaft) pull the yarn tight and knot it. Then cut the yarn about an inch from the knot. Measure the yarn when pulled on a little. Mine measured 23.5"....I then googled bread machine belt 23.5" and up came one for an Oster Bread Machine (The one I was repairing was a Regal Kitchen Pro 6725) from totalvac.com located at 2 De Bush Ave Unit A8 Middleton, MA 01949
It was $7.95 for the belt, $6.95 S & H to a VA address, total cost $14.90 so I decided to give it a shot. When it got here, I removed the safety cover, held the machine up and shook as much of the old rotten rubber belt pieces out as I could, and replaced the belt by placing it over the sticky string on the drive shaft and teasing it over the wheel. It is an exact fit. Be sure the ribbed side of the belt is down against the wheel. Screw the cover back on and run it through a dough cycle so that the belt will get coated with the sticky stuff from the sticky string on the drive shaft. Until the belt is coated, it will turn the mixing blade, but it will slip. Hope this helps. Patti

Patti Wilson
September 2009

check your front tire air pressures

instructions for shower door installations are very important to have,..i have installed over 100 of them and i still wouldn't attempt one without instructions,.your totally best to do the research it takes to get the instructions needed for this job,...there are certain cuts and measurements that are very dependent on specifications given by manufacturer to be right,....one wrong cut domino effects the whole job,....good luck

you might have bad caps or the vertical output integrated circuit, try to locate the vertical ic and check the surrounding areas for bad capacitors.


good luck


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