We just planted a lacy leaf Japanese maple tree tree that was moved and replanted and now the edges of the leaves are turning brown what can I do to prevent the tree from dying

Were planning on removing it or pruning it?

If you are going to "limb up" your tree by pruning the lowest branches, avoid stress to the plant by removing only a few at a time, not many at once. Never make one cut directly above the other or opposite another limb being pruned off in the same year.

That might cause decay to coalesce inside the trunk. However it our going to remove and haven't done it before I would read this https://www.lowcuttreeservices.com.au/ it will be helpful because using a chainsaw can be really dangerous when removing Japanese maples trees

Hello, Bellita -

The Orangeola, also known as the Laceleaf Japanese Maple can be subject to a number of pests and diseases which can cause leaf discoloration and other damage.

Read the information here:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/laceleaf-weeping-japanese-red-maple-tree-problems-43550.html

You may wish to hire a professional arborist (tree doctor) in your area to come and examine your tree and provide the proper treatment for the problems your tree exhibits.

Best wishes.

That is tree leaf mold, contact a pest control company to spray it, it will need to be done multiple times to assure a cure. I know this because my wife is a pest control company supervisor.

try these links for help

The Causes and Cures for Poinsettia Leaf Problems

Dealing With Yellowing Leaves On Plants Reasons For Leaves Turning Yellow


Poinsettia Diseases Plant Diseases

Edge of leaves turning yellow

Are Your Houseplant Leaves Getting Brown Tips or Edges My Indoor...

try these links for help

Yellowing on Outer Edges of Tomato Plant

Edge of leaves turning yellow

Dealing With Yellowing Leaves On Plants Reasons For Leaves Turning Yellow

The Leaf Edges Are Turning Yellow on My Pumpkin Plant

Scab is the most common and damaging pecan disease. It is caused by a fungus that affects rapidly growing leaves, shoots, and nuts. Symptoms on all plant parts are similar. Velvety olive-brown to black spots occur on the husks. Several spots may develop to form black blotches or may blacken the entire surface of the husks. Severely affected nuts of susceptible varieties may drop prematurely or they may stop growing, die and remain attached to the shoot. Leaf symptoms first appear on the underside as tiny olive-brown lesions on the veins. Later, leaf symptoms appear on the upper surface as small olive-brown to black spots. Severely infected leaves may be shed prematurely and weaken the tree, thus reducing the crop next year. The most practical method of scab control is to plant varieties having some degree of resistance to scab such as: Desirable, Cape Fear, Elliott, Chickasaw, Gloria Grande, and to a lesser extent, Stuart. Varieties severely affected by scab are Schley, Mahan, Success, Van Deman, and Mohawk. Use of "resistant" varieties does not necessarily assure complete absence of the disease as no variety is totally resistant. If possible, removing and destroying all leaves and husks may help reduce the amount of scab the following year.
A spray schedule is available for growers who have spray equipment adequate to cover the trees, or for growers who hire custom spray applicators. The following fungicides are registered on pecans: benomyl (Benlate 50WP), propiconazole (Orbit 3.6EC), fenbuconazole (Enable 2F), and thiophanate methyl (Topsin-M 70WSB). Spray applications should be made every 2-3 weeks beginning when leaves first emerge until shell hardening (early August). Spray at 2-week intervals when the tree is growing rapidly or during wet periods. Check fungicide labels for restrictions on grazing in sprayed orchards and the need to use tractors with enclosed cabs while spraying.

See this... http://homeguides.sfgate.com/brown-spots-fig-leaf-ficus-41712.html

Could be wind-burn. Some tree's don't like the wind as it dries out moisture in the needles. Move the plant or plant protective shrubs around it.

Yes you can, just don't pull them out of the ground, dig around them and deep enough to keep most of the roots intact. Dig the holes where you want to replant them first before digging the yuccas out!!! Once you have your plant dug out replant it in the new hole as soon as possible, use some good potting soil to fill around it and water it.. Yuccas are very tough plants so you should be OK.

Usually that's a sign of not watering it properly at the right times.