NEED PARTS FOR OLD WALL OVEN...AMERICAN CROWN

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Hi,
Its old tech2332 again. I know its a dumb question but did you disconnect the gas inlet from the regulator and see if their is gas flow into the safety valve. With a new ignotor with proper amp draw from it into new gas safety valve their is no reason what so ever that oven shouls not be heating. That the only possibility that thier is go gas to valve

Hi,
That sounds like you have too high of gas pressure which keeps the oven gas valve from opening...turning on the burners lowers the gas pressure enough to allow the gas valve to open. this is a saftey feature on many gas valves.
To stop that you will need to install a gas pressure regulator which will hold back the gas pressure so the valve can open.

Here is a tip that I wrote about regulators and them failing on the low side, but it will give you and idea what I am talking about and what you need to install in the line to your range.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5849793-propane_lp_or_natural_gas_regulator

heatman101

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Wall-OVEN-by-Chambers-Stainless-Gas-24in-/231466193620

Ok first thing you need to verify is that the gas valve is on at the connector and there is gas pressure. Then verify that there is no restriction on the flexible gas line(kinked) or any PTFE tape or pipe dope stuck in the connection restricting gas flow. Then make sure that the appliance gas regulator is installed in the right direction and not installed backwards(if it is backwards you will get no gas). Also you might find a valve located on the regulator called a runaway valve(looks like a small clip) is off. Verify that the run-away valve is on. This valve will **** off gas to the oven burner. Then verify that there is no tape or debris covering the burner orfice or assembly. And when the burner igniter is glowing brightly try giving the gas control valve a tap(it might be sticikng). If it lights after you tap it re-try the oven several times to make sure it is working.

When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve
-- defective pressure regulator(likely issue if the igniter is ok)

you have a bad oven sensor /faulty connection or bad control board.look for probe coming thru inside rear wall.should read 11k ohms cold.go bad a lot part number Hope this helps ,please rate my response :)

12001655

Take a 1/2 inch open end wrench and tighten the orifice on top of the safety valve.Probably about 2 turns. Then adjust the air shutter to mostly open.

CG, unfortunately you replaced the wrong part. The problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating. It will also cause your symptoms as well...

Here's the scenario; Say your safety valve is "looking" for 2.5 amps of electricity flowing through it before it'll open up and allow gas to the manifold. Your igniter is designed to allow 2.8-3.2 amps to flow in good operating condition, but your igniter has become "weak"... it's now allowing 2.48-2.51 amps. The safety valve is sensing this and opening and closing rapidly, allowing gas to flow through it (fluttering). BUT! the igniter is not hot enough to ignite the gas and/or there is not enough gas to ignite do to the fluttering effect of the valve. Sometimes it'll light sometimes it won't.

Your igniter is the cause and needs to be replaced.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!

To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted.  (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.