Power surge. tripped breaker, reset breaker, now have power but can't use microwave. press any button and the letter L appears
That means the child lock is on
It may be a power glitch. I would suggest unplugging the power for several seconds and then plugging it back in. Hopefully it will work.
L is for locked.
https://www.samsung.com/in/support/home-appliances/using-the-child-lock-features-in-samsung-microwave-oven/
Using the child lock features in Samsung Microwave...
FAQ for Samsung Cooking Find more...
SOURCE: Microwave quit working
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
It may also be the high-voltage rectifier diode.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
Feel free to post your brand and model so we might be able to give me specific info.
SOURCE: No power from Whirlpool.
The problem was a defective switch. There are 3 switches on mine. 1 on the top door latch, and 2 on the bottom. one of the switches on the bottom connected the power and neutral together, unless it was activated at the same time as the other 2, causing the breaker to trip or the internal fuse to blow. When unhooking the wire going from this switch to the other switch, everything works great now. Though I still need to replace the switch.
And for Basic 1. Yes my microwave did have a fuse in it it's ceramic, I got a pack of them at Radio Shack 4 for 3$ 250V 20 Amp. There should be a wiring diagram inside the microwave, mine was inside a black bag, so it may be hard to see.
Mine was up top next to the fuse behind the Plastic Grill and then a small metal grill. Some are behind the control panel, to fix this remove the screw at the top and then slide the control panel up and it should unhinge.
SOURCE: Kenmore Microwave turned off, not back on
Both of you have suffered at least a failed fuse and these are nearly always inside the housing.
Sometimes the fuse (which are calibrated pieces of special wire) will fail from metal fatigue but it can also mean that either the heavy current, high voltage rectifier that produces the magnetron voltage or the magnetron itself has failed.
Some units have separate fuses for the control and display electronics and another, very high current (~30 Amp) fuse for the magnetron circuit.
Do not attempt to open the unit unless it is, and has been, unplugged for an hour or more.
Gaining access is generally not difficult and either the back panel or top can be removed with a half-dozen screws.
The fuses may not always look the same but the most common is a ceramic case with metal ends and it might be pushed into a simple fixture that snaps over the metal ends.
If you do not own a simple digital multimeter, I recommend buying one. They are available from various sources; electronics and auto parts stores will have them for under $20 US or if in the US, check your local directory for Harbor Freight outlets. I have bought several for $3.00 there and scattered them around vehicles and the normal junk drawer in the kitchen.
Even the simplest of these will have several basic ranges and the resistance range is the one used for checking that fuse.
Remove the fuse from its clips and measure it between the metal caps on the low range (often 200 Ohms).
If the display does not change, the fuse is blown; if it shows something in tenths or at least below 10 Ohms, it's OK.
If you care to delve further into your microwave at all instead of replacing it (they have gotten almost too cheap to repair), comment back here again and I will try to guide you further.
SOURCE: microwave won't heat
Sorry my Clarification Request came out as a single blob of a paragraph.
That's not how I typed it. I never write that way!
So I've pasted it here, but as a solution.
Magnetrons generally should last about 2000 hours, but several factors can shorten that.
If it's not OVER ten years old (from the purchase date or the date on the tag inside the unit) then the magnetron is still under warranty.
From the owner's manual:
"For the second through the tenth year from the date of original purchase
"The magnetron tube, if the magnetron tube fails due to a defect in
materials or workmanship. During this nine-year limited warranty, you
will be responsible for any labor or in-home service costs.
"For the above limited warranty: To avoid any trip charges, you must take the microwave oven to a
General Electric Customer Care® servicer and pick it up following service. In-home service is also
available, but you must pay for the service technician’s travel costs to your home."
GE Customer Service is here, and you can verify the warranty status and find your nearest authorized servicer.
If you're sure the magnetron's bad, it's still under warranty, and you or a friend are handy, they will
send you the magnetron to do it yourself. Call them at 888-239-6832.
Be persistent. You may have to speak with a supervisor.
It does sound like the magnetron overheated and the magnetron's thermostat opened until it cooled down.
An overheating magnetron can be due to:
Since yours is a counter top model, there are less of those factors to worry about.
When you hit Start to
microwave, do the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable all come on?
Any unusual noises? Is
it louder or quieter than usual?
We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.
You can find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts if needed by entering your full
model number from the tag on the oven here.
Let us know what you find out or decide.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: microwave trips circuit breaker when plugged in
The circuit is probably a 20Amp circuit (see the number stamped on the circuit breaker switch). Most likely, it is the same circuit as the refrigerator, crock pot, window A/C unit, etc....
Also, if you are using an extension cord or a power strip or a surge protector. Those may not have a high enough power rating.
One other possibility (not likely) is that the circuit breaker is a 15Amp and the microwave is 1500 watts.
What else is cut off when the circuit breaker is tripped?
Solution is to use a different outlet for the microwave, or turn off any other applicance in the same circuit (except the refrigerator, of course).
Hope this helps!
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