Need timer wiring diagram for direct drive whirpool washer

Hi joe,

Those wires are and need to mount on a capacitor that should be mounted to the side of the washer motor. This capacitor is a start capacitor for the motor, without it this will not run or start. Now plug those wire into the capacitor and if its a good capacitor it will run. Good Luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

see this causes and fix it. God bless you

Lid Switch
This is the most common reason for the washer not spinning or agitating. This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the Lid Switch.

Timer
To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the Timer, if it does the timer is not the problem.

Motor
To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere.

Belt
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.

Motor Coupler
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of the Motor Coupler.

Transmission
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

Hello,
In a packet on the back side of the diagonal panel between the washer top and control panel,is the wiring diagram. It will show you where the wires come from to power the pump. I am not absoluty sure but believe its directly from the timer to the pump. So find what wire is the hot one and check continuty on it from the timer to the pump,and the neutral wire check that for continuty as well. The hot wire is exclusive for the pump circuit,the neutral wire ties into all neutral wires so continuty can be checked on it from any neutral wire to the neutral for the pump.If continuty on both wires,Replace the timer. The washer timer part number is 131758600 it could be picked up from your local appliance parts store,or online at;
repairclinic.com
searspartsdirect.com
apwagner.com
apdepot.com
midwestapplianceparts.com

Gene..OldTech2332

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Top load, direct drive Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a reversing motor.

It turns one way for agitating and reverses for draining and spinning.

It sounds as if either the motor is shot or one of the connectors is bad.

As a place to start, see the Whirlpool Service manuasl (with wiring diagrams) for their top load, direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.25842400

Look at the control panel diagram and you should get a good idea of how the timer mounts.

With the basic top load, direct drive washer you should only need to remove the two screws located under the Trim End Caps to get access to the timer.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This appears to be a timer / timer motor problem.

I'd alto look at the Whirlpool / Kenmore direct drive installation and maintenance manual for testing the timer.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Leaks water...check the pump first. The fill valve and hoses may be the next step. See how to take apart info. With the use of plastic drain hoses on many machines today, this has become a common leak trouble maker. The drain hose can rub the wall or a pipe and this will rub a hole in the drain hose.
 

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youll be able to uninstall all the knobs(screws behind the knobs), then take off the switches from the panel without really needing to take wires off the individual switch.the timer is a tricky knob to remove (there is directions printed in the palstic housing of the timer back itself explaining how to release the kob

HI Most washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. For this reason, any repairs to the timer should be made by a professional service person. However, there are a couple of checks you can make when you suspect the timer is faulty -- you may be able to install a new timer yourself.

Step 1: Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs and the panel that covers the controls. This may be a front panel, or access may be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the washer. If the wires are loose or disconnected, try pushing them into position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use long-nosed pliers to avoid breaking the wire connections -- never pull a wire by hand.

Step 2: To test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 3: To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into place.

Hi, There are several causes for this problem. Check these.

• No spin at all: the lid switch is fried. You test it with your meter.                                  There will be a motor which spins the washing machine's drum.                                              If you don't hear the motor running, then its the lid switch which would have been broken and needs replacing. A bad lid switch wil interrupt the spin cycle.

• In the Whirlpool washers, a common problem is that the lid plunger stops making contact with the lid switch. Use a pen to manually press the lid switch actuator (with the lid up, duh). If the washer spins...well, you know the rest.

• Older (belt-drive) Whirlpool: the spin solenoid is burned out or has cut wires. Ohm out that solenoid (20-30 ohms) and test with a test cord. Make sure the wires are intact by giving them a little tug. If this is OK, you may need to adjust/replace the basket drive.

• Newer (direct-drive) Whirlpool:  worn out direct drive coupler.

• The drive belt has had it. Look for excessive glazing on the sides of the belt or cracks in the power side of the belt. On Maytags, replace the belt set if they look glazed or shiny on the sides even though the belts may look OK otherwise. Belts on other brands will be more obviously bad. Here's how to replace the belt on older Whirlpool/Kenmore belt-drive washers, and on old-style GE/Hotpoint washers.

• Timer is fried. On older timers, it's sometimes possible to run an external jumper to replace the bad internal contacts. Usually, however, the entire timer must be replaced. The only way to confirm is to use your meter and wiring diagram.

These are the causes that have to be inspected. You can also visit this site www.whirlpool.com/custserv/index.jsp

Hope my info solves your problem, Thanx for using fixya, Good luck.