Generator runs but no electric power doesnt run ac in rv or microwave

check with manufacturer -rv shop - or online search for owners manual / or info for your unit

Usually the generator will shut down if the ac is not present coming out of the generator. You stated that it still runs but no power on the output. Check your breakers first to make sure they are working properly. Depending on what board you have you can check to see if ac is present getting back to the board as well. If your board does not have this then they are using the frequency as a safety disconnect feature. That would lead you back to the regulator or loose connection or..dirty slip rings if this unit has brushes.

What size & type generator? On start up the AC unit can draw as much as 17-18 amps in some cases, and if your generator is not designed for a quick draw like that it will die.

Not knowing the specifics of either my experience has been that if you use your gas water heater instead of electric 20 amps will generally get you buy, your AC probably only pulls 14 15 amp when starting up other facilities are very low amperage so try just not running both AC and Water Heater and Microwave at the same time.

Hello, I have the same exact generator, 2400 Yamaha. It works fine for my Ac, and then some. After it first kicks on, is the biggest surge. Then I have even after ac is running, I have had tv on and even used microwave. But as far as running you ac on your rv , not problem. I do it all the time. Mine is ulta quite, and 8 to ten hours run time on about a gallon of fuel. Mike

PLEASE CHECK THE POWER CONSUMPTION ON THE APPLIANCE i think it might be a lot more than ur gen set can supply

On average, a rooftop unit with pull 14 to 16 amps depending on the ambient temperature. I am not sure how big your microwave is but we will assume 1000W. The TV really doesn't pull that much. So, you have 16 amps at the Air Conditioner, 8.5 Amps at the Microwave and we will say 5 amps at the TV. Lets not forgot the converter for the coach which pulls 3 to 5 amps on average. Add all of these amps together and you have 34.5 on the high end. To get the size Wattage of generator needed to run 34.5 amps, you take 34.5 and multiple it by the electricity source, in your case 120V. That means that you have 4,140 Watts of power to be used max. I think that with a 4000 watt generator, you will be fine. You may be able to go a little bit smaller if your microwave is not that large. To find the amps of the microwave that you have, take the wattage and divide it by 120. That will give the average amps that it pulls while running.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

could be a bad transfer switch.

your micrwave may run fine at 110 but it draws more power than the generator is putting out when the magnetron kicks on which is the part that creates the microwave causing the food to heat up. In other words the amperage is too low for the microwave. Amperage is what matters not voltage.

You should not have to switch between battery and generator, unless you are trying to use an inverter as well. Batteries are 12vdc, typically run lighting, water pump, furnace, fridge controls. Generator powers ac, microwave, television, and anything else that plugs into a 120vac wall outlet. Inverter may also run select loads, and possibly dedicated wall outlets, but not AC, fridge, or microwave (usually).

Most RVs / Motorhomes now have automatic transfer switches that will switch between the generator, shorepower, and possibly an inverter. Your coach is made during an era of transition from manual transfer switch (in form of heavy duty electrical outlet near shore power cord) and the automatic transfer switch.

There is no specific place where a transfer switch or generator receptacle are mounted on an RV. There are no rules or regulations tha cover this as far as I know. Your RV may also have an EMS (Energy Management System) that will control the transfer switch as well. EMS panels are typically located above the refrigerator or above driver / passenger seats in overhead compartment.