One of the burners does not work. Is it possible

Based on your question that the right front burner of your Schott Ceran glass cooktop is not working, here are some steps you can try to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the power supply: Make sure that the cooktop is properly connected to a power source and that the circuit breaker or fuse is not tripped. If the circuit breaker is tripped, reset it and try turning on the burner again.
2. Check the burner control switch: The burner control switch regulates the power to the burner. Check if the switch is loose, damaged, or defective. You can test the switch for continuity with a multimeter to determine if it is functioning properly.
3. Check the heating element: If the burner control switch is not the problem, the issue may be with the heating element. Check the element for visible damage, such as cracks, burn marks, or discoloration. If you see any damage, the element may need to be replaced.
4. Check the wiring: Check the wiring connections between the burner control switch and the heating element. If any of the connections are loose or damaged, this may be causing the issue.
5. Test with a different burner: If you have multiple burners on your cooktop, try testing the right front burner with a different control switch or heating element to determine if the issue is with the burner or another component.

The above are basic means of troubleshooting, the following below will add more to the solution above;

Check the control board: The control board is responsible for sending power to the heating elements. Check the control board for any signs of damage or burning, and test it for continuity using a multimeter.

Check the thermal fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety device that cuts off power to the heating elements if they overheat. Check the thermal fuse with a multimeter to see if it has blown. If it has, you will need to replace it.

Check the switch relay: The switch relay is another component that can cause the burner to not work. Check the switch relay for any signs of damage, and test it with a multimeter to see if it is functioning properly.

Test the voltage supply: Use a multimeter to test the voltage supply to the burner. If there is no voltage, this could indicate a problem with the control board, thermal fuse, or switch relay.

Check for loose connections: Inspect all wiring connections between the control board, switch relay, and heating element. Loose or damaged connections can cause the burner to not work.

Based on the symptoms described, it is possible that the issue lies with the ceramic element that the burners connect to at the back of the burner unit. This could be causing a short circuit between the two burners, which is preventing the large burner from being adjusted lower when both burners are on.

It is also possible that there is an issue with the wiring or connections between the two burners, which is causing a similar short circuit. However, given that the smaller burner appears to be working fine, this seems less likely.

Another potential cause of this issue could be a problem with the control board or another component of the stove's electrical system. However, given that replacing the infinite switch and receptacle for the large burner did not resolve the issue, it seems less likely that this is the root cause.

In order to determine the exact cause of this issue, it may be necessary to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and repair the stove.

Oven comes on and off intermittentlyor heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

OrWhy does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bakeignitor. Replacing theignitorusually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that theignitoris the problem before replacing it.Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

OrOven safety valve needs to be checkedwith multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSOTest the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreakerpanelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meterto the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!











Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature controlis usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.
The oven sensor:works with the oven control board to regulate the oven temperature. If there is an oven temperature problem, this sensor might be defective. The sensor can be tested by using an ohm meter. As temperature rises, the resistance measurement also rises. The manufacturer of the oven sensor determines the correct resistance,Oven temperature problems can be caused by other things,but this is one of the common causes.
Beware on some models nowmost of these ovens they are electronic and they are integrated into the control itself
some different sensor ohm readings at room temp. approx 16 ohms at room temperature and at 350?F it is 29~33 ohms.
Read more:
http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/5xrsf-ge-xl44-gas-oven-oven-ignites-even-when-oven.html#ixzz3YdtiPcn8
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

SEE PICS Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage
ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at the fusebox orbreaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test the resistance of the heating element using a multi meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continui

Yes it sounds as if you have control knob probs ..did it work b4 or is it a new cooker ?

you have a bad potentiometer ( Fancy Word For Control Knob ) The connections in the control knob is possibly burnt out or not making complete connection.

Good Luck

Dave

Sounds like you need to replace the burner control (part # WB23K5053)

Replace the surface element switch.

the infamous "custom control kit" its an electronic board that only control that one precision temp burner all other elements ar regular switches, if thats the one where the sound os coming form replace the control. .nothing else to do

The switch under that knob is bad.  It's called an infinite switch.  As far as the elements go, first thing to check is for proper voltage (220) to the cooktop.  Let me know what you find.