Refrigerator not cooling

With all the extra running---are you getting frozen items in the fresh food section?? You have to understand that if the refrigerator was running all the time and for instance had a stuck on temperature control, you would be getting frozen items like lettuce, eggs, etc in the fresh food section. If that is not happening then the refrigerator needs to run until the cold control turns it off. Set both controls to the middle setting and let it run without playing with it for 24 hours and see if it turns off on its own. Frost free refrigerators average run times of 50% to 75% on time depending on how warm the room temperature actually is. If after 24 hours it is still running and some of your Fresh food is freezing then you do have a bad temp control.

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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heatman101

Your defroster timer switch may be at faught. The defrost timer turns on a heating coil to defrost your frige. This is only a guess since I don't have the model and year. Do this: feel the walls if they are hard and they have no give to them, then your fridge is frozen up solid and no air can circulate. Unplug you fridge for 24 to 36 hours. Put towels on the floor to catch the water. If the defrost timer is bad it will defrost naturally with room temp. Plug back in after 24 to 36 hrs and see if bottom is now getting cold. If it is the defrost timer, the solution is not cheap. It's up to you to repair or invest in new. Good luck Google burdfrenzy

Nine out of ten times it turns out to be a defrost issue. What most people dont understand is the refrigerator gets its cool air from the freezer. If the evaporator coil in the freezer becomes a block of ice then the airflow from freezer to fridge section is blocked. The block of ice along with already frozen foods in the freezer compartment help to keep those foods frozen. Therefore you assume the freezer section is fine. However, the lack of cool airflow to the fridge side quickly turns that 38 degree air into 50 degree air. You could try unplugging the fridge and leaving doors open for 24 hours, this will thatw the evap coil. Plug it back in after the 24 hours, and within 12-24 hrs everything should be cool. If the fridge continutes to cool for about 3-6 days and then fails again, you certainly have a defrost problem. This is long winded, but hope it helps

You have a defrost problem. 3 parts: Timer (or "adaptive defrost control"), defrost heater and def. termination thermostat.Find the timer, it shoud be nehind the bottom front grille to the right on Amana (if you see a blck box under there with a sticker on it, it's the ADC model) turn the timer CW until it clicks. Take the back off the bottom of the freezer and listen. After 5-10 minutes if you hear the sound of the sound of water hitting a hot grill. If you hear this the heater and thermo are working and the problem is the timer/ADC. No hiss? Unplug fridge. Check thermo and heater for continuity. Replace the one that's open. If the heater's open, replace the thermo too: Maybe it didn't open soon emouhg and caused heater failure.

This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Same problem here with an Amana refrigerator with the freezer on the bottom. I removed the back panels and vacuumed dust and cat hair out. The back panel in the freezer was frosted over with ice on the bottom. I removed the shelves and food and used a hairdryer to loosen the panel. The ice maker made it harder to remove the plastic panel so I pulled it back and saw the cooling fins frozen solid. I used the hairdryer to melt the ice and a shop vacuum to collect the water. It works like new again.

Have you noticed more frost in the freezer than usual? It sounds like you may have moisture building up and freezing around evaporator fan. The fan blade hitting ice will cause the buzzing until it stops it completely or the evaporator clogs with frost and blocks airflow. If you have frost on food in freezer, check the door seals and make sure nothing is keeping doors from closing completely if you release them about 6" from cabinet.

you have ice build up on the evaporator. two ways to cure. first switch off for 24 hours and leave with doors open. second switch off. remove back panel inside freezer and melt ice off with a hair dryer

There are 2 possible problems. One is the defrost cycle is not working properly this is usually indicated by a large amount of frost on the back freezer panel. If so, the circuit will have to be repaired and the evaperator thawed to remove the ice build up. The other is the fresh food damper is not working properly this is behind the "lump" in the back of the fridge compartment above the top shelf, remove the louver panel to see if it is open or closed. closed will be warm open should be cold. The water dispenser reservoir is probably frozen due to poor air circulation.