How to work on other side of chain - Garden

Remove the 2 side casing nuts.
Slacken off the chain tension screw. (it may be attached to the side casing).
Remove bar and chain.
Replace chain on the bar and reposition back and the saw.
Put the side casing back on and adjust the chain tension for the new chain.
Tighten up the 2 side casing nutsonce bar is in working position.

Pmorrow1975:

When you can't adjust the chain any more, the chain has stretched so far that you will need to remove the chain and replace it, or the tensioner pawl has slipped out of the bar and the chain tensioner will not work. Let's start with the easier solution. First lay the saw on it's left side so the bar is up and you can see two studs with nuts on them. These nuts hold the bar and side cover on. Remove the nuts (a 1/2 inch socket is what you need) and remove the side cover. The side cover holds the chain tensioner. Check to see that when you put the side cover on, the pawl on the chain tensioner fits into the small hole in the bar. If it does not, adjust the chain tensioner screw (below one of the chain retention stud holes in the side cover) until the pawl fits into the hole in the bar, and reinstall the side plate. You'll be able to adjust the chain tension now. If the chain tension is still too loose when the back of the pawl (visible through the slot in the side cover) is at the back of the slot, it is time to replace the chain as it has stretched beyond adjustment parameters.

Hope this helped.

all chain saws have a sprocket that the chain runs on this sprocket is what make the chain rotate on the bar. the bar is the long part that sticks out in front of the motor. you must remove the side cover of the saw to access the sprocket region of the saw. be sure the saw is unplugged and then remove side cover the bar is usually held in place by a couple of bolts. on gas saws these two bolts also hold the side cover in place and must be removed to replace the bar and chain. once you have removed the side cover look for bolts holding the bar in place. if you only want to change the chain then you may be able to only loosen the bolts or screws holding the bar in place.there should be a screw to adjust the bar forwards and backwards. this screw put tension on the chain so when you put a new chain on turning the screw will proberly tension the chain /do not overtighten the chain.
also be sure you put the new chain and blade on the same as the old one that comes off trying to cut with a chain that is on backward does not work. last note if you are replacing the blade because the old one is dull take the saw to a saw shop they can sharpen the exsisting chain and save you money.

If you want to change the chain bar you need to remove the cover on the side the bar enters. This is usually done with with a 1/2 inch wrench or if the tool-less model, completely loosen the hand nut on the side until it comes off. You will be able to how the bar is installed under this cover. Make note of the direction of the chain teeth to insure you put the chain back on correctly.

It is better to wear gloves when working with the chains also. Install the new bar and reinstall the side cover and retaining nuts. Snug up the nuts but not tight, adjust the chain with the chain adjusting screw or thumb-wheel for about a dime's width play between the bottom of the chain bar and the chain midway along the bar.

Loosen the nuts that clamp the bar in place.Loosen the bar tensioning screw. Remove the side plate over the drive sprocket. Pull the bar off. Clean the bar, the oil ports in it and make sure the edges of the bar where the chain rides are flat and square to the sides of the bar. Clean all around the drive sprocket. Put the new chain on with the teeth on the bottom pointing toward the saw. Reinstall the bar on the tensioning screw and replace the side cover and just snug it up slightly, Adjust the chain tension to where you can just pull the chain around by hand and then tighten the side plate nuts. After using the chain for 10 or 15 minutes readjust the chain tension. Check to make sure the bar oiler is working or this chain will burn up real fast. Hope this helps you.

The bar and chain are running without oil. Take the side cover off where the chain is driven from and remove the bar and chain. Use compressed air to blow all debris from the area. Start the engine and watch for oil coming out of a small port near the clutch assembly. If oil passes (good!), then clean ( at the drive end of the bar) the two smaller holes and their passages into the track which the chain runs in. They are likely to be filled with sawdust and other debris. Clean the entire chain track around the whole bar. Use engine oil in the two small holes at the bar tip to lubricate the sprocket bearing. Back off the chain adjuster screw somewhat and reassemble everything--put the bar on first and then work the chain on, then the side cover--work the bar fore and aft to allow the small tang of the adjuster to drop into it's hole at the bar rear. Make sure that the cutting side of the teeth are pointing toward the engine on the bar bottom. With the cover on and mounting nuts slightly loose, adjust the chain tightness so that the chain doesn't droop away from the bar bottom, but still allows the chain to be moved by hand--remember to lightly oil the chain first with engine oil. Tighten the bar mounting nut(s) and recheck the chain for droop. Make sure that you have bar oil in the tank, then start the engine and hold the bar tip near a piece of paper or cardboard. After running for a little while, the tip should throw off a very thin line of oil. Next, if you have a vise, put the bar center into the vise so that the chain is free to turn. At this point you need to file each tooth to sharpness at 30 degrees from perpendicular to the bar and 10 degrees below chain horizontal. Make sure you use the correct size file for your chain. Work your way through one side, then work the other side--be consistent with cutting angles during filing as uneven filing will result in the chain trying to cut at unintended angles.
If no oil came out of the engine when running the bar-off test, make sure there is ample oil in the tank, then you have either a plugged inlet filter in the tank, tubing kink/breakage, or a defective oil pump. You must be sure that oil is being pumped from the chain drive area before putting things together. Hope this helps!

remove side cover of chain, loosen bar nut, there is a screw on the front of the saw under the sawdust and oil. Turning it one way tightens the bar. The other way loosens it. Loosen it til you get the chain back on, then tighten it til there is about 1/2" slack in the bottom of the chain between it and the bar. By the By, semi tighten the nut before any major adjustments, then adjust the chain to above and tighten bar nut. You should be set to go. BE CAREFUL! Dont forget personal safety!!!

the flywheel does not have a brake,the clutch side has the break.if you have the chain side cover off the brake is no longer on the clutch drum.the fly wheel is on the oppiset side (starter rewind).take the starter rewind off and see if the motor will turn.if hte motor turns the problem is in the clutch side.if it doesn't the problem is in the flywheel side.the ignition coil has been known to loosen up.the screws streitch out from heat.check the air gap between the flywheel magnets and the ignition coil.should be .10 to .12 inches.if problem is on clutch side check to make sure that the springs are on between the clutch discs.they have been known to break and that does not let the chain spin on bar.any questions get me an e mail