How do I remove the rubber tiller grip from an Evinrude BFP9.9A #1600886? There is no screw through the end as the repair manual shows.

repair manual
Huskee 26750TSC Operator Manual
page 14 shows the spark plug
above the stamped OHV metal cover on the motor

plug might be covered with one of these hard plastic caps
they break often and you can buy new ones
or a stock rubber insulated plug connection

would then suggest a tube spanner or plug spanner
Tiller Spark Plug Parts
cant say if its spark plug is a long threaded long headed type
or a stumpy

Fix Tiller Handle on 15hp Evinrude - YouTube

? 2:02
www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl0b7WFKsjc
Mar 30, 2011 - Uploaded by Budnipper82 Evinrude 15 HP gear removal - Duration: 9:11. by kodibass 7,404 views. 9:11. Repairing an Evinrude 9.9 ..

For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.


To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

In The Under Side Of The Tiller Is A Screw Loosen It Off That Is The Throttle Tension er, On Some Models The Front Portion Of The Grip Rotates And Tensions The Throttle

remove top starter assy. cut grip from old rope ease rope into spool,
when slack remove center screw and carefully pull out spool, tie knot in rope and thread into spool, wind rope [make sure correct size rope]
around spool until full,carefully turn spool into spring 1 turn then replace screw. put rope into notch on spool and wind up 3-6 turns,
replace grip

First, you will need to remove the rubberized grip on the front. I suggest that you insert a small flat screwdriver where the switch is and gently pry up the rubberized grip. Work around it until it is free. You will then see two screws at the bottome. Remove screws and loosen the metal plate that clips on at the top. You can then gently pry the two halves of the case apart

First remove the switch cover
just under the handle bars there are two rubber covered adjustment screws, roll back the rubber covers.
mark where they are set, then loosen off both adjusters until you can unhook the ends of the cables in the handle
remove the old grip and install the new one being careful to have the cable hook-ups in the proper position
install the cable ends and replace the cover
tighten the adjusters to original settings, check to see if there is play in the throttle and if it is returning to the start position when released
make necessary fine tuning to adjusters then tighten lock nuts and replace the rubber covers

hope that helps

The high-speed carb jet may be fouled. Most 2-cycle carburetors have two adjustable jets, one for idle, another for higher speeds and loads.

Hi there,

If your grips have closed ends, cut a section off so you have plenty of grip left, but a hole where the bar ends can go through. Follow below procedure with the bar ends.

Bar ends are either have a screw or allen key head. Tap them into the ends of the bars with a rubber mallet. Tighten up the screw/bolt as this will make them expand keeping them inside the bars.

If you need to remove the grips:

Get some hairspray and lift the edge of the handlebar grips up, spray down until the grip is slippy and comes off. (Only use hairspray though, as once it is slippy, it will be very sticky in a minute so it will help when you replace it. Repeat for the other grip. Clean up the bars where the grips were. Refit the grips with more hairspray inside the grip and a little on the bars. Slide them on and leave for a good 6 hours so they stick.

Hope this helps mate, please vote for me :)

Good job on the cord replacement. Most people take the cover off the spring and then find out it is nearly impossible to get the spring tension set. I have personally repaired dozens of these cords that have been messed up by owners that did that.
If anyone has this problem, just do what this post says...remove the assembly and turn the pulley until you can get to the part of the cord that is broken...grab the end that is broken after you get it out of the opening with a vise grip and pull the cord out fully and lock the recoil spring with a vise or vise grip (but don't crush it)...then replace the cord and hold the end of the cord pull fully extended and remove the lock and allow the spring to recoil...and reinstall the assembly.
Simple, but THINK before you take the housing apart. It is REALLY TOUGH to reset spring tension properly.