IT IS A MHW5630HW USED IT YESTERDAY FOR THE FIRST TIME WON'T WORK TODAY. POWER BUTTON LIGHTS BUTG NO OTHER B UTTONS DO, AND THEY WON'T FUNCTION. IS THERE ANYTHING i CAN DO?
SOURCE: Control Locked
this is a child safety lock feature to keep them from turning on and off the machine, you must hold down the cycle end button for 3 seconds to unlock the machine, you will find these instructions labeled right on the machine and in your owners manual.
SOURCE: Maytag front loader washer--door won't open but lock light off
Open the soap dispenser. Look down in front of the fabric softener dish.
You should see a yellowy-green plastic cord (like weed-whacker line). Pull it.
The door should open.
If you don't see the cord, remove the four screws that hold the dispenser lid in place to find it. Just don't lose it when you put the cover back on.
SOURCE: maytag front loader washer, control lock light is
You have to hold down the lock button on the control panel for 3or 4 seconds it should turn off
SOURCE: I have front loader MFW9700 Maytag washer. Water
Check the door seal for tears and the drain boot from tub to drain boot for anything that might have put a hole in like a piece of metal from an under wire bra which front loads will spin so fast that the wires come out of the bras.
SOURCE: My cuisinart blender doesn't work.
Pretty much that is what happened to me. I found that the motor has 2 "thermal cut-offs" (SEFUSE 113oC). If the motor heats up even a little, these babies kill your blender. They are thermal fuses. Once they blow, it is over until they are replaced. To fix this, the motor must be removed. The spline gismo on top of the blender unscrews with reversed threads. I suggest unsoldering the lead wires from the power supply board, and replacing when done. The cut-offs are inside the taped on white cloth insulation on the top of the field magnets near the brush assemblies on both sides. I replaced them (both were blown) with 2 of NTE8242 ($1.60 each, 240oC 15A). These are way too hot, but that is what I had on hand. I thought that the electronics were defective at first, and I replaced the entire board assembly with a small/cheap ceiling fan wall switch /speed controller from the hardware store (600W 5A) for $10. The root cause of all of this is that the motor fan is not working. The airflow is blocked by base. I put small extenders on the feet and now there is much more airflow. Only time will tell if this is an effective fix. It appears to me that the device my have started out "nice" when it was designed, but cheapened (probably by middle managers taking bonuses for "improving" the design) many times. The fuse is gone, the case is plastic, etc. It really makes me wonder how it got past UL approval.
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