Compressor runs 45 seconds off for 2 minutes cycles like this no voltage change

clutch problem in the ac compressor pulley have it checked

thermostat

Not likely a defrost timer issue, but I suspect (1) a low refrigerant charge (2) If the fridge has been on its side, it should remain unplugged and upright for 8 hours before powering up or (3) If the ambient air temperature of the space it is in (garage, etc. or any place where it below 45 or so degrees), the refrigerant has likely migrated to and flooded the compressor. There's too much liquid refrigerant causing the compressor to slug. Allow the ambient air to warm before attempting to power up the fridge - or you could damage the compressor and lose the refrigerant charge.

First, if the compressor doesn't run, it'll never get cold. You didn't say if it ran or not.

The defrost circuit is *designed* to cut the compressor out of the circuit during the 2 - 3 times (8 to 12 hour intervals) each day it goes into defrost mode. The compressor will remain off until the defrost temperature sensor (hidden in the freezer section) reaches 50 degrees (or so) *OR* for 20 to 25 minutes each time the defrost timer cycles on. If it is stuck in defrost mode because it failed to advance due to a bad clock motor or because of bad contacts, it will *prevent* the compressor circuit from ever being energized.

Check into this circuit and the location of this timer for your particular fridge. You should not need to worry about the defrost terminator, thermistor, sensor, heater or anything else in the *defrost circuit* at this time to get the compressor running.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Most likely your PTC start relay on the compressor has failed
It is item 733 of this diagram: PN: WR07X10052
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Hotpoint-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-HSS25GFPAWW/1811/0165000/H3090204/00008?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=HSS25GFPAWW

When a PTC relay fails I most always change the overload and the capacitor also. The reason for the overload change is that as of this moment it is still cycling and they do age and stop performing properly. The capacitor.. just so you have a known good one.

The capacitor is item 729 above link.
The thermal overload is item 735 above link.

You may get by without changing item 735 (the overload..) but if it does not cycle in 40 - 45 seconds after a brief power loss it should be changed. You can test it by unplugging the unit for 45 seconds and then plugging it back in. The system has not stabilized so the compressor will NOT start, yet the thermal overload will cycle every 4 minutes or so depending on temps. Once the thermal overload is cycling you must unplug the unit for 15 minutes to allow for coolant system pressures to stabilize and compressor temp to drop.

Before you order parts... try un-plugging the unit for 30 minutes and then plug it back in. It may start.

If not.. we do a continuity check of the 3 compressor terminals individually to the case of the compressor. (NO SHORTS or grounds are allowed!) If there are shorts.. the compressor is bad. The next step (no shorts) for sure is the PTC relay and capacitor change. If it still cycles at this point you must change the thermal overload. If at this point it still does not operate normally most likely the compressor rotor is locked. (compressor change)

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. Your hearing the compressor Thermal overload cycle every few minutes for no more than 45 seconds. The compressor is not starting at all or it is not cycling from the start winding to the run winding so the KliXon thermal overload is tripping. That switching of windings is done by the PTC relay mounted on the side of the compressor. The Compresor part number is EMY32CLC. PTC relays can be found here:
http://www.europart.co.uk/s.nl/sc.2/category.690082/.f You will have to match your relay to the image.

I would recommend using the phone locally to purchase the relay AFTER performing the following.
POWER OFF / Unplugged WAIT 30 minutes for the compressor to cool and the coolant pressures to stabilize. After 30 minutes plug in the unit and see if the compressor starts.


POWER OFF / Unplugged
IF after 30 minutes the compressor does not restart....
1. Read the pins of the compressor to the case of the compressor. No grounds allowed.
2. Read pin 1 to pin 2 (on 2 pin compressor) you should read resistance.
3. If you have a 3 pin compressor only 2 of the 3 pins will read to each other at any given time. One for start winding and one for run winding with 3rd pin being common.

A locked compressor rotor/armature will also cause the compressor not to start. A locked rotor requires compressor replacement. (Fingers crossed lets hope that the rotor is not locked!)

Hopefully your unit will restart. A momentary loss of power will cause a compressor to hot cycle and not restart. All it takes is about a 8 second power loss to put the compressor into this no start frenzy. Do the 30 min no power thing and see what happens. (maybe save your self lots of money.)

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

Usually when a compresso that is not that old gets hot the problem is with one of 3 components

1. The PTC Relay PN P6R8MC
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-P6R8MC-%3d%3di1206838&PartID=1206838

2. Thermal overload PN 265RFBYY
one of many sources: http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-265RFBYY-%3d%3di1206539&PartID=1206539
3. Loose wiring or terminals
4. Worst case the compressor itself (5 Year carry in warranty!)

Items 1 and 2 above should be changed at the same time. Usually when one fails it causes the 2nd one to fail.

Before you go ordering parts.. just unplug the unit for about 45 minutes. Sometimes if there is a brief power outtage (less than 3 mins) the unit stops and the coolant has not equalized. The compressor keeps trying to start keeping the pressure up but yet the compressor does not start normally. The compressor gets hot and the thermal overload causes the unit to cycle on about every 5 minutes. Over an extended time of cycling the thermal overload will fail. After 45 minutes plug the unit in and see if it starts

If you change the PTC Relay you must change the KliXon thermal overload at the same time. Most LOCAL Appliance part supply stores will have both of these parts in stock. Use the part numbers above and walk in with the parts in hand.

IF you decide to change them your self FIRST make yourself a simple wiring diagram
I.e Orange to terminal ___
Blue to terminal ____

Then remove the parts by opening the plastic cover on the side of the compressor and then pull off the PTC and Thermal overload HORIZONTALLY. Obtain the replacement parts and reintall after inspecting the compressor terminals. Clean as necessary by scraping with a knife blade.

If after changing these two parts the compressor still does not start you may very well have a warranty carry in service compressor change. I seriously doubt that the compressor has failed but it does rarely happen.

This is the Magic Chef support website for parts (linked page) and warranty (top of linked page)
http://www.mcappliance.com/partorder.aspx

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Good day,
35 minutes would be considered nominal. That is the amount of time needed to heat up the cooling coils behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, and then allow it to drain the condensate water out the drain.

The defrost cycle is made up of 2 parts.
The first part involves shutting all fans and compressor off, and turning on the heater/heaters mounted on the bottom of the cooling coil to above freezing. About 10 to 15 minutes.

The second half occures when a defrost thermostat mounted on the top of that coil senses the coil is above freezing. It cuts the power to the heaters, and lets the system just idle, while the water is allowed to drain out of the drain.

If that tstat is working properly, the food temperature is affected slightly but never to an above freezing condition.
The thermostat is a small 1" round disk clipped to the top of the coil.

Only one possibility, but that tstat could be hanging allowing the freezer coil compartment to reach a very high temperature. If so, it needs replaced.

You should also check to see if both fans and compressor start running as soon as the cycle is done.

The unit has a temperature swing adjustment screw located behind the thermostat plate.If you remove the knob and the face plate you will see it,It can be adjusted there.It may also be the thermostat bulb is going bad or touching something and giving a false signal to the compressor.