I have a K3 78M electric unit . The motor pulsates

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measure the contacts over the 2 coils of the electric field sometimes if there was a faltering powercable the pulsation from the coils was to heavy and then by the field the winding wire can also be broken important by broken wire on electric field , test in all cases always the power cord to stretch test

After turning power off to unit, open unit and locate float switch. Switch may be stuck in up posistion which will cause unit to run constantly. If float switch is down than switch will need to be replaced.

Try the steps below:

- try running it without any load to see if it still hums.
- if it does, see anything underneath the pulsating disk if there's anything stuck. (like a coin or a pin)
- if it doesn't, You can also try removing the belt between the motor and the pulsator to isolate if it's a defect in the motor or the pulsator.
After that, If the motor is defective, then you'd have to replace that or repair it if you know how to. If the pulsator is defective, check again if there's something stuck in the bushings. If you've used the washing machine for quite a long time, you may need to replace the bushings and bearings of the pulsator. You can also buy an assembly unit for the pulsator if there's one available in your area.

Hope this helps.

Without more info I am guessing you have an air flow problem.ckeck filter and return air duct

The motor doesn't pulsate when you are spraying and pulsattes when not spraying is normal otherwise the pressure will just keep building and burn out the pump. However, if you are not using the sprayer right away then the unit should be shut off until your ready to start again.
I hope the answer is helpful, please rate if the answer has helped in any way. Good Luck and have a great weekend.

it just the presure building back up ,it will last years doing this,i would not worrie as replacing the presure pump will only be a temp fix and it will do it again ,most washes do this after a year or lots of use.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, is there an alarm/immobilizer? If yes is it active/enabled?

Offhand, by "...wont start..." do you mean starter motor will not spin or engine turns but will not fire?

Starter motor will not turn:

• press start button, check for +12 on green/black wire from starter switch to starter relay;
• if there is, is there a clicking sound?
• if there is a clicking sound, short temporarily the 2 big terminals of the starter relay;
• if starter motor turns, starter relay faulty;
• if not, starter motor needs looking into particularly the carbon brushes and the commutator segments.

Starter motor turns but no spark:

• check/replace sparkplug;
• check pulsating voltage on green/white wire going to ignition coil coming from the ignition control unit;
• check pulsating low AC voltage on green wire going to ignition control unit coming from the pulse generator coil;
• check presence of IGN +12 leading to the ignition control unit.
  

Starter motor turns, there is spark but motor will not run:

• check automatic choke (blue & white/black wires);
• check fuel quality and quantity delivered to combustion chamber (check sparkplug if wet).

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

R u sure u tested it correctly? There will be a 30 amp fuse usually associated with the blower motor however u need to look at the motor connections with a meter set to ac. These newer cars use a pwm type drive which is a pulsating dc voltage similiar to ac and should vary in amplitude as u turn ur control for speed. If u have that then ur motor is bad and has to be replaced.

The unit itself hs a ground fault built into the plug, is it in the on posistion?