I have a XFMR with 2400 volt on the primary and secondary voltage if 120/240. I have input voltage but i'm not getting output voltage

I assume your trying to determine the values of the transformer in the picture. Looking at the picture the best guess i can make is the Red wires are the primary side, power input, and the plug with the two blues and the black are the secondary, output side. Transformers work at AC, so the best way to figure it out would be to put 120v AC on the red wires then with a voltmeter check what you have for AC voltage on the output. Thats a center tapped secondary since its three wires, so from either blue wire to the black wire would be one voltage, and from blue wire to blue wire would be another voltage. Usually blue to black is half the voltage of blue to blue. And since its dealing with AC voltage it goes without saying, be careful!!!

http://waterheatertimer.org/Malibu-power-pack-stopped-working.html

I don't think they post schematic for the transformer
But generally, the primary coil receives 120Volt AC input from household electrical outlet
And the secondary coil produces 12Volt AC output for the low voltage lights.
The 'coil' is a coil of insulated wire wrapped around a metal core. Two coils set side by side create a transformer... when primary is energized, the secondary responds to the magnetic field caused by primary core... resulting in a current that flows on the secondary coil.
Output voltage on secondary coil is determined by the number of wraps and diameter of wire.

Some transformers offer a choice of secondary output... Kichler for example... you can select 12-13-14-15 Volt AC output
This is achieved by the way the secondary coil is wrapped.... for less voltage a wire is tapped at one point on the coil... for more voltage, a wire is tapped at another point on coil. This gives the user several wire choices to connect the lights.

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Doing a resistance test on a transformer will not give the information you require as you will read very little, if any resistance. What you need to do is an impedance check and that gets involved. If it is a normally wound transformer, not an auto transformer, you can isolate which is the primary and the secondary windings. Unless the transformer is a multi voltage input unit, the primary side will have continuity through only two terminals. The secondary could be more than two if it is a multi output voltage one. If the transformer is a step down, the primary windings will be the thinner wired windings and vice-versa. To actually test the transformer, get hold of a transformer with about a 20 vac output and try it across the two terminals you have identified as the primary windings, you should ge a proportional voltage of the actual output. eg. with 20 vac input and a 2 vac reading at the secondary, the actual output would be 11 vac if your mains voltage is 110 volts. Take care that you are using the transformer at the voltage it is designed for, otherwise it will overheat and burn out.

Ohm's law tells us that: volts = amps x resistance and watts =volts x amps. Watts (300) = volts (240) x Amps (?); or 300 / 240 = 1.25 Amps That means the inverter can supply up to 1.25 Amps to a 240 volt load.

The primary is 12 volts, this is just 1/20th of the secondary 240 volt output. Since the best you can ever get is 100% efficiency -this means you'll need to supply 20 times the current. 1.25 Amps (at 240V) x 20 = 25 Amps (at 12V). As a check, from above Ohm's law that states Watts=Volts X Amps we get: 12VDC x 25Amps = 300Watts. Check!

Some side notes. The Ohms law used above is for DC circuits and purely resistive loads on AC circuits. I do not know what your 1.25 A @ 240VAC load is - but I suspect it won't be purely resistive. Also, since we're working with an electronic inverter as opposed to a transformer and DC rectifier there are some things that push losses higher. You might need to provide a 30 Amp 12 VDC source voltage in order to provide the 1.25A @ 240VAC output. Lastly, I wouldn't not run the output at maximum for long periods of time - or at all. 1 Amp @ 240VAC would be much better.

I hope this answered your question & good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.

The winding is center tapped. It generates +/-24.5 volts DC. Based on it being a capacitor input filter, we need a peak voltage about 1 volt higher to account for the droop of the capacitor and the .7 volt drop of one silicon diode...

Since we need 25.5 volts peak then we need that divided by 1.414 RMS out of ONE side of the center=tapped secondary... So our secondary voltage is 18 volts either side of center.

You will need a 36 volt center-tapped secondary. Here is one that would work:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=162J36-ND

This has two 18 volt windings that you would connect in series and a dual primary you can set for either 120 or 240 input. About $19 US.

If you can check ohms,you can also read volts. Open the radio again and look for DC volts on the rectifiers capacitors.They look like :cans", normally the color is blue. Check for positive dc v. against chassis ground. If no + tension,your rectifier or your secondary are open.

please my name is dele i have this BOSE radio/cd system model number is AWRC2G which transformer burnt out rightly, that the input is 240volts which output is the problem and in nigria. please i just want to know the output on each coloured wire of the secondary that has 8 wires output from the secondary (2 purple - brn = volt, 2 blue = volts, and 2 black - gray = volts. so that similar that i can use to work it.
thank you

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What probably happened when the power went out is that you had a power surge or SPIKE as well, either before or after power was lost and then restored.

This sometimes can happen just before the power trips at your substation that feeds your house, or else it can happen when the power comes back on.

There are safeguards that are suppose to be in place to prevent this from happening, but sometimes they fail as well.

If you are in a bad area that has frequent power outages I would suggest adding an appliance surge suppressor to your microwave - similar to those like they use on refrigerators.

If your microwave is a 110VAC unit and somehow 220VAC is crossed circuit wise (as in underground, etc) then the same thing can cause your present day problem as well. Happened to my neighbor once and the same thing happened to their Litton Microwave. They gave it to me free, as they were just going to throw it out anyway.

I was able to open it up and get the part # off the L.V. XMFR and ordered a new one for like $10 direct from the XFMR mfr after getting their factory phone #. Litton wanted $36 for their same identical part. $$$

When this power outage happens like it did to you then you get a surge of current that will overload the primary side of the LOW VOLTAGE Transformer (XMFR) and causes it to go open circuit in the secondary - as in - it makes a break inside the XFMR itself causing the Control Panel to go dead as well. Because this AC XFMR is a step down type that takes 110VAC and drops it down to say maybe 18-24VAC you can see why it wouldn't like 220VAC on the primary side - as then the secondary side would rise up to say 36-48VAC which is way too high for the DC rectified voltages that run the Control Panel logic circuits, etc.

Nothing will work at this point except maybe for the cooking chamber light - maybe? If the Low Voltage XFMR has a fuse in it's circuit that fuse can be blown. If there is no fuse for that circuit then the L.V. XFMR has to be replaced. Usually the XFMR part will cost anywhere from $18 to maybe $35 if you can get one.

If you know someone that is handy with a DVM (digital volt meter) perhaps they can OHM out the primary and secondary side of that L.V. XFMR for you as I firmly believe that is your only problem.

One thing you might check first though is if there is a Circuit Breaker (CB) on the back of the MW unit. If it has one chances are it may have tripped, and by pushing the popped button back in - your problem would be solved hopefully. IF it even has a CB.

Hope the info helps out?

Best regards,

Frank

PRIMARY means INPUT(from supply side)
SECONDARY means output( to load side)